SPI User Forums http://www.spiuserforum.com/ SPI user forum Discussion board for users of SPI paints and related autobody work. en Sun, 20 May 2012 13:36:00 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.spiuserforum.com/images/misc/rss.png SPI User Forums http://www.spiuserforum.com/ Fill with resin or 870?? http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1636-Fill-with-resin-or-870&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 19:51:06 GMT I have about 50 holes through this car im doing I have to fill where 1/8" holes were drilled. The parts are hand laid glass. These holes are covered on the backside with resin and mat so they dont do all the way through. What would me my best option from the top?

1. fill with resin and sand flat? They arent very deap.

2. Epoxy the door and fill with 870?



]]> orangejuiced86 http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1636-Fill-with-resin-or-870 yamaha mini enduro tank http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1635-yamaha-mini-enduro-tank&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 17:12:10 GMT here is a tank i fixed for a friend of mine. i had to push all the damage out from inside the filler hole. i had to place a pry bar in my vise ,fish... here is a tank i fixed for a friend of mine. i had to push all the damage out from inside the filler hole. i had to place a pry bar in my vise ,fish it through the tank filler hole , and hammer it out . this is a very small tank that cant hold much more than a gallon...if that. i will spi epoxy prime /fill repaint/ stripe to match factory.
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]]> Anything else you’re Proud of ryan1 http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1635-yamaha-mini-enduro-tank Put it in the sun for a couple days ? http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1634-Put-it-in-the-sun-for-a-couple-days&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 12:01:08 GMT Is this done to put heat in the panels, or is it to subject it to UV?

What do you do when it is winter & the skys are gray for weeks on end and the outside temp never gets above 20f?

Thx :) ]]> Tech Tips Senile Old Fart http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1634-Put-it-in-the-sun-for-a-couple-days Looking for opinions on my DeVilbiss FLG-3 gun http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1633-Looking-for-opinions-on-my-DeVilbiss-FLG-3-gun&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 02:58:03 GMT I have this FLG-3 that has the 1.3 1.5 and 1.8 tips. What are your guys thoughts on spraying the epoxy and 2k primers with this gun? I know most of... I have this FLG-3 that has the 1.3 1.5 and 1.8 tips. What are your guys thoughts on spraying the epoxy and 2k primers with this gun? I know most of you guys prefer the Iwata or the Sata guns based on the threads I have read so far. But if I can use this gun for the primers it would save me a few bucks for now. ]]> Spraying / Gun Cleaning Desertdave http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1633-Looking-for-opinions-on-my-DeVilbiss-FLG-3-gun Looking to buy my first good gun... http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1632-Looking-to-buy-my-first-good-gun...&goto=newpost Fri, 18 May 2012 14:41:26 GMT I've been wrenching cars for nearly 40 years and have stayed away from the paint side for the most part until now. Here lately, I have been learning all I can about automotive painting (thanks to you folks). I have bought a few cheap little guns (Kobalt, DeVilbess, HF) to practice with and get the feel for this craft and have come to a point where I think its time for me to get a couple of good guns that I can grow into. What would you folks suggest? Sata, Itwana...? Any direction would be much appreciated. Best, Don ]]> Spraying / Gun Cleaning i8tokyo http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1632-Looking-to-buy-my-first-good-gun... Epoxy over Picklexed and blasted steel http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1631-Epoxy-over-Picklexed-and-blasted-steel&goto=newpost Fri, 18 May 2012 14:22:20 GMT Continuing form the other thread, probably better it is on it's own anyway.

In the year 2001 (I kid you not) I started on my current project. At the time, I didn't know what I didn't know. I had the car (alkaline) dipped and set to doing the metal work. The dipper said they applied a "phosphating" solution, and that the car wouldn't flash rust for at least a short while.

Like all projects, the beginning went fast, my plan was to get the metal work done in 3-6 months (lol), send it to a body shop and have it primed and painted. Then I started to loose steam, ran into several times the amount of damage I thought I had. About 6 months into it, the car started to turn red.

To keep flash rust at bay, I used Picklex 20. I had no idea that it would lead to primer issues down the road, i just wanted to keep the car from rusting further while I worked on it.

About a year or two ago, I found my way to the hottrodders board and found that there is a downside to chemical rust treating.

The good points:
1) according to to the other thread, picklex is a weak phosphoric acid solution, less than 10%,
2) I haven't put any on in a long time
3) Most of the metal that was picklexed was removed anyway
4) Most new metal was ecoated and never picklexed
5) Of all the picklexed metal still left, the only exterior pieces that will still be on the car is the decklid and the top of the cowl, and the A pillars.
6) I sand blasted the most areas that were picklexed prior to priming. The areas I didn't blast were hit with a 3" 80 grit roloc disc. (I haven't done anything to the decklid or cowl top yet.)

Car has been primed on with SPI inside and out The bottom of the car, and engine compartment I plan to leave in SPI black, when I get it all smoothed out, a last coat sprayed with some reducer in it to knock down some of the sheen.

The inside of the car probably won't get top coated, except inside the trunk, and the dash section that shows.

Before I go any further, I think I need to test to make sure the acid was sufficiently neutralized. How is to best to do that? Should I spray some urethane top coat on the bottom, roll it over on the rotisserie and leave it in the sun to see what happens?

The bottom needs filler in a lot of places, should I purposely sand through, put some filler on, then later grind through it to make sure it is cured?

Should I put filler blobs on top of the epoxy in various random places to see if they stick?

Any help I appreciated. I actually had trouble sleeping over this last night. After a decade of work, I certainly don't want my paint to fall off. ]]> Primers jtfx6552 http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1631-Epoxy-over-Picklexed-and-blasted-steel ***Moving threads*** EVERYONE MUST READ http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1630-***Moving-threads***-EVERYONE-MUST-READ&goto=newpost Fri, 18 May 2012 11:43:21 GMT I will be moving threads to Tech Tips. If you think a Thread should be moved let me know. We need to start using Tech Tips to keep double and triple... I will be moving threads to Tech Tips. If you think a Thread should be moved let me know. We need to start using Tech Tips to keep double and triple post down. The more bandwidth we use the slower our site will run. I'm doing my best to keep everything running as smooth and fast as possible. Help me to keep improving the site. PM me any ideas you may have. I'm listening......

Thanks,
Dub ]]> SPI Updates Dub http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1630-***Moving-threads***-EVERYONE-MUST-READ Adhesion problem perhaps? http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1628-Adhesion-problem-perhaps&goto=newpost Wed, 16 May 2012 21:50:40 GMT Hello first let me state the specs. Gallon of white epoxy and activator purchased in October 2011. Used some at he time then in winter months stored... Hello first let me state the specs. Gallon of white epoxy and activator purchased in October 2011. Used some at he time then in winter months stored in 65 degree basement until this past Sunday.
I sanded bare metal and existing epoxy with 180 DA. Only shot half of the door and forward edge of quarter so not a big deal to remove.

I cleaned with waterborne to the "T" as you would waited at least an hour in the sun mixed epoxy 1:1 tacked and sprayed a light first coat 15 min flash then a medium coat with another 15 min flash and finally a last medium to heavy coat just getting anything I missed. Metal temp was in the 70's. Today about 3 days later I went to do some filler work around the door edges and noticed that if I take my fingernail I can scrape the epoxy off. Not easily. Kinda like if you were taking the price tag off of a picture frame.

Now is this because maybe my hardener went bad?? It is a honey color. Don't remember color when I first bought it

Or is it still curing and give it some more time??

Thanks guys ]]> Primers Steves69LS3 http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1628-Adhesion-problem-perhaps Would you do this ? http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1627-Would-you-do-this&goto=newpost Wed, 16 May 2012 19:53:07 GMT I have a nice media blaster and I want to walnut shell my fenders, hood and deck lid. I do have SPI expoxy but I am not set up to spray where I am... I have a nice media blaster and I want to walnut shell my fenders, hood and deck lid.

I do have SPI expoxy but I am not set up to spray where I am at.

Is there an SPI product that I can use to cover the bare metal for the time being till I do some dent repair etc that will keep me from the elements till I am ready to spray prime ?

It may take weeks for all this to happen. With work, life etc taking up my time.

Any ideas ?

Or should I roll a mixture of SPI expoxy on since I can't spray in my basement ?

thanks in advance ]]> Primers stanhope http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1627-Would-you-do-this <![CDATA[How much for a "good" gun?]]> http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1626-How-much-for-a-quot-good-quot-gun&goto=newpost Mon, 14 May 2012 20:14:48 GMT Hi,
I don't paint for a living. Just a hobbiest. Once I finish painting my old motorhome, I may not paint again. I do want good results, however, and hence my question. I am currently using an FX3000 for base and clear, and was wondering if buying something like an LPH400 or Tekna would be worth it for someone like me. If so, what caps would be the minimum requirement? I realize that the gun doesn't make the painter, but would a better gun help an amateur?

I have a true 3 hp compressor (220v) with the 25 gal tank connected to the tank of a second 25 gal compressor and never had a problem being starved for air, as I am only doing one panel at a time. I am (satisfactorily) shooting a lot of silver metallic, and some solid base.
My experience has been with Chromabase and Prospray 3.5, along with SPI primers and clears. I would really appreciate your feedback. ]]> Tools inspectorbob http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1626-How-much-for-a-quot-good-quot-gun Super basic DIY air setup http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1625-Super-basic-DIY-air-setup&goto=newpost Mon, 14 May 2012 04:00:42 GMT First I want to add some context as to why I am going with a sub-optimal setup :) One concession I made on the house my wife and I bought recently... First I want to add some context as to why I am going with a sub-optimal setup :) One concession I made on the house my wife and I bought recently was that I would do without a garage (original owners converted the garage in to a studio) for a year or two and then build a nice detached setup once we got some other things out of the way. So I am working on my poor Mustang in an enclosed carport. Basically a 2 car garage with 3 sides.

I think the obvious solution would be, don't do anything until the 30x30 mancave is done. But I can't do that (well I'd be bored out of my mind) and have been stripping the car down. I don't want to do anything elaborate, but I have about 80% of the exterior down to the bare metal and have a few items to fix then I'd like to simply shoot some black epoxy on the car and call it done until a proper workspace is available.

My little Craftsman compressor is at least 10 years old, I think it's the 5HP 30Gal (~6CFM) that every wannabe has :) Once I get all the metal ready I was planning on shooting a fender at a time, then decklid, each quarter, doors, the roof, then finally the hood and any other small parts. From my reading if I split it up like that the compressor might keep up, is that a true assumption?

Also I have, at the moment, this for a filter http://www.harborfreight.com/industr...tor-68247.html. If you guys have stopped laughing I was then going to build something like this http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...96#post1983296 as posted in another thread.

Will those items give me enough dry air to shoot epoxy? Or am I just going to be wasting money? I was going to pick up some new hoses as well. Like I said this is just to protect the metal until I can get a proper work area. ]]> Tools Raymond_B http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1625-Super-basic-DIY-air-setup Help selecting epoxy primer for first project? http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1624-Help-selecting-epoxy-primer-for-first-project&goto=newpost Mon, 14 May 2012 02:36:41 GMT Hi all, new guy with a project car. I'm doing a frame-on resto on a '54 Bel-Air. This is my first full resto. I'm stripping and doing metal work on the car one section at a time. I need an epoxy to go over the bare metal that's been prepared with Picklex-20 metal prep.

Does SPI make an epoxy primer that's compatible with Picklex? The car will be in epoxy in an enclosed garage as work progresses. So I need an epoxy that can be sprayed and left alone as I work my way around the car. I plan on using some sort of urethane paint system, likely BC/CC.

Thanks, Rob ]]> Primers chiphead http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1624-Help-selecting-epoxy-primer-for-first-project First time using SPI epoxy http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1623-First-time-using-SPI-epoxy&goto=newpost Sun, 13 May 2012 23:39:09 GMT Hi everyone I'm new to this site and new to using SPI products.Just thought I'd share this with everyone.The epoxy is great stuff, sprays great and I love the color.I'll be using more of there products.



]]> General SPI Information SLONG1958 http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1623-First-time-using-SPI-epoxy User firiendly basecoat http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1622-User-firiendly-basecoat&goto=newpost Sun, 13 May 2012 20:09:58 GMT Since this is my first time painting a car (85 Trans am), I was advised to stick with a solid color. The problem is that I can't find a good color choice. I want a navy blue or grey, but without a metallic base, it lacks some personality. Is there a soild color in dark grey or navy blue that wouldn't look cheap? Or should I go with a metallic color? How much harder are the metallics to spray? ]]> Color Rob J http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1622-User-firiendly-basecoat Anchor pattern inside doors for epoxy http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1621-Anchor-pattern-inside-doors-for-epoxy&goto=newpost Sun, 13 May 2012 18:40:16 GMT What are you guys doing for epoxy adhesion on the inside of doors. I know most of you don't have to deal with this, because of having new doors with e coat or just painting the outer skin. I would like to get good adhesion on the back side also. ]]> Primers chevman http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1621-Anchor-pattern-inside-doors-for-epoxy