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Epoxy and cold shop

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Barry View Post
    You are right in your thinking about the sides but with most paint jobs the flat surfaces have a heavier build of paint and the sides usually case very few problems.
    Now fighting a cold garage for the do it at home people, if it is 50 degrees out and sunny, the bare metal will heat up to the 70's and higher real fast, then if gray epoxy is put back in the sun the metal may get in the 80's-90's to bake it off, black will get in the 90's or higher.
    Going back to a fresh paint job, a day or two in the sun before wet-sanding will really help a lot to level the paint.
    I have always believed one day in the sun is worth 7-10 days in a shop and I really believe the correct answer is more like 15-20 days, if full sun but just a theory on my end.
    So would the 24 hours at 70+ degrees not be required if set in the sun for a day?

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    • #17
      I don't know of any shops around herw that keep their shops at 75 degrees constant during the winter.

      I sprayed some epoxy 3 days ago. Kept the garage at 70-72. I shot some g2 poly last night and I'm sanding now. Everythong seems ok. But damn is this stressful.

      I know my boss will not put our shop above 65. So metal temps are obviously lower. I have a heated booth but I can't run it for 24 hours. Lol.

      - - - Updated - - -

      I don't know of any shops around herw that keep their shops at 75 degrees constant during the winter.

      I sprayed some epoxy 3 days ago. Kept the garage at 70-72. I shot some g2 poly last night and I'm sanding now. Everythong seems ok. But damn is this stressful.

      I know my boss will not put our shop above 65. So metal temps are obviously lower. I have a heated booth but I can't run it for 24 hours. Lol.

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      • #18
        This is just me, but I would just flat out not use epoxy in any conditions where the surface might fall below 60° for the first 7 days or so. You might get away with it a lot of times, but the one time you don't will leave you wishing you never had.

        Maybe this is why self-etch is still on the books at the majors... too many cold shops.

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        • #19
          This will probably be the last time I use epoxy in the winter months at home. Its just too much stress. I rarely take stuff down to metal. The limited stuff I do I'll just spot in with etch. I love the epoxy in the summer months though!

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          • #20
            Originally Posted by bmenard
            Well the shop has a furnace and I own two big salamanders, I guess I just don't understand how long the epoxy needs to be above a certain temp. The way it sounds is like it will all peel off if it isn't at 70 degrees for weeks or months after application. With all the dire warnings about cold, i am just a little apprehensive. If I knew to keep it at X temp for X long I could make it happen, as long as it wasn't weeks or something.

            Barry:
            Bring metal temp up to 70, shut off heat. Spray coat of epoxy and give 30 minutes flash, don't worry the temp is dropping at this time.
            When done and aired out, set heat to 70 (air) for 24 hours and you are good to go.
            Crash.....why do you leave it at 60° for 7 days?

            Can I spray epoxy and keep the metal 70° for 24 hours.......shut the heat down......let the shop get down to 40° for 5 days

            Come back and heat the shop back to 70° And spray high build because I'm in my 7 day window??

            You got me worried. I shut the heat off after 24 hours. I'm already in the blocking stage

            image by -glhxturbo-

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            • #21
              Originally posted by GLHX View Post
              Crash.....why do you leave it at 60° for 7 days?

              Can I spray epoxy and keep the metal 70° for 24 hours.......shut the heat down......let the shop get down to 40° for 5 days

              Come back and heat the shop back to 70° And spray high build because I'm in my 7 day window??

              You got me worried. I shut the heat off after 24 hours. I'm already in the blocking stage
              If it is sanding well, you are OK. I tend to be on the safe side because of some hard to explain things that have happened in the past.

              I'll have to refer you to Barry for specific temp recommendations. I personally think 40° is too low for any material that is in the curing stage, but that is just me. I view the heating expense as part of the cost of the job, and cheap insurance to know that my customers get a product that is properly cured.

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