Best Method For Repairing Door Shell.

Haven't been able to get out to the garage for a while Work has been very busy.
I did mange to get the dent puller welder.

The homemade vise grip panel separator looks like it could be useful. Thanks for posting.
 
After looking more closely I wanted to run a plan by yall to see if it might work.
The damaged area is about 5 to 6 inches long on the door edge that meets the fender.
It looks like i might be able to make a couple of relief cuts and unfold the edge. If i do that i just might be able to get a slapper in between the skin and shell.
I could probably cut a small slot for the slapper in the shell part so i am not wedging the slapper in, if that makes sence.
If that part goes as planned the skin will most likely be stretched and the original fold may be different. This is where i would need some technical assistance.
First things first, when i get some more time i will try my method and report back for further advise.

On another note i have a question. If memory serves me right, a shrinking hammer has a waffle head, that seems to my simple brain that it is stretching the metal. How does the waffle head shrink metal when used correctly? Or is my thinking all wrong?
 
Did you measure the overall length of the door at it's longest point and if so what is it? Curious how far off it is from original.

John
 
I have not measured the overall length yet. I will do that this evening.
I have the original door to measure from and make templates
 
Ok. This is where i am at.
I made a few cuts, unfolded the door skin and cut a spot in the door shell to access the damage from the inside.
Once i work the dent that is on the outer skin, i am sure the original crease will be out of whack, how would you guys with expierence approach this? Dent puller or hammer dolly?
Here are some pics i hope you can see.
 

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Ok. This is where i am at.
I made a few cuts, unfolded the door skin and cut a spot in the door shell to access the damage from the inside.
Once i work the dent that is on the outer skin, i am sure the original crease will be out of whack, how would you guys with expierence approach this? Dent puller or hammer dolly?
Here are some pics i hope you can see.


Slide a round rod, about 3/8 diameter if it will fit, into the opening and in as far as you can get it. Clamp in place where the crease should be. With a dolly against the back side, lightly tap the front side, slightly offset from the crease, alternating back and forth on opposite sides and work your way down until you meet up with good crease. Be sure to keep the face of the hammer flat on either side so the edge doesn’t leave any coin marks.
 
I manged to get the creases out mostly.
I cant quite get a dolly all the way in but can get the outer 3 inches.
As I dolly it the metal is stretched i believe. It is making it smoother but also raising the metal.
I am not sure if a dent puller is needed to raise the area a little which would raise the highs higher towards the end or if i can lower the highs.
Thoughts?

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If you are going down the path of pulling back the door skin, I'd just pull the whole skin by grinding the edge and replace it.
Problem solved, dent gone, takes a few hours.
Wish I could have acquired a left door skin for my 63 Sprint! It needed 4 patches and I also had welded up 7 holes for the trim I shaved. It warped something fierce. The passenger side was a considerable challenge as well. From what I learned on this site just recently would have been of great help back then.

After welding I used a homemade shrinking disc and a torch to get it straight as I could.
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In epoxy after filling and some poly primer prior to 2K
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Bottom line... I'm kind of cheap and impatient. I didn't want to wait to get one. Did a quick search and I can't find it right now. Basically I took a 3/16 steel disc that I had laying around and formed it in a press to make domed shaped. It didn't turn out so much spherical in shape but more of a cone. Kind of a cross between the two. Then I welded on a 5/8" hexnut. After that I trued it up in a lathe because it was somewhat out of balance. It works pretty good but had a tendency to gall up a bit. Not on the panel but on the disk. So from time to time I would shine it up with 320 Grit followed by a red Scotch-Brite.
 
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I try to improvise when I can but unfortunately I don't have a lathe to make a shrinking disk.
I am trying my hardest to get yall a decent picture but it's not showing up the way I would like.

I still have a raised area that I can't get down. Does this look stretched? Would a shrinking disk help me here if so? I have a set of torches but have never tried shrinking with. But I would with some encouragement and help.

Maybe yall can see what I am trying to explain from these latest pics.
 

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I try to improvise when I can but unfortunately I don't have a lathe to make a shrinking disk.
I am trying my hardest to get yall a decent picture but it's not showing up the way I would like.

I still have a raised area that I can't get down. Does this look stretched? Would a shrinking disk help me here if so? I have a set of torches but have never tried shrinking with. But I would with some encouragement and help.

Maybe yall can see what I am trying to explain from these latest pics.

You can buy a shrinking disk that fits on an angle grinder from Pro Shapers for around $70 dollars. Seeing as this would be your first attempt at shrinking, using your torch could be a disaster. You'll be chasing wraps in the panel. Personally I don't think a shrinking disk is going to do you any good. The metal looks to high to me for the shrinking disk to be effective. If you can tap the dent down and cover it with 1/16" of filler or less, I, nore anyone else, will look down on your repair.

If you want to learn how to shrink with a torch, get yourself a damage body panel and practice. You will understand what I mean about chasing warps. Shrinking is a delicate procedure, IMHO.
 
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I'll just throw this out there. With a dremel cut off wheel possibly you could make several cuts parallel to the top and bottom edges of the door just up to where the metal is flat. I think then you could flatten it out with a hammer and dolly. Then weld the slots same as you would doing a butt weld with a copper backer.

MJM sent me a link to a good video on open air welding just recently. I would still use a copper backer though.

 
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This looks like the door was damaged from the front either falling on the door edge, or something hit it while in shipment. In which case it’s not stretched. If that’s the case, shrinking will just make things much worse. Compare it to your other door and see if this door shell is pushed in.
Earlier in the thread It was suggested to measure the door length. Did you do that?
Repairing a dent by committee can be tough when none of us can run our hands over the part. Take the door outside and get pictures with good light. Lay a straight edge on it, determine the whole damage.
 
I'll just throw this out there. With a dremel cut off wheel possibly you could make several cuts parallel to the top and bottom edges of the door just up to where the metal is flat. I think then you could flatten it out with a hammer and dolly. Then weld the slots same as you would doing a butt weld with a copper backer.

MJM sent me a link to a good video on open air welding just recently. I would still use a copper backer though.



You found my cameo appearance.....
 
I think I have the damaged area under control now. I managed to hang the door and still have to fit fender to it but just from the mock up I am real close.
It was said earlier that if I can get the filler to 1/16" that would be acceptable.

I want to thank everyone who chimed in. I was nervous at first but from the advise from here I prevailed. Thank you.

Is there a preferred filler for skimming that sands easy?
 
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