Garage heat

Chevynutz

Chevynutz

Slow old timer
Looking at getting something close to this gas 50k BTU for the 2 car garage. Instructions quote unit should be 8' to bottom to pass inspection and i have 8' ceilings which would put the bottom around 5'8 1/2 '' from floor . Is this for ventilation or head clearance or ?


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Mr. Heater Big Maxx Natural Gas Garage/Workshop Unit Heater — 50,000 BTU, LP Conversion Kit, Model# F260550



Reg. $449.99

$382.50

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$382.50
 
See if this has a concentric vent kit available. I think it's a great option if you're going to paint in the garage.
 
That looks like a good heater with louvers to divert heat downward and some protection for the burners. Many don't have these, and if mounted too low--a person could slip, fall and make body contact with the heater. I've never seen that scenario--but I have seen materials being moved with a forklift run into the heater and break the gas connection loose when mounted low. It turned really dangerous fast with gas heavier than air moving low to the floor and spreading. Lucky for all--no problems.
 
If it's the unit instruction requirement and a local authority installation permit requiring inspection is not required or you live in a rural area and nobody cares,
Do as you wish. 6' tall people will need a bump hat when entering.....I'm sure it's a clearance thing.
Only "gas" appliance code here of any sort is generally at least 2' above the garage floor incase of flammable vapors being ignited especially water heaters. If you require a local inspection, contact Them and ask what their codes are.
The concentric vent kit is a must have if your exhausting air and or painting and such.
The exhausted air will have to come back inside and a furnace vent is the easiest place of entry with everything closed up or even a window cracked open causing the flames to literally roll back out and hopefully trip a safety switch shutting it down before bad things happen.
We had a Lot of calls from body shops in the Winter because of this. Problem was most had a natural draft straight up vent and impossible to run with the ex fan on. Soooo, turn the heat back on when you shut the fan off. Lol..
 
It's not showing a concentric accessory kit.
Just a single double wall vent which means you may have an issue using it with a ex fan running.
It is a power exhausting vent ,horizontal vent option,but no guarantee it won't malfunction.
Call mr heater and ask what their recommendations would be.
 
I need to update my situation as well. Was looking at the same hanging heaters with a concentric vent. But by time I’m done it seems I can just get a high efficiency LP gas forced air furnace. Then my exhaust and intake is simply just pvc pipe. And I have the option of adding AC as well. Am I missing something?
 
Problem with the 90+% central unit is it has a condensate Drain to contend with. No big deal but if it gets below freezing much and it's run outside, you'll need a heat tape. Especially when it's 20 and running a lot. Unbelievable how much water they can make. Most tie it in with ac drain but the rule still applies.
And,
A secondary heat exchanger that depending on manufacturer, can easily get plugged up with crap unless you're a religious Filter changer. Yeah,it's a PITA to Clean.You'll need some kind plenum,duct,"box" to create some static air pressure on the outlet. Won't just free blow out. Installing an evaporator coil for a/c will require the same Filter attention as well if you expect any sort of life expectancy.
Lp is no problem just need the conversion kit and skills,manometer to install it. Ain't no p&p...
Directions come with everything,knowing what to do right is kinda like painting cars........
 
NG just came down our street so i converted from oil. i had no problem with the oil but i had a heater of this type installed in my shop and man is it nice. its a 250k btu modine. i had a hvac guy do the install but right in the instructions it gave you all the clearances. mine is fairly tight to the wall. maybe 8" on the sides. the back needed quite a bit. 18" or something. top was maybe 12 or inches but i am guessing. i know where i have it the clearances aren't terrible.
 
MikeK said:
Problem with the 90+% central unit is it has a condensate Drain to contend with. No big deal but if it gets below freezing much and it's run outside, you'll need a heat tape. Especially when it's 20 and running a lot. Unbelievable how much water they can make. Most tie it in with ac drain but the rule still applies.
And,
A secondary heat exchanger that depending on manufacturer, can easily get plugged up with crap unless you're a religious Filter changer. Yeah,it's a PITA to Clean.You'll need some kind plenum,duct,"box" to create some static air pressure on the outlet. Won't just free blow out. Installing an evaporator coil for a/c will require the same Filter attention as well if you expect any sort of life expectancy.
Lp is no problem just need the conversion kit and skills,manometer to install it. Ain't no p&p...
Directions come with everything,knowing what to do right is kinda like painting cars........
Click to expand...
Yes I’m familiar with most of this. I’ve always just had oil forced air furnaces in the shop with a plenum on top blowing out. But oil is crazy $, tank inside, dirty and more maintenance. I thought about going the LP route. I could just put it in the shop with a plenum and some chutes like I had with the oil or I could put it in the corner in the tool room. This could possibly make it quieter and a touch cleaner? I could pop the plenum thru the wall into the shop and let it blow or run ductwork down the back wall. And I would pop the cold air thru the wall as well. What’s your thoughts on the giant expensive furnace filters? I’ve had a few local guys tell me the cheap free flowing ones are better for the furnace just change them for often. I don’t mind having a case of filters at the shop that’s cheap insurance. I also have drains in the floor at both locations for the condensate drain. Your right they sure do pump some water!
 
If you thought the oil was expensive then dont go propane. propane is even worse. Cleaner yes but considerably more $.
 
This is our backup for heat pumps on LP gas in shipping.
120,000 btus 99% efficiency, you can get 50 to 80,000 btu for the price of the Tonka toy you're looking at.
 

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These are our backups on LP gas for manufacturing and storage.
I think about around 120 to 140,000 BTUs.
The Bryant cost me around 450. And the goodman about 700 as bought them from alpine air, and they were dented.
Note the bucket of water as mentioned.
 

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LP here no NG available, running $1.79 a gal. Waiting to install either a small Goodman w/5 gal bucket or a minisplit. About 1350 sqft. Need to spray foam the lower 32" of block first. Just have a couple small elec heaters to take the edge off for now.

John
 
Thats a crazy cheap price for lp. I haven't seen a price like that in 20 years. Not sure how you are getting it that cheap. Typically its around $3.89gal. Up and down all the time but mostly hovers just under $4 gal.
 
Must be something to do with location. I try to fill the tank, 500 gal. in the off season meaning spring or late summer. It's also been so dry here the last couple of years that no one is running dryers for corn which drives the price down. I keep track of the costs and the most I've paid is $2.39 and that was 3 years ago in late March. That $1.76 is from 12/22. I'm cheap and also run a wood burner in the house most of the time. :) But it gets to be a PITA.

John
 
LITJOHN said:
LP here no NG available, running $1.79 a gal. Waiting to install either a small Goodman w/5 gal bucket or a minisplit. About 1350 sqft. Need to spray foam the lower 32" of block first. Just have a couple small elec heaters to take the edge off for now.

John
Click to expand...
That's about the same price I pay here in southeast Missouri.
 
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