Supernova VS 5000/5500RP?

M

mitch_04

Learnin'
Does anyone have a direct comparison? Experience with any?

I just want one gun to help me spray universal clear. I have the LPH400 and can get it to spray euro and production perfectly, but no matter how much I play with my air and fluid settings I just can't get the same with UV. I've tried everyones recommended settings and tried doing small adjustments on my own. I've been just spraying Euro lately because I can get it "perfect" out of the gun. 1/2" air hose, high flow fittings, 5HP compressor with 60 gallon main tank & 40 gallon assistant tank, regulated at the gun, 130 at the wall.
 
I can get the Supernova (5910) 1.4HD for 548, the X5500RP (1061564) 1.3 for 576, or the x5500RP digital (1061704) 1.3 for 696.... so they are all within the same realm of cost.
 
UV being a higher solid clear than Euro needs tighter overlap. Do about 75% overlap between passes. 1 3/4 turns out (if it's a 1.3) Prepare to move quickly. It's gonna spray a lot wetter than the LPH400.
 
Mitch do you use retarder in UV? I haven't sprayed any yet but will soon hopefully, but I've read here that a little retarder makes it flow out nice?
 
Slofut said:
Mitch do you use retarder in UV? I haven't sprayed any yet but will soon hopefully, but I've read here that a little retarder makes it flow out nice?
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Pretty much seems to me that this is everyone's secret.

Its the man not the thousand dollar paint gun that makes a painter.
 
Anotheridiot, I have asked you repeatedly to just not post on anything of mine. Apparently, this is too difficult for you. You feel the need to post on everything regardless of whether you know anything about the subject, always referring to military or CARC paint, or other brands despite this being an SPI site. If there was a way to block you, I gladly would.

Slofut, I have tried retarder, I have used the slowest activators and reducers, tried all the recommended settings, and searched till my eyes bleed on what else I could try. I can get it to lay very nicely, better than OEM texture, but still not as good as I can get Euro to lay out. I can make euro literally a mirror. The only thing I haven't done is reduce it, which is what a lot of people do, but to me it kind of defeats the point of going to Universal if you are going to dilute it. Maybe I'm missing something there.
 
@mitch_04
Having experience with both clears, Euro does lay out better. Like you said almost perfect. IMO that's because of the fact that it is slightly lower solids and it is reduced. I can lay Euro down similar to you. That was one of the reasons I liked it for collision repair. If you are shooting Universal better than OEM texture you are definitely on the right track. I never gotten it to lay down absolutely perfect either. Very close a few times but never perfect in my eyes. Doing that though consistently with all clears is kinda like spotting a Unicorn. Doesn't happen hardly ever. Not knowing how much retarder you used, but I would use 2-3 ounces per 32 ounces in every coat, creeping up on a little more if needed. Also concentrate on your first coat and getting it as close to perfect as you can. Closer you get to nailing the first coat the better it will look when done. Bump your pressure up or down see what that does. Also if shooting for perfection concentrate on being as straight and consistent with your passes as possible and keep your gun distance as consistent as you can. Being perfect on your passes and gun distance throughout the course of an overall is very hard to do. One or two panels it's much easier.

Edit 2-3 ounces per 32 ounces for every coat
 
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Yeah, I've read my thread over and over. And other threads. This isn't the absolute only reason I'm trying a new gun, I also find myself spraying quicker than I should, having to slow myself down. I have read the Sata is a much faster gun, so I figured I'd see if it matches better with the way I spray. Worse case scenario, I can always resell it and probably not take much of a hit since we have a pretty good discount at our warehouse.
 
I'm not qualified to add a lot to this Mitch but I find I love my LPH400 1.4. My friend Steve did not like it at all when I let him use it. I tend to be pretty slow and deliberate when I paint but Steve used to be the body shop foreman for the City of Chattanooga. He used to paint Crown Vics and fire trucks. He wants a fast gun that he can really move with. I've heard him talk about painting a ladder truck alone. Can you imagine?

You mentioned earlier, you had a hard time slowing down with the LPH400. I suspect a faster gun may suit you to a Tee with the UV.

Good luck with it. Keep us posted.

John
 
I did a quick search and found that a 1/2 hose is not very common and a 3/8 was preferred. Maybe trying that and keep it as short as you can. I know that means new fittings but only in the booth. Just a thought.
Revisit Barry's gun setup too. Painting is frustrating sometimes.
 
Do you have any idea why a smaller hose would be recommended? I understand the physical side, it is easier to get tangled up in, but I just can't imagine why having a higher volume of air flow would be a bad thing!
 
You have reached the end of my working knowledge. From here on, I'd just be making things up.

I wonder if it's too much air for the gun to handle. Worth trying a smaller hose.
 
3/8" would be considered the minimum. Also the most common due to ease of handling. Having a larger hose such as 1/2" isn't going to hurt anything.

Mitch have you tried the 5500? Or a 5000? If you haven't I think you will like it, if you like to spray fast. Another thought. Many factors play into having something lay down "perfect". Humidity is one of them. Lower=easier/slower drying Higher=harder faster drying. Many times over the years I have done exactly the same thing using the same technique on different days with similar weather and had slightly (to more than slightly :)) different results. I think the key is absolute consistency with your passes, absolute consistency with gun overlap, and absolute consistency with gun distance from the panel. All three have to be correct all of the time. With that being said it's easy to see how it isn't easy to lay down something perfect over multiple panels or an overall. To prove my point think about how easy it is to get something small to look close to "perfect" then think about how that never translates when doing something large.
 
I haven't yet, it will probably be a minute before I have something ready for clear. I painted a whole car with the LPH400 (usually I'm doing small stuff, not all overs) and with the UV it did turn out really great. Until I sprayed Euro.... haha

I'll be sure to check in once I get something sprayed, although I'm sure it'll take some getting used to with the new gun.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
UV being a higher solid clear than Euro needs tighter overlap. Do about 75% overlap between passes. 1 3/4 turns out (if it's a 1.3) Prepare to move quickly. It's gonna spray a lot wetter than the LPH400.
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what pressure? is it same adjustment as for 5000rp?
 
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