Any reason for no white regular build primer?

MikeS

MikeS

Camaro Nut
I was looking for regular build 2K primer and I don't see it offered in the catalog.
Any reason for no white?
I'm re-shooting a panel that was previously painted with PPG DPS white primer surfacer then followed with SPI white epoxy reduced as a sealer but that sealer pretty thin in color due to using one coat. I don't want to risk any color mismatch with the Butternut Yellow (same batch as the rest of the car) paint if I use a gray primer under the white sealer so I'd rather use white primer to minimize base coat build.

Mike
 
I do insurance stuff everyday so color match is something I deal with regularly. That being said I cant' see any issue with using a gray primer under the white epoxy sealer. Worst case 2 coat it with the white so you have a true white coverage. Are you panel painting or will you do a blend? Me I would blend into adjacent panels, super easy being that it is a non metallic color. That is the only true way to assure color match, panel painting most often times will have a slight difference. Sometimes it's noticeable sometimes not. That is the reason for blending. A color like that blends easy, even if you are a novice at blending.
 
Hi Chris,

It's a full door panel with no blending. I was weaned off PPG and onto SPI and I assumed there would be a white primer surfacer but I didn't check. For my next project I'll use what SPI offers but for now I figured if I can duplicate my process with what the rest of the car was painted with then I would minimize any variances.
I see turbo comes in white but not by the quart. My concern is if the door is a shade off and being between the front fender and rear quarter then it would be noticeable.

Thanks,
Mike
 
White primer won't make any color match. If you want you could use white epoxy as a sealer or primer. More then likely if your panel painting anything you will see it.
 
Hi Datec,

I've painted the whole front end separate months later than the main body and got a perfect match. But then I used the same process to paint it including the same working PSI at the gun. I have used the SPI white epoxy mixed as a sealer prior to spraying base on the car but that was over PPG DPS white primer.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Mike get true coverage with your sealer and you'll be fine. Meaning at least 2 coats (try reducing 1:1:10% or at most 1:1:20%) of the SPI white epoxy. Once you have coverage on your sealer it doesn't matter what's underneath. Or spray a couple of coats unreduced of the SPI epoxy and do your final sand, then seal with the white SPI.
 
Hi Chris,

I've been mixing the epoxy following the SPI manual to 50% as a sealer. Maybe that's why it's so translucent? I'll try the 20% mixture and give two coats if needed.

Thanks,
Mike
 
MikeS said:
Hi Chris,

I've been mixing the epoxy following the SPI manual to 50% as a sealer. Maybe that's why it's so translucent? I'll try the 20% mixture and give two coats if needed.

Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...

You could also use the 2K white sealer for that application.

And SPI does make the white turbo primer as well.
 
I thought of the turbo but that only comes in gallons. :(
Then again, a gallon of turbo ( I see the price for the 6350 activator is 'zero' on the price list. Is that wrong?) is probably close to a quart of DPS3051 and activator.

Mike
 
Activator is included in price. You can use the 2k Urethane sealer as a primer. Simply reduce it 4:1. 2k urethane (6402-1) is a viable alternative like Jorge said. SPI sells it in quarts. If I were you I would use the 2k as a primer and shoot 2 coats and have a nice pure white base, do my final sand then seal as you have been with the epoxy.
 
Being I normally use the SPI epoxy reduced as a sealer I haven't read fully the sealer specific 640X specs. The last line in the directions does mention mixing ratios to use as a primer only. That's a great idea guys thanks for mentioning it! I should have RTFM ;) I didn't want to go back to PPG unless it's for a base color only.
In case you were wondering why I'm re-shooting the door it is because I discovered some tiny rust coming through the lower front edge (freshly) painted surface while installing some molding. Pushing in with my finger nail I could feel some metal weakness. I was afraid of that happening being it is a blind cavity and the car is 50 years old. I bit the bullet and re-skinned the door. I'm glad I did because the entire bottom and inside edges were heavily rusted from behind in the blind cavities and it would have been a matter of time before it came out the painted side. At least now the door seam edge is sealed in epoxy adhesive and cavity wax just like the other door.

Thanks!
Mike
 
White in the sealer is a very big seller (6400 series) as shops tint it with the other colors but white primer on a whole is a small seller, so that is why we only have in the Turbo primer.
In regular build the gray is 95% of sales with Buff and black making up the other 5%.
A good bean counter would get rid of the black and buff and just have gray but no plans to do so.

As far as quarts, we only do quarts of clear and prime on a limited bases so jobbers can sell to walk in trade.
Only universal clear because a quart makes 1/2 gallon and gray regular build, quarts are a pain for us to package as we have to hand mallet the lids.
We can fill 600 gallons in same time, it takes us to do a 100 quarts.
 
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Hi Barry,

I figured it was economics that drove those decisions. At least I have a work around for my current situation and my next restoration (pass the Tums) I'll use what colors you have.
Question: what is meant by 'Buff' as in 'Buff/ Yellow' ?

Thanks,
Mike
 
Military primers we use are called buff, they spray white but dry to an off white.

I am taking by these answers that nobody really mixes base in their last primer coat to get closer to the shade the basecoat is going to be?
 
Interesting....I didn't know you could mix base with primer (?). I wonder, can base such as PPG's Deltron DBC be mixed with sealer to get to a close starting point?

Mike
 
Barry said:
White in the sealer is a very big seller (6400 series) as shops tint it with the other colors but white primer on a whole is a small seller, so that is why we only have in the Turbo primer.
In regular build the gray is 95% of sales with Buff and black making up the other 5%.
A good bean counter would get rid of the black and buff and just have gray but no plans to do so.

As far as quarts, we only do quarts of clear and prime on a limited bases so jobbers can sell to walk in trade.
Only universal clear because a quart makes 1/2 gallon and gray regular build, quarts are a pain for us to package as we have to hand mallet the lids.
We can fill 600 gallons in same time, it takes us to do a 100 quarts.
Click to expand...
IF you ever let a bean counter tell you to get rid of the black be prepared for a ------*------- of the SPI BAND WAGON !!! <tongue in cheek,lol>
ps, we know who the head bean counter is and we know where they live, ROFLOL.
 
MikeS said:
Interesting....I didn't know you could mix base with primer (?). I wonder, can base such as PPG's Deltron DBC be mixed with sealer to get to a close starting point?

Mike
Click to expand...

I think Barry only recommends tinting up-to 10%, so that may not get you very close to the color you'll be spraying.

What I've seen some painters do is take a B&W picture of the car they are about to paint, and then mix the closest shade of gray sealer for best coverage.
 
You can tint but in my experience you don't really save much material. Where it does help is on weak colors like some yellows. Or if you are using cheap base that doesn't cover well.
 
problem is depending on your base and the color your shooting for it takes ALOT of base to make a significant change in color. so much that it would alter the primer far too much unless of course your color is very light like your white primer. i have raw pigments here and even those can take alot sometimes. i think it has been proven though that you dont need to match or get close to the color. you really only need to match or get close to the value of the color. basically white to black or any shade of grey in between.
 
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