let's talk sanding

Does anyone make the "stick it" 3 3/4 x 27 yards" in 80-320? In case Im stating it incorrectly, Im referring to the hook and loop type paper than can be easily be swapped out without ruining it.
 
3M makes velcro continuous sandpaper in many grits. Is not my favorite but right now I can't think of any other option.

Most everything else comes precut in sheets.


Does anyone make the "stick it" 3 3/4 x 27 yards" in 80-320? In case Im stating it incorrectly, Im referring to the hook and loop type paper than can be easily be swapped out without ruining it.
 
Jim C or any of you guys that use Bufflex green and 3m trizact 5000, do you still use an interface pad with these or go direct to the DA ?
 
I can only speak for the Trizact. For 3000 and 5000 Trizact I don't use an interface pad because the discs already have some padding.

Mike
 
Jim C or any of you guys that use Bufflex green and 3m trizact 5000, do you still use an interface pad with these or go direct to the DA ?

Bufflex is a very thin disk and I use an interface pad. Eagle makes a very weird interface pad that is about 1/8" thick and feels very firm (don't have the part # right now) and it seems to work pretty good as well.
 
i use an interface pad for all my color sanding. its necessary for bufflex and optional for trizact but i still use it with trizact anyway. the interface pads that eagle makes for the bufflex system are about 1/2" thick but they are odd. they are fuzzy velcro on both sides. the disc doesn't really stick to the pad. i really don't like them or understand how they are supposed to work since the disc falls right off the sander.
 
Hey guys I'm new here but not to the industry,just had to give you some insight to some other Eagle sanding films which I use exclusively and that is the Super Assilex system I use all four grades the Ocean which is very coarse like 360 grit Sky 500 grit Lemon 800 Orange 1500 they last a long time cost 50 to 60 bucks for 25 discs or sheets an awesome system ,just may want to try it.
 
already on it. lol. i placed an order a few days ago to try out the orange as well as a box of the tolex. wanted to try both for the 1500 grit step to see how it compares to the yellow film discs. ill post up a review when i use them.
 
already on it. lol. i placed an order a few days ago to try out the orange as well as a box of the tolex. wanted to try both for the 1500 grit step to see how it compares to the yellow film discs. ill post up a review when i use them.

I tried the orange on 8 week old Universal clear , but I only had two damn disks that were sent to me as a demo with a whole bunch of other stuff, and I was trying the Menzerna 300 for the first time with the Eagle sanding so my results were inconclusive.

My feeling is that it cut faster and smoother, was not 100% pigtail free, I had to go back in a couple of spots with good old 2000 3M wet, but that was my technique rather than the performance of the disks itself. I'm really curious of what you'll find out when you use it Jim, let us know how it all works out with the Menzerna 300 as well.
 
ok update. i got a chance to use some different eagle products on a black vette i am working on. i always like to do my initial cut of 1000g dry so i can see when all the peel and dust specs are gone. for that i always use the eagle yellow film discs which always work great. from there i always went to 1500 yellow film dry which has always worked sort of ok but was never impressed with that step. i have always wanted to make the 1500 step wet since i am only refining scratches at that point. i ordered a box of orange assilex and a box of tolex discs. both of these are the soft silky type discs just like the bufflex. tolex is for dry sanding and assilex im sure will go either way. honestly the only difference with the tolex is it has alot of dry lube applied to it so it doesnt load up. i took each door off this car and sanded both with 1000 then one door was sanded with assilex wet an the other i did with tolex but i actually used the disc wet as well. tried it dry and it worked ok but wet was hands down better. after sanding i took my small mini buffer and menzerna supercut300 and buffed a small spot so i could see the scratches and how they buffed. my findings.....orange assilex while its supposed to be about 1500 grit, is far too aggressive. that stuff cuts as fast as a 400 disc but i would say the scratch left was about equal to 1000-1200 grit. the tolex with the exact same amount of buffing buffed right out to a high gloss finish. i am thinking that the tolex is the pink assilex with drylube added to it. pink is a step finer than the orange. so i ended up doing the whole rest of the car using 1000 yellow film then tolex wet. i must say the tolex cut fast and lasted forever. i used 1 disc to do the whole body of a 59 vette then another disc to do the doors, hood , trunk and hatch cover. with a compound like the menzerna 300 on 3 day old universal clear you can end with the tolex if you want. takes a little extra buffing work but not bad. it buffs right out no sweat. the green bufflex is optional. i used green bufflex on the body only and ended with tolex on all other parts. time wise i think it ended up being about the same either way. in any case i did the whole car from 1000 to final polish in 7 hrs without a single pigtail and only used 2 tolex and 1 bufflex disc. 2 bufflex if i did the whole job and not just the body. the 1000 took maybe 15-20 of those an9 75% of my sanding time was wrapped up in the 1000 stage. this method is definitely the best, cheapest and fasted way to go i have ever used. you could easily get 7-8 complete cars out of a $45 box of tolex. the menzerna 300 compound works great with this setup. no scratches or dull spots coming back on me like with 3m and leaves a high gloss finish that i can do a quick polishing on and its done. its like 3m perfect-it ex compound but far better. for my polish i still use the 3m perfect-it ex polish. the dark grey/black stuff. that i find is pretty good.
 
ok update. i got a chance to use some different eagle products on a black vette i am working on. i always like to do my initial cut of 1000g dry so i can see when all the peel and dust specs are gone. for that i always use the eagle yellow film discs which always work great. from there i always went to 1500 yellow film dry which has always worked sort of ok but was never impressed with that step. i have always wanted to make the 1500 step wet since i am only refining scratches at that point. i ordered a box of orange assilex and a box of tolex discs. both of these are the soft silky type discs just like the bufflex. tolex is for dry sanding and assilex im sure will go either way. honestly the only difference with the tolex is it has alot of dry lube applied to it so it doesnt load up. i took each door off this car and sanded both with 1000 then one door was sanded with assilex wet an the other i did with tolex but i actually used the disc wet as well. tried it dry and it worked ok but wet was hands down better. after sanding i took my small mini buffer and menzerna supercut300 and buffed a small spot so i could see the scratches and how they buffed. my findings.....orange assilex while its supposed to be about 1500 grit, is far too aggressive. that stuff cuts as fast as a 400 disc but i would say the scratch left was about equal to 1000-1200 grit. the tolex with the exact same amount of buffing buffed right out to a high gloss finish. i am thinking that the tolex is the pink assilex with drylube added to it. pink is a step finer than the orange. so i ended up doing the whole rest of the car using 1000 yellow film then tolex wet. i must say the tolex cut fast and lasted forever. i used 1 disc to do the whole body of a 59 vette then another disc to do the doors, hood , trunk and hatch cover. with a compound like the menzerna 300 on 3 day old universal clear you can end with the tolex if you want. takes a little extra buffing work but not bad. it buffs right out no sweat. the green bufflex is optional. i used green bufflex on the body only and ended with tolex on all other parts. time wise i think it ended up being about the same either way. in any case i did the whole car from 1000 to final polish in 7 hrs without a single pigtail and only used 2 tolex and 1 bufflex disc. 2 bufflex if i did the whole job and not just the body. the 1000 took maybe 15-20 of those an9 75% of my sanding time was wrapped up in the 1000 stage. this method is definitely the best, cheapest and fasted way to go i have ever used. you could easily get 7-8 complete cars out of a $45 box of tolex. the menzerna 300 compound works great with this setup. no scratches or dull spots coming back on me like with 3m and leaves a high gloss finish that i can do a quick polishing on and its done. its like 3m perfect-it ex compound but far better. for my polish i still use the 3m perfect-it ex polish. the dark grey/black stuff. that i find is pretty good.

Is the Tolex the 193-1503 disk, pink color?

Thanks for the update, I'll order some disks and follow your process. Sounds simpler and cheaper than using 3M Trizact.
 
yes thats the one and good god its waaaay cheaper than trizact. some quick math... assuming 7 cars, for this step only...... using tolex would run you $45 vs 3000 trizact would run $560-600. there is only one grit in tolex. it is super simple. for a more oem type finish that you just want to smooth out a bit and denib while leaving a slight peel then you can skip the 1000 and just tolex and buff. keep in mind that in the above process, that was with universal clear which does buff easy. on a more difficult to buff clear or oem clear then i would definitely go with the green bufflex as well then possibly black on really tough stuff.
 
Jim,
With the Menzerna Supercut 300, were you still using an orange hex-a-logic pad or something else ?
 
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