TIG welding

chevy_power427 said:
Tried it without gloves this weekend, feels a little better. I didn't zap myself, but I burnt myself with the hot filler rod. I was expecting to have a tanned hand, but it didn't.
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You definitely need a soft well fitting glove to TIG weld that gives you enough feel to feed your filler rod. Probably the most challenging part of learning is feeding the filler and not sticking your tungsten into the puddle. Good gloves are a real plus for TIG.

John
 
I've used BSX brand gloves for years. They are welding gloves that fit like mechanic gloves. I go through a couple pairs a year.

I no longer even bother to try it without them. Get shocked no matter how close the rod is to the puddle or how well the part is grounded. I don't experiment with it anymore I just wear the gloves. Easy fix. I was just curious if anyone else has this problem. Not the welder either as it's done it on 3 different machines.
 
Hi guys, I'm jumping in here kind of late, I hope people don't mind me bumping this post. I'm in the market for a new machine. I've been using MIG process on all of my work, my machine is a 175 millermatic. I've looked at multiprocess machines such as the multimatic 115 and I've also looked at stand alone TIG machines such as syncrowave series and dynasty. Needless to say, there is a huge leap in $

I feel it's time to take the leap into tig for my classic auto restoration shop and I don't want to box myself in with a tinker toy machine. I don't necessarily care to over purchase either. I'd like to make a prescription sort of selection, prescribed primarily for auto body panel welding, 18 to 20 gauge is what I see the most of with occasional 16-14 in structural areas such as rockers and or frame rail sections on unitized bodies.

I'm going to keep my old mig machine around for general purpose, but what sorts of features and capibilities should I shop for in a new TIG machine?
 
I'm no expert, nor do I make a living at this. What I have found, for STEEL autobody, a DC machine will work just fine. However, they don't have high frequency start (HF). When you step up to the $2-3000+ machines, you get A/C and HF start. With DC lift arc, I occasionally get stuck tungsten and have to stop, grind, or switch tungsten. Not a big deal as a hobbiest, but if you're on the clock, I think HF would be worth it. For home autobody use, I get by just fine with the multi-process DC lift arc unit. I have access to a AC/DC unit with all the bells and whistles, otherwise I would have stepped up to a stand alone TIG.

A lot of the multiprocess machines don't have a gas solenoid. You control that with a knob on the torch. All the stand-alone TIGs should have a gas solenoid and control pre/post flow.
 
Thank you. I was just looking at some miller machines and I was actually looking at some DC only machines. They do offer HF start on the DC machines, maxstar 150 and 161 are available with lift or HF start. The 150-161 machines seem to run in the $1500-1600 price range (HF) without tig torch and remote. That isn't out of my budget, I'm also looking at the 210 in the maxstar series (DC only). it does jump up into the $2500 range though which is close to where I'd start in a syncrowave AC/DC machine. Syncrowave 210 with tig torch, remote etc starts at around $2700 I think.

I am not in a hurry, but I have come as far as I can with mig. I am already spending tons of time panel fitting and in prep, I feel that I am doing everything I can around the mig process, reached the point where the mig process in itself is now what is holding me back. I feel I am at a point where the TIG process benefits would be greatly appreciated in my repair efforts. (The planishing, grinding, heat control etc)

I just want to buy the right machine.
 
have you considered the Lincoln Tig Squarewave 200? Its a lower end Tig Welder ($1399) but getting awesome reviews.
 
I have an Everlast welder. Has high frequency start and ac, works pretty well but I'm not a professional welder. I've welded light stuff on up to heavy stuff and always worked well. I bought the water cool as well, helps out with the heavier stuff. I'd recommend them for a starter welder, right around a grand.
 
Make sure you get a foot control, I had to buy mine after failing with the finger control on the torch. The finger control makes you do too much with one hand, I want that hand to have good control of the torch angle and distance.
 
northerndave said:
Hi guys, I'm jumping in here kind of late, I hope people don't mind me bumping this post. I'm in the market for a new machine. I've been using MIG process on all of my work, my machine is a 175 millermatic. I've looked at multiprocess machines such as the multimatic 115 and I've also looked at stand alone TIG machines such as syncrowave series and dynasty. Needless to say, there is a huge leap in $

I feel it's time to take the leap into tig for my classic auto restoration shop and I don't want to box myself in with a tinker toy machine. I don't necessarily care to over purchase either. I'd like to make a prescription sort of selection, prescribed primarily for auto body panel welding, 18 to 20 gauge is what I see the most of with occasional 16-14 in structural areas such as rockers and or frame rail sections on unitized bodies.

I'm going to keep my old mig machine around for general purpose, but what sorts of features and capibilities should I shop for in a new TIG machine?
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Dave if you are a Miller guy you'd probably like the Diversion 180. Professional machine with lots of good reviews.
http://store.cyberweld.com/mitigwed...Ewumq3oH-hrjanB_wxPs55s13jn2Lcv2aAaAibr8P8HAQ

I personally was kinda like you but I went with a Lincoln. Got it on Ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/140505887988?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Also recently bought a Meco Torch to go along with my DHC 2000 torch. The little Meco works awesome for gas welding panels. Super light, I love it. You can find them here: https://www.tinmantech.com/products/welding/meco-torch-accessories/
 
I spent about 6 months reading up on welders before I bought the MM215. I forgot about the Maxstar having a HF version. They get good reviews on weldingweb. Sometimes I see them come up for sale on CL. For sheet metal it would be just fine. Plan on 1 amp per .001" steel. So the Maxstar is good for about 1/4". I weld sheet metal at 40-45 amps.

Most TIG units come with a #17 size torch. Some of the best torches are made by CK Worldwide. I bought my welder without a torch or pedal. I bought a CK #9 torch superflex, light weight hose. It is much lighter and easier on the wrist than a standard #17.

If you take the time for perfect panel fitment, you are going to love the TIG. Here is the last patch I did, almost zero planishing! Something I'm going to try is Silicon Bronze to fill the pits, another benefit of TIG.

 
beautiful, what do you have for clamps there? Is that a GMC truck?

So you went with the 215?

Interesting. The 215 is what started this whole damn thing for me, I was looking at 211 to replace my tired old 175. Then I saw the 215 multi machine and that took my brain off into tig land. Are you happy with the machine as a MIG?
 
It is a 1957 Chevy pickup. I was planning on getting the 200, then waited for the 215. Supposedly the 215 MIG side is the same as the 211 except for digital interface. It has the same spool and guide roller setup. Yes, very happy with it. I have only run .023 wire through it. With autoset it lays too big of a bead on sheet metal = more grinding. So, I dial it manually. But for heavier gauge stuff, autoset works great.

I wanted my own MIG machine so I could quit borrowing my Dad's. Then I decided I might want to do some TIG. Lately I have only been doing sheetmetal and using the TIG more than MIG. It only takes 30 seconds to switch between process. Swap the cables, and turn on the bottle.
 
MX442 said:
It is a 1957 Chevy pickup. I was planning on getting the 200, then waited for the 215. Supposedly the 215 MIG side is the same as the 211 except for digital interface. It has the same spool and guide roller setup. Yes, very happy with it. I have only run .023 wire through it. With autoset it lays too big of a bead on sheet metal = more grinding. So, I dial it manually. But for heavier gauge stuff, autoset works great.

I wanted my own MIG machine so I could quit borrowing my Dad's. Then I decided I might want to do some TIG. Lately I have only been doing sheetmetal and using the TIG more than MIG. It only takes 30 seconds to switch between process. Swap the cables, and turn on the bottle.
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Thanks very much for the info.

The eyebrow repair on the truck fender looks good. Is it your truck or a customer's? I have a 56 or 57 GMC coming my way soon, I can't decide yet if I'm keeping it or making it a shop build for resale.
 
It's mine. This is just an obsessive hobby, not a business. I can't get enough of the 55-59 trucks, there may be more in my future. You'll have to post a few pics of the GMC project.
 
MX442 said:
It's mine. This is just an obsessive hobby, not a business. I can't get enough of the 55-59 trucks, there may be more in my future. You'll have to post a few pics of the GMC project.
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I figure I'll just toss a pillow over those seat springs and drive it.

lol
 
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