Vulcan 1968 SOHC 427 Mustang

Hi Rusty, I am exploring options for subframe/body strengthening on my 69 Mustang and I knew I had seen some done by you before. I'm curious though what do you do with the exhaust on this set-up with the X-centre section?

I think off the top of my head you have also put in convertible inner rockers on fastback/coupe bodies, is that correct? If so, what is involved and would you recommend it? At this point I have no floor pan in my car but am getting close to the point of welding in the new one piece replacement part. So now is the time to make any changes which I feel is necessary as I'm putting in an EFI 462CJ stroker engine.

Cheers,
Ash

rusty428cj;n39457 said:
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We have this on a 1967 Mustang with a 427 Windsor and the owner sent it to a custom exhaust shop, it was expensive but he has stainless all the way to the gt rear valance. If you are going to install the convertible inner rockers you would be better off with a convertible floor.

We also did this with 2 x 2 box tubing


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Thanks, Rusty.

I plan to build a stainless exhuast myself. I didn't want it to hang low though as our local roads will damage or rip it out it very quickly.

I couldn't find any convertivble inner rockers here in Aus so I have asked my local fab shop to fold me a set.

I thought about using some box tubing as well but wanted to keep it along the lines of factory components for the sake our or vehicle registration requirements.
 
Oh wow, that is a tight fit. Thanks, Rusty.

They are great examples and help a lot.
 
This project was on hold for a few years and the owner has decided on a few changes. I'm sorry to say he has decided not to go with the SOHC but is going with an aluminum FE just not sure how big it will be yet. We will also be doing a few modifications to the body.

It is out of storage and back in the fab shop.

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The first thing Brian did was finish lining up the sheetmetal

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Starting to install the Mustang to Fear gas filler kit.

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Welded in place and the welds ground

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The owner decided he didn't what the Shelby/Eleanor taillight panel that was installed before he bought the car. Brian had the fun job of cutting off the fiberglass taillight panel and end caps.

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We bought another taillight panel to cut out the stock taillights.

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After a lot of measuring and Brian standing back looking at them to make sure they were straight he welded them in place.

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Since we have a side gas filler we decided to do away with the original one.

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Brian cut out a section of the new taillight panel and welded it in place.

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After a little grinding

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Stay tuned for more modifications to the rear in the future.
 
Brian finished grinding the right side.

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Carriage bolts were welded to the taillight panel and ground down to hold the taillights

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He still has to finish the right side. He bolted it together and tack welded the carriage bolts removed the taillights and finished welding both sides. This is how they look before he grinds them down and weld them one more time before the final grinding.


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We decided to install a roll bar and I bought a kit from S & W for a 1968 Mustang

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We wanted to do something different so we cut about 1" off the end caps and spoiler.

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As you can see in this photo the bumper needs to be narrowed

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I cut the center out of the bumper and lined up both ends with the end caps.

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I will have to add fiberglass to get a tight gap

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Bumper fits better now but still needs a lot of work to look right

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The gap was larger in the middle so I added fiberglass

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We also added fiberglass to the bottom of the bumper

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The end caps were bolted and bonded to the quarter panel

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I also added a little fiberglass

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Bodywork ruffed in

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We now have a nice tight gap around the rear bumper

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Epoxy primed

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Next step is to finish the bodywork on the taillight panel and rear valance

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The end caps were bolted and bonded to the quarter panel

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I also added a little fiberglass

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Bodywork ruffed in

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We now have a nice tight gap around the rear bumper

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Epoxy primed

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Next step is to finish the bodywork on the taillight panel and rear valance

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Quarter scoops were bolted and bonded with 3m8115 panel adhesive.

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Major bodywork finished on the rear of the body yesterday

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Today I sprayed two coats of SPI epoxy primer

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We had to add fiberglass to the side exhaust skirts to give us something to bond to the pinch weld.

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Bonded to the rockers

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Started the bodywork

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Headlight bucket was bolted, bonded and fiberglassed to the fender

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Front fender flares installed

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Bodywork getting everything to line up

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Ready for a couple coats of SPI epoxy primer

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Not sure if it's something on my end, but I can't see the pictures in the last two posts,says "Photos not found".
 
Starting to fit the front apron

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The shape was wrong under the headlight buckets so we cut it apart and glassed it back together

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The spoiler was cut down and the front lip bonded back on.

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After sanding

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Bodywork to match the fender to the front apron

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After a lot of sanding and priming

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SPI black epoxy to seal the bodywork

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Two coats of SPI Turbo primer

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In the past I remember you using Slick Sand or some other polyester primer, and here you chose Turbo. Is there a reason or do you just use each for their own reasons?
 
Th
mitch_04 said:
In the past I remember you using Slick Sand or some other polyester primer, and here you chose Turbo. Is there a reason or do you just use each for their own reasons?
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The price of Slick Sand has gone up a lot and is hard to sand and I like the Turbo.
 
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