Complete ground up rebuild on Kenworth semi tractor, how many coats of Epoxy on chassis?

R

Rich W900A

I got a few question here, I'm a novice painter this is the first time I've picked up a paint gun other than an aresol can. I've put 2 coats on every piece of this chassis, frame rails, rear ends, suspension , front axle, cab mounts, cross members there is not a piece of bare metal touching any where on this truck. I've bolted it together now I want to do a few more coats of epoxy then paint, I know i've read about high build primer then blocking down then a sealer coat of epoxy but of coarse I'm not going to that extreme on a chassis, once I scuff it should I do 2 more coats of epoxy then paint to cover the bolts good? I don't see a need for a "sealer" coat per say, and I need advice on D-cups? Now that its a complete chassis I think I'm going to need to be able to spray up side down some Lol. I did go and spend the money on a Iwata 400 after combing over this forum. Thanks
 
All epoxy's are made different to do certain things with the SPI the more coats the better the protection for corrosion and chipping.
So scuff up and put 2 or 3 more coats on, NOW as far as painting over the epoxy????? I will say this for the SPI epoxy (only) anything you spray over the epoxy you are wasting time and money and going backwards even if you spend a $1000 a gallon for paint .
The exception is frame must be a certain color.
 
I've left all the truck frames I've done in SPI black epoxy, but all of those were fully covered by the cab or box. Most of the big KW trucks have exposed portions of the frame, certainly so when dead heading. I don't know too much about the UV protective ability of SPI epoxy, only that it's WAY better than any other epoxy. Epoxy is not typically UV resistant at all, but SPI puts UV blockers in the formula. I would think, though, that the black SPI SS #4201 would have even better UV protection than the epoxy. It's what I would probably use on top of epoxy for long-term good appearance if parts of the frame are going to be in the sun.
 
Crash, thanks for the education, now I don't have a clue what process would be best.
Too take advantage to the epoxy UVs you must induce for 4 hours just as a side note.
If my truck i would say right now I'm leaning at leaving in epoxy but still not sure.
 
I really have no idea how much sun the epoxy can take before it starts to turn gray, or how much more could be expected out of the SPI SS. I was assuming the SS to at least double the service life in full sun before discoloration or breakdown starts.
 
Even with the gloss the epoxy has I still would rather put a few coats of black SS on it because some of it is exposed to the elements and I want it to look as good as possible even with the added cost. Barry I've read so much about how black your SS Black is I just can not not put a couple coats on it Lol ,even though its a chassis I want to look the best I possibly can if you knew realized what goes on in my head you'd understand. that being said once I put 2 or 3 more coats of epoxy on do I still have the 7 days to put the black SS on or should I do it within a day or 2?
 
A day or 2 would be my recommendation up to 7 days for bonding, if you miss that window scuff with scotch pad put a seal coat of Epoxy down and the time clock starts again.
 
I also leave the Epoxy alone on frames and one in particular has a flat bed on it and has been that way ever since it was completed and no issues what so ever. I will be doing a recap answering a couple reacurring questions with photos to show what one can expect with SPI when done properly.
 
I think SS is a good decision, because a lot of the frame shows between cab and trailer depending on wheel base, and how much time the tractor is sitting or bobtailing, but if you want a used frame to look good, you will need to do a lot of sanding. The more gloss you have, the more it will show flaws. It won't be easy with all those bolts and rivets.
 
Even with the gloss the epoxy has I still would rather put a few coats of black SS on it because some of it is exposed to the elements and I want it to look as good as possible even with the added cost. Barry I've read so much about how black your SS Black is I just can not not put a couple coats on it Lol ,even though its a chassis I want to look the best I possibly can if you knew realized what goes on in my head you'd understand. that being said once I put 2 or 3 more coats of epoxy on do I still have the 7 days to put the black SS on or should I do it within a day or 2?

Okay I got it!
Put three coat of epoxy on frame and next day shoot your coats of the black be it 3 or 4 and you might consider adding 10% extra activator to the SS black if your not planning on buffing or buff within two days, (no we would never do this on out side panels)
 
It will be around 290 295 wheel base so there will be a lot of frame showing and exposed to the sun. I'm not expecting it to look like the paint job on the body but still want it to like good. The frame rails are new so that helps, wasn't planning on doing any buffing on it but ya never know I might on some of the more viewable areas of the frame rails. Its not going to be a "show truck" its going to be worked just trying to get the best I can within reason!!
 
Okay I got it!
Put three coat of epoxy on frame and next day shoot your coats of the black be it 3 or 4 and you might consider adding 10% extra activator to the SS black if your not planning on buffing or buff within two days, (no we would never do this on out side panels)
Whats the purpose of adding 10% extra activator?
 
Whats the purpose of adding 10% extra activator?

Rarely to i say do this on certain occasions to individuals if i know what they are doing and know this will help. not really interested in posting the positives and negatives of doing this as every SS is made different and could screw some up.
 
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