Boo Boo

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Toms 57 Chevy

Hey all its been a while since I posted anything on my 57. Well I was putting the hood back on and decided to clean bolt holes with a tap. I went to far. Any ideas how to fix. Maybe a shrinking disc? I thought I might use a flat punch in the bolt hole to dolly. I am lost.
Thanks
Tom
 

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They make thread chaser sets that won't do that and are easier on the threads, but I guess it's too late for that right now. In the photo, it looks like the metal may have been pierced. If so, it should be welded once it's been worked down a bit. the weld will help shrink it, so don't overshrink before welding. It's not an area that can be gotten to from the back, IIRC, so a light touch is called for. I would NOT use a shrinking disc here until the final stages, if at all. A small oxyacetylene flame with no quenching would be best to start, imo, or a stud gun with a shrinking tip.
 
Crash is right, there is no access (double braced) to the back side, so go slow.
This is not a case for hammer and dolly work, because it is all stretched metal. If you hammer it down, it has to go somewhere else.
I would try the stud gun with shrinking tip for more precise shrinking, but once in awhile I run into an area the stud gun won't move. So then the shrinking disc has to be used, but its hard to pin point just one spot with it.
 
Crash is right, there is no access (double braced) to the back side, so go slow.
This is not a case for hammer and dolly work, because it is all stretched metal. If you hammer it down, it has to go somewhere else.
I would try the stud gun with shrinking tip for more precise shrinking, but once in awhile I run into an area the stud gun won't move. So then the shrinking disc has to be used, but its hard to pin point just one spot with it.
 
Yes it is very limited. I was thinking I have a stud gun, but I am not sure what a shrinking tip is.
 
If you are very careful with the standard tip (no pin), you can shrink with it. There's just less control and it heats a smaller area.
 
If you are very careful with the standard tip (no pin), you can shrink with it. There's just less control and it heats a smaller area.
I saw a video where a guy used the stud gun without a stud to fix a oil canning panel. My question is do heat on the point or do I go around it
 
You could try going round it, but stay on the mound, and practice some on scrap so you know how long to hold the trigger. You will also have to strip the paint off that whole area so the grounding ring can make contact. Even when working on clean bare metal if the grounding ring doesn't make good contact, it could make a divet. Also keep the grounding ring clean, I use a file to keep it flat.
 
Heat the stretched area. Practice on scrap first because it's easy to overdo it and then start chasing your tail trying to fix what's going on. Acetylene torch with a small welding tip would be my choice before using a shrink tip on a stud gun. Either way don't quench the metal to shrink it, use a hammer and lots of light blows. You don't even need to heat it to cherry red, heat it at most to a dull red and start lightly tapping, metal will continue to be able to shrink even as it is cooling. You don;t need to keep it dull red the whole time. A propane torch will work for that as well.
If you are using the stud gun do as chevman says. Keep the ground ring clean, keep it making even contact around the high spot as well. Don't stay on the trigger for more than a half second or so. Don't quench it with water or air, Heat it with the shrink tip and start lightly (gently) tapping it with a hammer. Being that you have a captured nut behind the panel this should help to be able to almost fully work it back even though you can't get a dolly on it. The nut should provide enough support to help you avoid the tendency for the area around the high spot to sink as you are working it down. As you progress making a "dolly" out of a punch will help in finishing it. Take it slow and easy.
 
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put a bolt { flatten the end } in the hole. run it up against the metal and gently tap the point back down. you need to get rid of the point before using a shrinking disc or you risk bowing a hole in it .
 
Ok guys thanks for the input. Not sure which way I am going but I will use a bolt in the bolt hole as Shine suggested. I will let ya'll know how it works out. Thanks for all your help.
Tom
 
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