Clear on Underside of Panels

cmfisher4

Promoted Users
May seem like an odd question, but I struggled to find anything. What does everyone do about clearing the backs / underneath / etc. of stuff that won't see the light of day very much. Like, the underside of the trunk lid - places like that. I can tell on my daily driver that the factory definitely doesn't apply clear (or at least as much) on these spots. I would think that this is only done to save some money and because it won't be seen that much - just curious what everyone else does. These areas will be more technically complicated to paint (at least for me) due to the more numerous crevices and all that. Does the clear provide protection for the base coat that at least some is desired?

Thanks everyone,
Chris
 
I clear the underside of the hood, engine compartment, inside the trunk and the trunk lid. Anything normally unseen usually stays in epoxy or gets bed liner.
Years ago I got this formula from RM Diamont (BASF) for mixing base to use on interior of the car. Maybe Barry or one of the pros will give their opinion on it.

DIAMONT BASECOAT

INTERIOR (no clear or flex agents needed)

Mixing Ratio Instructions 1 part Diamont basecoat
10% hardener (DH42 or DH46)
75% - 100% UR reducer
 
I was told to use activated intercoat clear to replicate the matte finish. Or, use the matte clear.
 
How you finish it depends on what you are doing. Custom, concours restoration, etc. If you are restoring exactly to original than you would want to research how the underside was finished and duplicate that. If you are doing a resto mod or some type of custom build it's really up to you, how to finish it. I've used activated intercoat on backsides of panels (mainly high end late model collision repair stuff), Most collision repair type work just gets base, lot of times now it's underhood specific (no metallic etc) that the OEM does so we try to duplicate that. Resto mod depending on what it was would either get regular clear or matte clear. Just depends on the look you are going for.
 
I was told to use activated intercoat clear to replicate the matte finish. Or, use the matte clear.
Thanks, AAE. I missed that there was a matte clear. Maybe that's what I'm seeing on my daily driver.
Thanks, Chris. It's definitely not concours except in my dreams, but it sounds like, from a protection or technical standpoint, clear is not necessary. That was my greater concern that I wasn't going to not do something that I needed to do (like bmenard mentions). The original car was single-stage, so I'm already not doing what the factory did.
Thanks, everyone.
 
I was very impressed with the durability of the SPI dark base with 2 oz of hardner PSQ. I did clear the bottom of the floors but just added a slight bit more hardner for the top side since they will not see the light of day.

The truth is I really like the semi gloss shine but did not expect it to be as tough as it is. I have crawled all over them building the dash. Mounting the column, and hanging the pedals, booster etc. They have been amazingly resistant to sctratching, scuffing etc.

I don't have a great picture of the floors but maybe this will give an idea of what I am trying to explain.

John

 
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