SPI Black Base

D

davefan701

I sprayed black base reduced 1:1 and added a 1/2 cap of clear activator, per Barry's instructions.

It was sprayed over SPI Epoxy which was sprayed 5 days prior.

The Motobase Plumcrazy Pearl went on over the same prepped surface, flawless the day before, but this happened when sprayed the black.

Why did this happen so I can prevent it again. Barry suggested wet sand with 1500 and respray, which I will try and do today.

Tekna Prolite 1.3 tip TE20 Cap, spraying at 20 psi.
 

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That area appears to be contaminated and also the base appears to be sprayed very wet and/or with too slow of reducer for conditions. Normally you would not be able to see large wavy texture in the base. Pics can be deceiving though. Coatings are more sensitive to even minor contamination when sprayed very wet on the first coat.
 
I thought it was contamination also, because it happened immediately after being sprayed. It also happened on all the pieces I sprayed, although this was the worst. The only thing I did was use a tack rag, but now wondering if it left some behind.

The reducer was medium and the temp was just under 70.

So after I sand it down, should I use Grease and Wax remover and let that sit for an hour before respraying?
 
That shouldn't be your problem then.
I found like Crash said, that if the first coat goes down too heavy (epoxy, single stage or base) this crater effect can happen. Checking the spray pattern on a piece of masking paper taped to the wall will allow you to see the droplet size before applying to the car.
Just throwing out some thoughts as to why this happened. I have sprayed SPI black base and loved it.
 
Oh ok. I had my fan opened all the way and fluid two and half turns out. I'll sand and give it and a go.
 
Might try cranking the PSI at the gun to around 24 with the trigger pulled full open.
Checking on paper will definitely help. I hold the gun about 6" from the paper and pull the trigger full open for one second. Should be a nice shaped pattern with consistently sized fine droplets throughout.
 
Might try cranking the PSI at the gun to around 24 with the trigger pulled full open.
Checking on paper will definitely help. I hold the gun about 6" from the paper and pull the trigger full open for one second. Should be a nice shaped pattern with consistently sized fine droplets throughout.

Great! Thanks again. I will report back.
 
Silicone is a persistent and stubborn contaminant. We recently painted a fender and door on a freshly detailed Explorer and it was hell to get clean. Tape wouldn't stick to the jambs well even after multiple wipes with different W&G removers. The outside still wanted to fisheye in spots and I had to use some tricks to calm it down.
 
The doors were taken down bare metal and epoxied first. No trouble with epoxy. I'm leaning towards to wet.
 
Yeah, looking again, are those runs down below from the base coat? That's a sign that it was way too wet. Base should be medium coats only.

But even that said, the indication is that there is some kind of contamination in play. Aside from being on the surface from fingers, etc, or in the air line, it can even come in on the breeze. I remember being in the middle of painting a bedside inside a spray booth and it suddenly exploded with fisheyes. Turns out a helper was putting "tire shine" on the boss's pickup. Even though it was about 200 feet away and not really upwind, it was enough to destroy the job.
 
Yeah, looking again, are those runs down below from the base coat? That's a sign that it was way too wet. Base should be medium coats only.

But even that said, the indication is that there is some kind of contamination in play. Aside from being on the surface from fingers, etc, or in the air line, it can even come in on the breeze. I remember being in the middle of painting a bedside inside a spray booth and it suddenly exploded with fisheyes. Turns out a helper was putting "tire shine" on the boss's pickup. Even though it was about 200 feet away and not really upwind, it was enough to destroy the job.

Yeah it definitely went on too wet on that first panel, those are runs from that I noticed. so should I go ahead and just wet sand with 1500 grit? Anything I should do after that before I respray? Should I go over it with wax and grease remover?
 
I would sand it with no finer than 800 on a block because there may be visible texture later if you don't, and definitely clean the snot out of it before spraying. I'm not sure if #700 is okay for SPI base or not, generally we use #710 to clean base coat. I'll have to leave it to others to help with that. If you sand wet, put some Dawn in the water.
 
Ok, I'm not sure if I have 700 or 710, but it is water base, I believe.
 
#700 water base does have or used to have some acetone in it I believe, it attacked at least one brand of base we used so we just stopped using it for that particular purpose. So you'll need to call Barry or wait for others to give their experience, we can't use SPI base because 99% of our work involves color matching.
 
Ok, so far so good.

Wet sanded with 1500, and it took most of the black base off. I cleaned with W&G remover, worked fine. Let it dry for the recommended hour. Just finished first coat, letting it flash. Second coat in 20 min.
 
Ok, so far so good.

Wet sanded with 1500, and it took most of the black base off. I cleaned with W&G remover, worked fine. Let it dry for the recommended hour. Just finished first coat, letting it flash. Second coat in 20 min.
Black is one of those colors you don't want to rush to second coat. If you can wait an hour that would be good. JMO.
 
I waited 30 mins in between coats. All different kind of lighting. Clear tomorrow and the car will finally be jammed in. :)
 

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