At the gun regulators

metalman

Oldtimer
I thought diaphragm regulators were the way to go, better than the cheater valve type. I'm looking at what Sata offers for at the gun regulators and they look like cheater valves with gauges. Here is the analog one:
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The other is the Atom digital version.
What's the story with these, are they cheaters? do they restrict volume to the gun? No details on the Sata website.
I've been using the RTI diaphragm type but not trusting the one on the gun. I have to figure out a way to test how accurate it is when time allows.
 
Ernie, my feelings about a regulator on the gun is that they are really unnecessary. Use your regulator at the wall (on your line) and adjust it until it sprays the way you want. Barry recommends a fairly high setting at the wall, 125 psi I think (may be wrong) and then adjusting it down at the gun. What I do is the same thing just not at the gun but at the wall regulator (150 psi or so coming to the regulator) Unless you are in a regulated area like So-Cal or Nor-Cal and need to be within the compliant pressure limits then I feel they are unnecessary. All regulators at the gun (or anywhere else) restrict volume, that is what a regulator does to increase or decrease pressure. (by increasing or decreasing volume). Regulate at the wall use high flow couplers and you will have excellent results. The psi settings that Paint and gun manufacturers recommend are simply that, recommendations. Often times they are compromised to keep the gun within the maximum psi limits of VOC regulated areas.

I will say this that if you do need/want a regulator at the gun then using a SATA regulator (on a SATA gun) be it conventional or the Adam2 will allow you to have sufficient volume in order to spray.
 
i use an iwata gauge at the gun . a quality gauge is a must for todays guns. setting at the wall will not tell you what you are getting at the gun after 50 ft of hose .
 
Shine you miss my point, I don't care what PSI I'm getting at the gun only how it sprays. That's all that really matters. Move it up or down at the wall, test on some masking paper, get it where you want it and forget about pressure. No clunky regulator on your gun. In a booth, 35 foot hose.
 
I'm with Chris. Who wants a clunky regulator at the gun?
I use the same method as him - adjust at the wall regulator, but to get the initial pressure at the gun I use a removable gauge - my "gauge stick". Set the pressure at the wall, remove gauge, done. fine tune from there.




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I'm small time & when i do set at wall, i pop on temp psi gauge at gun & adj wall down as i hold gun open to my spray psi, then remove gauge.
Keep in mind i use very small fan pattern.

Edit- Bent- thats what i do.
 
Chris- you only use air valve on bottom of gun?
The air valves weather they are on the bottom or on the back as they are on the Sata should be close to or full open. They could be another restriction if closed down too much to reduce pressure.
 
Chris: I understand exactly what you explained. The problem I was having was getting hung up on a maximum pressure at the gun inlet, 28-29 PSI.
The problem proved itself when I tried less pressure 24-25 PSI, atomization got worse, it needs more. I think the Sata is more affected by any less flow/pressure than any of the other guns I use. I'm going to try eliminating the RTI regulator and work the wall regulator until I get results.
I don't paint as often as I used to so a way to know what is at the gun would help. Those Adam units that replace the air micrometer on the back of the gun are nice but wow, almost $300! I found a work around in my spare parts that is similar to what Bentrusty & Eddie use but small enough to leave on the gun (for now):
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It's just an 1/4" NPT aluminum pipe coupler with a 1/8" half coupler welded on the side. No restrictions, air goes straight through but it does read the pressure at the inlet for reference. The gauge looks huge in the photo (LOL) but it's only a 0-60 1.5" diameter. Doesn't get in my way on the side and doesn't add much to the length.
Here is what I have at the wall:
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Pretty decent Norgren regulator, about 37-38' of 3/8" hose and Milton hi-flo fittings on the gun end. I'll see how this all works out next time. I only use the Sata for clear and been using the Euro 2020 last few gallons. Got to get it back on track and get the love back with the Sata RP !
 
Shine you miss my point, I don't care what PSI I'm getting at the gun only how it sprays. That's all that really matters. Move it up or down at the wall, test on some masking paper, get it where you want it and forget about pressure. No clunky regulator on your gun. In a booth, 35 foot hose.
do as you wish but i will keep my gauge. i run wall pressure wipe open . my iwata gauge is pretty accurate .
 
I got this one as suggested here, local & it's the glass face. Works when i use it, screw it direct.
Waiting to hear how Chris throttles wall psi down. 150psi 2 steps back & hold gun with 2 hands if not.
Joking C. Built in reg?

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Chris- you only use air valve on bottom of gun?

Unregulated coming into the booth to the wall regulator on the line. Devilbiss DAD500 in front of regulator. I set the wall regulator to the pressure that the gun sprays best at. Usually around 30 psi (give or take) whether sealer, base, or clear at the wall regulator.

Regulator then 35 foot hose, hi-flow couplers and the gun. Micrometer on gun is set to wide open. I never fool with that. Been doing it that way for 15 years. Just trying to show that a regulator on the gun isn't neccesary and sometimes you can get hung up on having it at the "correct" air pressure as opposed to having the gun spraying correctly.
 
Chris- gotcha. I took it as you had no reg in booth and was feeding gun.
Most of the time i do as u do. I screw on reg when i'll be changing fan trying to minimize overspray/waste, and when adding 50' hose to spray out back. Sometimes i'll put reg on hose almost outside cause yes, extra crap & length to gun ain't easy for me.

Also like the guy here's technique who made belt clip for reg & uses whip.
 
I regulate at the gun leaving the wall at full pressure. Regulating at the gun I am able to adjust on the fly when getting into tight spaces and when you have to narrow the fan to get material into tight areas you can adjust the air right there.

The air whip is something I don't want it's just one extra piece that is just not needed in the way that could be a hazard to your paint job.
 
I like the use of the whip cause it eliminates the need for a fitting on the gun and regulator. To me it makes it feel more natural at my wrist because I can position the regulator adjustment knob away from my wrist and lock it down. The only thing that took me some getting use to was connecting my main hose, but I seem to always fight with those fittings, lol. After that it's like just a regular air hose. Everyone has there own preference and its neat to hear how others do things. Great thread.
 
So I bought this Sata analog gauge regulator just for the hell of it:
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Hell alright I sent it back, high priced junk in my opinion, it leaked at the gauge threads, that is fixable. It also leaked at the adjustment knob, not fixable.
Why should I have to fix anything at the ridiculous price they charge for these. Lost some of my respect for the brand.
 
that is a cheater valve with a gauge. any of them with the small body and the small knob are cheater valves .
 
I have the analog Iwata one Shine uses, a Sata digital, and a cheap Eastwood digital. The Sata went to hell immediately, was showing pressures wayyyy off (couldn't figure out why I had so many runs), swapped the the Eastwood digital andit worked fine. Grabbed a analog Iwata so I didn't have to keep swapping and I love it, stable and easy to read.
 
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