Search results for query: blending

...between the repair area and the original color. Remeber keep your coats light/medium. Do not spray it wet. Tack again and clear the entire panel. Do a search here with my username and keywords "blending" and "blender". I've gone into a lot of detail on this in the past. It should be helpful.

...to still be sanded (1200-1500 grit) area on the other side of where your last coat stops. Once finished then spray one light/medium coat of blending solvent over the blend area. Coat should extend 12" or so into the SS and extend past the blend (end of where you sprayed) Do not spray the...

...I did quite a few blends on those Caprices using lacquer. Shop we were at did a lot of old stuff that was originally NC lacquer (Packards, old Fords etc) and I got a little experience doing those. I miss that Shop and those old bastards(:)) but I don't miss blending lacquer. Or lacquer primer. :)

I would use SPI Intercoat before Bulldog or SPI's Ad-Pro. And I would only use it as a means to reduce my RTS base when blending. If you carry your scratches out to 800 wet you pretty much eliminate the need for a wet bed. A wet bed is mainly used so that when you are doing collision repair work...

Here is the TDS for Chromabase (K quality) which is what I'm assuming you are using. Has some info on blending in it. They recommend using 222S midcoat adhesion promoter as a wet bed followed by the technique I described to you. Keep it all within the coat of 222S. 69301S is the recommended...

...then re-base it and clear. No sealer necessary. It would not take a huge amount of base, I'd count on two coats. If you want to try it (blending) again I'll try to explain the process again. But your safest route and probably what I would do if I was in that situation would be to do the...

...light if at all possible. Don't trust that the guy behind the counter will do that. Counter guys almost always just revert back to the prime formula. When you do shoot it use a neutral gray sealer. Neutral gray or to the lighter end of the gray scale. That will work best for blending purposes

EXACTLY!!!:)

...remover and ready to spray either seal or not. Base, then midcoat (pearl-coat) and clear. No need for intercoat especially if you are not blending. You could use inter like TK said above if you are having issues with the pearl but pearl mids are generally pretty easy to spray. Especially OEM...

...the proper techniques will keep you from having issues 9x out of 10. When you do that is where blender comes in. Usually it's used when blending a repair. Also like the guys said above usually the issue is not having enough coverage or tilting the gun one way or another. Modern basecoat the...

My answer is......it depends. If you are blending a repair sometimes it's better to not seal. If you have no sand throughs to metal or filler it is quicker and easier to blend if you don't seal. If you have sand throughs you should seal. Treat your sealer like it's your first coat of base (on a...

Remember blending intercoat with base is only neccesary if you are having an issue with the blend, whether that is with color or shade, or if it's a metallic, blotchiness, striping, mottling etc. Most of the time it isn't neccessary and when it is you only do it on your last coat or if you are...

Gone into a lot of detail on multiple threads. http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/145842/&q=blending&c[users]=Chris_Hamilton&o=date http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/145843/&q=blender&c[users]=Chris_Hamilton&o=date Nothing against you AAE but that vid is so backasswards...

Excessive overspray should not be an issue. If you have lots of overspray you need to adjust your gun correctly and your air pressure. You should tack between coats of base though, to remove any oversoray that may be on the surface. What gun are using for the basecoat? One of us here can more...

...novice painters. Open blends are tricky and don't last very long before showing (3-5 years max). It is real easy to make a mess with blending solvent. I would spot in the basecoat, being that there is a chance of it lifting, taking extreme care to spray it dry. Meaning not getting the panel...

If he's nervous about blending within the hood blending into the fender and the cowl may be out of the question for him. Honestly blending within the hood will be easy. About as easy as it gets. Grogetter read through some of my posts talking about blending. I go into a lot of detail in several...

Let's say that is the case then doing the entire hood would have the same result. Only now the hood to the fenders. Blending it to the rest of the hood would be my choice as well. Should be fairly easy if you still have some of the paint you used. Do the repair, prime it, 800 wet the entire...

...We are talking slight variances in shade which without reference are impossible for the eye to easily discern. Where it does matter is with blending an existing color, like during a collision repair. Slight variances in shade will be much more magnified when next to the existing finish...

No it won't really soften cured urethane. It's only intended to soften the edge of what you are applying. Not what's already there. It may do so slightly but I don't think so. Doing what Crash stated above is key to getting a decent blend and adhesion. I only recommended option 3 because it is...

...http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/143850/&q=blender&c[users]=Chris_Hamilton&o=date http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/143851/&page=2&q=blending&c[users]=Chris_Hamilton&o=date