Search results for query: blender

...between the repair area and the original color. Remeber keep your coats light/medium. Do not spray it wet. Tack again and clear the entire panel. Do a search here with my username and keywords "blending" and "blender". I've gone into a lot of detail on this in the past. It should be helpful.

...in it. They recommend using 222S midcoat adhesion promoter as a wet bed followed by the technique I described to you. Keep it all within the coat of 222S. 69301S is the recommended blender for what you are using. https://www.johnsonautobodysupply.com/media/pdf/CX-TDS-ChromaBase-Basecoat-Eng.pdf

...it too lightly, or using too fast of a reducer. If you do it right you will get little to no over spray dust on the tack cloth. If you have a blender product or SPI Intercoat you could lay down a wet bed beforehand. That is simply a coat of the product (blender or intercoat) over the entire...

...don't stop in the same spot on any passes, then when you have coverage you make several passes with reduced base (ideally reduced with blender) over the entire area extending each pass farther out. If you feel comfortable doing it you can slightly pull back as you feather off the trigger at...

For modern basecoats using a "blender" or intercoat like SPI's is much safer and preferred technique than a drop coat. If you have experience doing a drop it's ok. But if you are a noobie it's easy to really make a mess trying to do it. First thing is to always use a high quality reducer...

...throughout the process. It's not a particularly hard color to spray. If you are nervous about the mid coat, over reducing with some blender or intercoat and shooting one more coat helps too. Keep your overlap at 75%. Walk entire panels or the side if you are doing it together. Don't stop and...

...http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/145843/&q=blender&c[users]=Chris_Hamilton&o=date Nothing against you AAE but that vid is so backasswards. Paint it once, wait to dry, prep it again, put it on and do it again? Lol. No one blends like this, day in, day out. Wastes too much time...

...You should consider biting the bullet and spraying 3 or 4 more coats of clear. Now would be the easiest time to do that. As for using the blender, I am always hesitant to recommend it as an option to relatively novice painters. Open blends are tricky and don't last very long before showing...

...talking about blending. I go into a lot of detail in several post about how to blend. http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/145222/&q=blender&c[users]=Chris_Hamilton&o=date http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/145223/&q=blending&c[users]=Chris_Hamilton&o=date Ask questions if...

...http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/143850/&q=blender&c[users]=Chris_Hamilton&o=date http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/143851/&page=2&q=blending&c[users]=Chris_Hamilton&o=date

...basecoat systems IMO. If you are having trouble with getting the metallic to lay correctly the correct thing to do is to reduce it with a "blender". Which is simply clear basecoat binder. SPI Intercoat would also serve the same purpose. That is only done if you are having issues. Don't...

...Standox tech rep to show me exactly how it's done. But I think it's completely unnecessary especially with all of the Manufacturers making a "blender" of one form or another these days. A far safer and super effective technique is to reduce your RTS base 1:1 with the manufacturers blender and...

...fan off while at the same time feathering off the trigger. Same method for starting, slightly fan in and feather on the trigger. Using blender or intercoat helps with the dry edges. You want it light but not dry. Play around with some masking paper and check for dryness. Oh and using slow or...

...In and out. No hard stop start areas with the base. You could also use the SPI Intercoat or being that you are using a Cromax base use their blender which works extremely well and dilute the base with blender or reduced intercoat 1:1. If it's a particulary strong color you could do a bit more...

I get tired of answering the same questions over and over (nothing against you Don). If you do a search using the keyword "blender" or "blending" and my username "Chris_Hamilton" you'll find a bunch of posts where I go into a lot of detail on how to blend.

Read through some of my posts here: http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/139801/&q=blender&c[users]=Chris_Hamilton&o=date I've covered what you need to do thoroughly in the past. This post in particular should be helpful. It was addressing a 3 stage refinish, but the same principles...

...will result in issues more often than not. If you are having issues one other thing to remember is the closer you get to true coverage the less issues you will have with striping. Best thing you can do is if there is any doubt, get some blender, mix it 1:1 with RTS base and spray one more coat.

...don't try to spray too heavy. Some metallics take four, even five coats (medium) to get coverage. If you are still having issues you can get "blender" at any jobber or through SPI (Intercoat clear). On your last one or two coats reduce your RTS base 1:1 with blender. That along with more...

...One thing I do is to stand back and "relax" my eyes while looking at the blend. Take your RTS (ready to spray) basecoat and add some "blender" to it in the ratio of 1 part RTS base to 1 part blender. You can get blender at your jobber. Ask him for a pint or quart of it when you get your...

...brand? Give the jobber the VIN#. All Majors now use the VIN to get the correct formula or alternate formula. Once you get the right color use blender in your last coat of base on the base blend, then use blender again on you last coat of mid in the mid blend. Like Texas said you are gonna...