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It's on my suburban, been there for a year or so. Haven't had any issues yet, but they are painted steel. Are you going over bare aluminum or steel? If so, probably should spray some activated adhesion promoter prior.

http://spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/best-clear-for-steel-rims.5472/

I'm blacking out my pickup, and that rusty old tailpipe is annoying me. It's an 03 Silverado, and I though about epoxying the rear section, past the axle. I'm thinking it might stay cool enough back there to not cause any issues. I have Cerakote as well, but I feel like the epoxy would be...

I think it is very dependent on how you spray. I like spraying fast, can't seem to slow myself down. The Sata works great, I don't have to concentrate, just kinda go.

Sprayed a bunch more with the Sata... love that gun! Everything I shoot lays flat. I haven't spent much time trying to fine tune it, but I imagine if I tinkered with my pressure and flow a bit I could get it even better.

I just "bought in" for the first time, a $2400 order! Here I thought this was gonna be a price increase post making me feel like I snuck in just in time, haha!!!

Let me know if you ever want to get rid of it, I might pick it up for a rebuild. Don't need any more projects, but can't stop myself!

What kind of a sub? I've been rebuilding a lot of subs lately. Refoamed, recoiled, etc etc.

Another non-paint side project. When I bought my shop, the guy I bought it from left some valve grinding tools there and someone else was supposed to come and get. After 5 years, I figured I could probably use them. Took this old Black & Decker valve grinder, buffed it up, and rebuilt it with...

I finally got around to using it on a couple panels. The Sata sprays the universal as well as my LPH sprays euro, so I'm happy! Definitely fits my spray style better... I've only done a couple small pieces but very little orange peel so far. I need to get another Luma III for it, my shop...

So once you have cubic feet, how do you determine amount of filters needed? Is there a calculator somewhere that shows this?

https://www.google.com/search?q=buffer+site%3Aspiuserforum.com&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS751US751&oq=buffer+site%3Aspiuserforum.com&aqs=chrome..69i57.6542j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Something that should be a sticky in and of itself... to do a better search, use google. Type what you want and then put site:spiuserforum.com after. For Example Buffer site:spiuserforum.com I find that Googles search is tough to beat, and it works on any website. When I'm looking for paint...

When I hear people talk about getting the best finish, it's often said to use the slowest activator possible. Does that go for the reducer too? Or can someone straighten me out here?

In the Diamont and Wanda lines, is it a pre-mixed base or a powder? My googling is leading no where.

Would this be the correct stuff? https://www.ebay.com/itm/White-Frost-Xirallic-Pearl-50-grams-Liquid-Automotive-Custom-Paint-Hot-Rod-Bike-/112268371906

How many coats of turbo equal a coat of slick sand (or similar)? Then....how many coats of epoxy equal a coat of turbo? Would be a handy reference, assuming the person spraying sprays the same. Obviously you can adjust thicker or heavier.

Haha, same....literally. Used to build systems in my head and on paper I couldn't afford. Loved the system layouts that the car audio magazines had. I'm getting quite a stash, I'll post pics someday.

A kicker ZX240 from roughly 2000, I have not started stripping it yet. It'll probably be a few steps back on the project list. I'm starting to collect some older car audio that I couldn't afford as a kid.

Yeah, I don't think standard has changed their boxes in like 30 years! I love when we get old AC plugs and such, you can just tell from the design what era they are from.