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Just to be clear what the manual is saying. When it's out of the re-coat window then it is best practice (i.e. required) to sand with 180 then apply two more coats of epoxy over the initial epoxy before applying any other topcoat. The reason for this is because cured epoxy is so solvent...

Is it self powered?

Was your booth fan running during all of this? I've had that happen several times over the years. Had to redo one when the Bosses son was spraying armor all 20 feet from the booth while I was spraying. I about came to blows with him over that. Being you are the Boss, might be a good time to...

At least Summit stepped up in this case. Nice to see the little guy get a victory and Speedmaster is going to feel not being able to sell through Summit. Problem still exists but this is a victory.

In addition to richer, I think "muted" is a good word to describe it as well. I think the pic of Dons Camaro really makes the case for SS on something older. I think the Don won big that day as well. Thanks in no small part to that paint.

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/black-single-stage-or-base-with-clear-for-novice.6603/ http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/not-a-pro-bc-cc-black-or-ss-black.5724/#post-60896

Depending on the light (sun clouds, dusk dawn) a base clear black job can appear slightly grey like in the first photo. Single stage doesn't have that issue.

Single stage versus base clear. I don't think the 69 is SPI but it illustrates the difference. This is the 2015 Peeble Beach Best of Show winner. Used SPI base and clear. Looks great but you can see the difference to Don's Camaro.

Single stage. Notice the glassy/greyish look of the 69 beside it?

Here is the pic. Hope Don doesn't mind me posting it here.

Barry fixed the brown tint issue that some had seen in SS black. Shortly after that thread about it. (about a year and a half ago or so) As for the question Lizer, in addition to what Shine said, you don't have the glassy reflection look that you get with clear over base black. ( or any solid...

It's not going to spray clear well. It's for basecoat really.

Just to add JC, that is the same gun I used for 15+ years to spray base at work. Day in, day out. It was my go to gun doing collision. There are no gaskets to wear out in that gun. Take it apart and look at the needle contact pad. If you see a lot of wear there it's not a good sign but it will...

Excellent gun. It will spray any base or pearl very well. Not for clear though but an excellent basecoat gun.

Iso clumping? http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/where-to-go-from-here-moisture-pimples.9079/

I seem to recall Barry saying that turning up your air pressure some will help if you are experiencing that. I know that he addressed that at one time on here.

Somewhere between Spi red and Spi medium red. You could blend the two to get something close. It will take some testing. I would start with 50/50 and go from there.

Nothing wrong with waiting 30 minutes. If you are in a production environment then you go as soon as the clear doesn't string, but if not then 30 minutes is good practice to do so. Stuff I'm doing these days I always defer to what Barry said to do. Especially when using his products. As for...

Barry mentioned numerous times in the past for several reasons, that he does not recommend using any ceramic products on his clears or single stage. Perhaps give SPI a call and ask if they have recommendations.

Booths that move a lot of air will often have a lot of issues. Solvent pop, dieback etc. Exhaust the overspray, turn it off, turn it back on next coat.