MJM
Promoted Users
Incredible, great job !!!
1964 Buick Riviera
- Thread starter 64Rivi
- Start date
Incredible, great job !!!
64Rivi
Promoted Users
Sorry for the long gap in updates. That life thing seems to always catch me off guard!
Mike, the wheel is 16-inches. Looks bigger than it is in the pictures.
Had been plugging away at the interior pretty smoothly until it was time to rebuild the seats. Now that I'm finished with them, I think I can write an entire post (if not a book) on all the work that went into bringing these back to life. Starting to see the genius in using aftermarket seats.
At the risk of leaving out all the detail, I'll try and high spot the work before this gets too long. If you guys have any questions or want to see more pictures, just let me know and I'll be happy to pile more on.
After clipping what had to be 1000-hog rings, I finally removed all of the upholstery down to the springs and frames. The rear springs were in good shape but the frame had a badly rusted corner from a water leak in the car that also took out the rear passenger side floor. I had cut that out and bent up some 18-gauge steel to duplicate the original frame structure.
Unfortunately, the front seats were completely shot. Broken and worn springs. The drivers side had been repaired somewhere in the past using furniture springs and rubber welting. That added another 500 hog rings to have to clip off and disassemble that seat! After removing the spring bases and backs, I was left with just the rusted frames. Decided to have them all blasted and powder coated to start fresh with clean frames.
Here is one of the spring bases for the front seats (you can see the furniture springs in the back). You can buy these aftermarket for most of the popular cars but being this is a Rivera, of course it was not that easy. I read somewhere that GTO bucket seats from the same year were identical. Unfortunately, that was not the case. This seat is pretty unique in its seat structure so it was back to the drawing board with having to make one up from scratch.
After breaking down all of the springs and cutting the clamps, the only thing that was usable was the frame. Which was good considering it was the most important part as it determines the shape.
Now the fun starts......
Here's what I started with; a roll of sinusoidal springs, spring benders and a host of clamps and special tools to crimp them. FYI for anyone attempting this in the future; most of the clamps and the tools to crimp them that are offered out there are useless. The clamps don't fit the tools properly, the clamps don't get crimped properly and they almost always are too loose to be effective. I ended up finding the right clamps but doing them mostly by hand with various hand tools.
Mike, the wheel is 16-inches. Looks bigger than it is in the pictures.
Had been plugging away at the interior pretty smoothly until it was time to rebuild the seats. Now that I'm finished with them, I think I can write an entire post (if not a book) on all the work that went into bringing these back to life. Starting to see the genius in using aftermarket seats.
At the risk of leaving out all the detail, I'll try and high spot the work before this gets too long. If you guys have any questions or want to see more pictures, just let me know and I'll be happy to pile more on.After clipping what had to be 1000-hog rings, I finally removed all of the upholstery down to the springs and frames. The rear springs were in good shape but the frame had a badly rusted corner from a water leak in the car that also took out the rear passenger side floor. I had cut that out and bent up some 18-gauge steel to duplicate the original frame structure.
Unfortunately, the front seats were completely shot. Broken and worn springs. The drivers side had been repaired somewhere in the past using furniture springs and rubber welting. That added another 500 hog rings to have to clip off and disassemble that seat!
After removing the spring bases and backs, I was left with just the rusted frames. Decided to have them all blasted and powder coated to start fresh with clean frames.Here is one of the spring bases for the front seats (you can see the furniture springs in the back). You can buy these aftermarket for most of the popular cars but being this is a Rivera, of course it was not that easy. I read somewhere that GTO bucket seats from the same year were identical. Unfortunately, that was not the case. This seat is pretty unique in its seat structure so it was back to the drawing board with having to make one up from scratch.
After breaking down all of the springs and cutting the clamps, the only thing that was usable was the frame. Which was good considering it was the most important part as it determines the shape.
Now the fun starts......
Here's what I started with; a roll of sinusoidal springs, spring benders and a host of clamps and special tools to crimp them. FYI for anyone attempting this in the future; most of the clamps and the tools to crimp them that are offered out there are useless. The clamps don't fit the tools properly, the clamps don't get crimped properly and they almost always are too loose to be effective. I ended up finding the right clamps but doing them mostly by hand with various hand tools.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
This part got really tedious and the bag of patience had to come out.
First, the spring had to be cut to size for each individual spring and then straightened out. Once that was done, it's time to start counting coils to align the spring properly for the orientation and making sure the right coil lands where you need it. I used each of the original springs as a template for each individual spring/ location. Putting one of the spring benders in a vise while using the other by hand was extremely helpful as they are not that easy to bend into the correct shape freehand.
I also set up the spring frame within the seat frame using a few of the old springs using zip ties. This helped to hold the shape and maintain the dimensions of the seat while I made/ fitted each spring individually.
After fighting with each individual spring to make a cohesive seat with the right dimensions, it was time to clamp it all together to the frame and make it all official.
Now the seat backs I did get somewhat lucky on. The spring backs to a 64 GTO were not the same however, the springs themselves were. This saved a lot of time and headache since the springs are a bit more complicated and made out of a lighter gauge spring. I was able to cut them out of the new spring backs that I bought and slightly stretch them to fit the original frame for the Rivera backs (as was done by the factory on these seats).
First, the spring had to be cut to size for each individual spring and then straightened out. Once that was done, it's time to start counting coils to align the spring properly for the orientation and making sure the right coil lands where you need it. I used each of the original springs as a template for each individual spring/ location. Putting one of the spring benders in a vise while using the other by hand was extremely helpful as they are not that easy to bend into the correct shape freehand.
I also set up the spring frame within the seat frame using a few of the old springs using zip ties. This helped to hold the shape and maintain the dimensions of the seat while I made/ fitted each spring individually.
After fighting with each individual spring to make a cohesive seat with the right dimensions, it was time to clamp it all together to the frame and make it all official.
Now the seat backs I did get somewhat lucky on. The spring backs to a 64 GTO were not the same however, the springs themselves were. This saved a lot of time and headache since the springs are a bit more complicated and made out of a lighter gauge spring. I was able to cut them out of the new spring backs that I bought and slightly stretch them to fit the original frame for the Rivera backs (as was done by the factory on these seats).
Nice job. I went through the same thing with a tri-5 chevy front bench seat, and thought the Osborn hand tools were very beneficial. Putting one spring bender in the vice is the only way to go, and even then you have to be very careful to make a straight bend, a person would have to be very experienced to do that without a vice. The mustang bucket seat springs just go straight across without any bending.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
By any chance, was that your post on the TriFive forum, Chevman? That was one of the very few sources I found of someone attempting this. If so, a great big thanks as that post was very helpful to me when I was researching! I pulled the idea of putting one of the spring benders in the vise from that post!
Wish I could say the same about the Osborn clips and tools. Bought them all and never really liked any of the results. Just didn't work out for what I was working on...and now I'm just glad that whole project is behind me.
Wish I could say the same about the Osborn clips and tools. Bought them all and never really liked any of the results. Just didn't work out for what I was working on...and now I'm just glad that whole project is behind me.
Shuuuuu, don't tell anyone. Not many guys consider replacing the 60 year old springs. Ciadella has a video showing how to recover a bench seat, and it shows how you should use your hands and pull the springs back up from their worn down position. Wonder how long it would take a 240lb man to make those springs go right back down. My 160lb body might get a couple hours use out of it, but the main reason I replaced the springs was to maintain the tight seat covers.
I'm glad you got some help from the article.
I'm glad you got some help from the article.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
Well; I've been extremely lazy with my updates since the last post so time to play catch up as the Rivi is just about finished.
After rebuilding the seat frames, it was time to start the upholstery process. Not a lot information out there with regards to original restoration of GM seats as they were done from the factory. A lot of steps are left out or short cuts made when rebuilding these seats nowadays so I figured I'd share a bunch of detail in case anyone else comes along and finds it helpful. I wanted to keep with the original design seeing as the seats lasted for over 50-years.
To keep the seat backs sprung and limit their extension, a strip of burlap is used between the top of the spring frame and seat back. These are made from a 9 oz. burlap that has a paper-coated listing wire sewn on each side. This gives it a base for the hog rings to hold onto when attaching to the seat frame and spring frame.
For the seat bases and backs, a layer of burlap interwoven with piano wire was hog ringed to the springs down the center of each seat. This supported the foam seat buns and kept them from pushing through the springs over time. To make these, I used a 7 oz. burlap which has a loose weave and allows you to pass the support wire through it. Before doing this, you roll the edges over twice (~1/2") and press them with an iron to make a reinforced edge for the wire to clip onto once inserted all the way. I then drew a grid on the burlap duplicating the original pattern (~ 1" x 1 1/2" squares) in order to uniformly weave the wires into the burlap. Once all the way through, the ends of the wire have a loop on them which can be looped over the edge using needle nose pliers. Thankfully, most of my wires were in good shape. A few had to be straighten out however, if you needed to make more, you can get straight cut lengths of piano wire that can be used to make new ones.
After they are all set, you hog ring them to the seat bases and backs down the center.
The seat upholstery for the 64 Riviera had insert panels down the center of the covers. The covers themselves have a channel along the sides and top of each insert that attach to the seat frame through the foam. These channels have a length of paper-coated listed wire in them for the hog ring to attach to. On the seats, paper-coated listing wire needed to be hog ringed to the springs in the same spots for the connection.
After all the details were set, a layer of 9 oz. burlap covers everything and hog rings to the frame perimeter. The front seat bases were a bit different, however. They had the listing wire applied over the top of the final burlap (I have no idea why but kept with the way the seat was originally upholstered). The seat bases also have a layer of 3/8 felt wrapped over the edge and hog ringed. This keeps the seat frame from cutting through the foam buns.
And while this was all going on, I took apart the seat tracks, blasted them and sprayed a few coats of SPI epoxy over them. Greased them up and put them back together for a nice slide.
After rebuilding the seat frames, it was time to start the upholstery process. Not a lot information out there with regards to original restoration of GM seats as they were done from the factory. A lot of steps are left out or short cuts made when rebuilding these seats nowadays so I figured I'd share a bunch of detail in case anyone else comes along and finds it helpful. I wanted to keep with the original design seeing as the seats lasted for over 50-years.
To keep the seat backs sprung and limit their extension, a strip of burlap is used between the top of the spring frame and seat back. These are made from a 9 oz. burlap that has a paper-coated listing wire sewn on each side. This gives it a base for the hog rings to hold onto when attaching to the seat frame and spring frame.
For the seat bases and backs, a layer of burlap interwoven with piano wire was hog ringed to the springs down the center of each seat. This supported the foam seat buns and kept them from pushing through the springs over time. To make these, I used a 7 oz. burlap which has a loose weave and allows you to pass the support wire through it. Before doing this, you roll the edges over twice (~1/2") and press them with an iron to make a reinforced edge for the wire to clip onto once inserted all the way. I then drew a grid on the burlap duplicating the original pattern (~ 1" x 1 1/2" squares) in order to uniformly weave the wires into the burlap. Once all the way through, the ends of the wire have a loop on them which can be looped over the edge using needle nose pliers. Thankfully, most of my wires were in good shape. A few had to be straighten out however, if you needed to make more, you can get straight cut lengths of piano wire that can be used to make new ones.
After they are all set, you hog ring them to the seat bases and backs down the center.
The seat upholstery for the 64 Riviera had insert panels down the center of the covers. The covers themselves have a channel along the sides and top of each insert that attach to the seat frame through the foam. These channels have a length of paper-coated listed wire in them for the hog ring to attach to. On the seats, paper-coated listing wire needed to be hog ringed to the springs in the same spots for the connection.
After all the details were set, a layer of 9 oz. burlap covers everything and hog rings to the frame perimeter. The front seat bases were a bit different, however. They had the listing wire applied over the top of the final burlap (I have no idea why but kept with the way the seat was originally upholstered). The seat bases also have a layer of 3/8 felt wrapped over the edge and hog ringed. This keeps the seat frame from cutting through the foam buns.
And while this was all going on, I took apart the seat tracks, blasted them and sprayed a few coats of SPI epoxy over them. Greased them up and put them back together for a nice slide.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Great write up. I am sure this will be a big help to many.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
This is where it starts to get a bit complicated. In keeping with the theme of first generation Riviera's; not a lot of parts are reproduced for it including the seat buns. You'd think these would be pretty common as a lot of models shared the same seat frames with different upholstery. Nope; not the 63 - 65 Riviera....all unique.....and not reproduced. You get a little bit lucky on the front seam foams since the 64 GTO/ Lemans
buns are almost the same. A little bit of trimming needs to be done to the base but it's almost perfect. The back seats.....not even close to getting that lucky (more on that in the next post).
The front seat backs get some 1/2' felt glued to the frame to pad the cover and hold it off the frame. Some 1/2' felt get's hog ringed inside the frame between the springs to act as sound deadener to the springs.
The seats are then covered in cotton batting prior to the foam buns. Most use polyester batting these days but again; I was keeping with the original (and actually like the cotton better). The cotton is just laid over the tops of the seat bases and backs and you can easily tear off the overlap where needed (you don't have to cut it with a scissor; it just tears right apart since it's not woven). You then have to located where the paper-coated listing wire was underneath and open up the cotton to make it easier to find with a hog ring. In this case, I found it easier to cut the cotton more precisely with upholstery scissors as opposed to just tearing the cotton.
The seat foams are then laid over the tops. Each bun either has or will have muslin strips glued along the edges to attach the foam to the seat frame. Once lined up, the muslin strips roll up the cotton batting neatly and then you can hog ring them nicely to the frame.
All set for the front seat covers now. I'm going to keep this PG for you guys and skip all the cursing, yelling, screaming, stretching, burnt fingers and hundreds of hog rings that were attached, cut off and then new ones applied again. So here's the cliff-notes....
The cover installation starts with the listing wire for the center inserts. This is were the seats either work.....or fail. You're alignment in this step is what will make or break your upolstery job. Get the centers lined up and your are golden. If they're off......you're doing it all over again! Probably one of the more difficult parts of the job; you have to hold an open hog ring plier loaded with a hog ring and hook a listing wire while pushing it through the seat foam and cotton while barely having enough hog ring to grip the listing wire on the seat......and squeeze the pliers before it pops off......if you miss; you start all over again. Or better yet, you think you have it....all to find out that you missed the wire on the seat and you are cutting off the hog ring and starting over again.....fun stuff.
Once the inserts are hog ringed in place, another layer of cotton is applied over the bolsters on the base and backs. This fills the voids between the cover and foam and tightens them up a bit. The center inserts don't need the extra cotton since foam is stitched into the cover between the seams. Before the cotton goes on, a layer of #10 cheesecloth is laid over the top of the cotton. This faces the seat cover side and makes it easier for the seat cover to stretch over the cotton without the seat cover grabbing the cotton and pulling it out of place.
buns are almost the same. A little bit of trimming needs to be done to the base but it's almost perfect. The back seats.....not even close to getting that lucky (more on that in the next post).
The front seat backs get some 1/2' felt glued to the frame to pad the cover and hold it off the frame. Some 1/2' felt get's hog ringed inside the frame between the springs to act as sound deadener to the springs.
The seats are then covered in cotton batting prior to the foam buns. Most use polyester batting these days but again; I was keeping with the original (and actually like the cotton better). The cotton is just laid over the tops of the seat bases and backs and you can easily tear off the overlap where needed (you don't have to cut it with a scissor; it just tears right apart since it's not woven). You then have to located where the paper-coated listing wire was underneath and open up the cotton to make it easier to find with a hog ring. In this case, I found it easier to cut the cotton more precisely with upholstery scissors as opposed to just tearing the cotton.
The seat foams are then laid over the tops. Each bun either has or will have muslin strips glued along the edges to attach the foam to the seat frame. Once lined up, the muslin strips roll up the cotton batting neatly and then you can hog ring them nicely to the frame.
All set for the front seat covers now. I'm going to keep this PG for you guys and skip all the cursing, yelling, screaming, stretching, burnt fingers and hundreds of hog rings that were attached, cut off and then new ones applied again. So here's the cliff-notes....
The cover installation starts with the listing wire for the center inserts. This is were the seats either work.....or fail. You're alignment in this step is what will make or break your upolstery job. Get the centers lined up and your are golden. If they're off......you're doing it all over again! Probably one of the more difficult parts of the job; you have to hold an open hog ring plier loaded with a hog ring and hook a listing wire while pushing it through the seat foam and cotton while barely having enough hog ring to grip the listing wire on the seat......and squeeze the pliers before it pops off......if you miss; you start all over again. Or better yet, you think you have it....all to find out that you missed the wire on the seat and you are cutting off the hog ring and starting over again.....fun stuff.
Once the inserts are hog ringed in place, another layer of cotton is applied over the bolsters on the base and backs. This fills the voids between the cover and foam and tightens them up a bit. The center inserts don't need the extra cotton since foam is stitched into the cover between the seams. Before the cotton goes on, a layer of #10 cheesecloth is laid over the top of the cotton. This faces the seat cover side and makes it easier for the seat cover to stretch over the cotton without the seat cover grabbing the cotton and pulling it out of place.
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64Rivi
Promoted Users
After all that, now it's actually time to cover the seats!
The seat covers are stretched over the side with one hand while simultaneously tucking the foam and cotton with the other. This keeps everything in place while stretching the cover and keeps you from pulling everything out of place when stretching the cover over the frame and foam. I did these seats in leather which is always a pleasure to work with compared to vinyl. The only down side is that the seat covers are only leather where your body touches the seats. The sides and backs are still made with vinyl so it makes stretching a bit more of a challenge- especially if the vinyl is cold.
A blow dryer works great for warming up the vinyl and making it much more pliable prior to stretching the cover. Unfortunately, I don't have picture of that process since your hands are pretty full and you can't stop and walk away to take pictures. You are basically stretching, manipulating and holding things in place while silpping a hog ring in along the way to hold it. If you let it go while doing it, it's a crap shoot as to where you have to start again!
After the fronts were attached to the front seat backs, the back stretches over the top. Attaching the seat back is akin to wrapping a Christmas gift... a lot of detail to get it just right.
Once the covers were all set, I steamed all the leather and vinyl to tighten everything up a bit.
And the finished front seat base and back:
The seat covers are stretched over the side with one hand while simultaneously tucking the foam and cotton with the other. This keeps everything in place while stretching the cover and keeps you from pulling everything out of place when stretching the cover over the frame and foam. I did these seats in leather which is always a pleasure to work with compared to vinyl. The only down side is that the seat covers are only leather where your body touches the seats. The sides and backs are still made with vinyl so it makes stretching a bit more of a challenge- especially if the vinyl is cold.
A blow dryer works great for warming up the vinyl and making it much more pliable prior to stretching the cover. Unfortunately, I don't have picture of that process since your hands are pretty full and you can't stop and walk away to take pictures. You are basically stretching, manipulating and holding things in place while silpping a hog ring in along the way to hold it. If you let it go while doing it, it's a crap shoot as to where you have to start again!
After the fronts were attached to the front seat backs, the back stretches over the top. Attaching the seat back is akin to wrapping a Christmas gift... a lot of detail to get it just right.
Once the covers were all set, I steamed all the leather and vinyl to tighten everything up a bit.
And the finished front seat base and back:
You really lucked out with the seat backs being open on the sides and bottom, allowing you to be able to pull and hog ring the front and back on three sides is a lot better than the bag tri 5 chevys have, with just an opening at the bottom. Have to use a plastic trash bag on the seat back and just keep pulling cover off--fill in more--then try again. I must have had the seat backs off and back on at least 100 times to get them tightly fitted. Great job finding all the exact materials that the factory used. Its surprising how similar everything looks, even though there is almost 10 years between the two cars, and buckets VS bench seat.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
Sorry for the lapse in time from my previous post. Got lazy with my updates again once the holidays hit.
Picking up where I left off.....time for the rear seats. Again, this was the interesting part as there are no viable options for replacing the seat foams in the rear. The rear foams are a one-off and not available. Well, I shouldn't say that; OPGI is the only one that makes a reproduction rear seat foam for the first generation Riviera but they are not a viable option (in my opinion). I bought a set only to find out that the foam they used is such a high density, you would basically tear your seat covers at the seam trying to stretch them over the foam. They cannot be used so it was the last resort to make new ones from scratch.
Finding the right foam is the important part. The original foams are made from natural latex foam which is soft and supple and lasts a long time. Most don't use it any longer since it is expensive. You'll find it in higher end upholstery applications so you're pretty much using polyurethane foams which just don't have the same feel and bounce. I tried multiple samples and found that the Super Max foam from The Foam Factory was the right density and feel for the seats. I bought slabs in 3/4, 1 and 2-inch to piece together the foams into the correct shapes.
First thing I did was section the old seat foams into quarters to get an idea of the 3-dimensional shape and make patterns to match.
A cheap electric carving knife cuts the foam effortlessly and gives you a decent amount of control when contouring the shapes. Just don't force it and let the knife do the work. If you push too hard, you'll compress the foam and your lines will get wonky. A light touch will get you straight cuts.
The seat foams have recesses in them where the listing wire from the seat cover passes through in order to attach to the listing wire on the seat frames. You have to get creative with the cuts in order to leave a little material on the bottom so you can glue the foam together. Kind of like make a dado in the foam.
Using the various thicknesses of foam, the seat base was pieced together to match the original rough shape. Once all glued together, you can use the carving knife to finesse the shape. I also used a 3-inch, 80-grit disc to round the edges where needed. The key there is a light touch and higher rpm so you don't grab and rip the foam as you try and shape it. You don't have to get too, too critical with the final shape since cotton batting will overlay the foam to fill the voids and form the final shape that will be dictated by the seat cover shape. The seat cover shape is fixed; the foam and cotton will compress to fit inside as the covers are stretched over the assembly.
Strips of cotton batting are glued along the outside edge which will be used to secure the foam to the seat frame with hog rings. Strips are also applied over the recesses for the listing wire in order to reinforce the foam so the foam doesn't tear apart when the hog rings are clipped through the thin foam in those areas.
Side by side against the partial old seat foam.
And a view from the bottom once the foams are hog ringed in place along the cotton batting.
And the rear cover procedures are the same as the front seats. Once the cover is aligned, the listing wire from the middle inserts are attached first. Cotton batting is applied to the outside bolsters before stretching the rest of the cover over the sides and hog ringing the cover into place.
A little steam to get the wrinkles out and the seat bases are done!
Picking up where I left off.....time for the rear seats. Again, this was the interesting part as there are no viable options for replacing the seat foams in the rear. The rear foams are a one-off and not available. Well, I shouldn't say that; OPGI is the only one that makes a reproduction rear seat foam for the first generation Riviera but they are not a viable option (in my opinion). I bought a set only to find out that the foam they used is such a high density, you would basically tear your seat covers at the seam trying to stretch them over the foam. They cannot be used so it was the last resort to make new ones from scratch.
Finding the right foam is the important part. The original foams are made from natural latex foam which is soft and supple and lasts a long time. Most don't use it any longer since it is expensive. You'll find it in higher end upholstery applications so you're pretty much using polyurethane foams which just don't have the same feel and bounce. I tried multiple samples and found that the Super Max foam from The Foam Factory was the right density and feel for the seats. I bought slabs in 3/4, 1 and 2-inch to piece together the foams into the correct shapes.
First thing I did was section the old seat foams into quarters to get an idea of the 3-dimensional shape and make patterns to match.
A cheap electric carving knife cuts the foam effortlessly and gives you a decent amount of control when contouring the shapes. Just don't force it and let the knife do the work. If you push too hard, you'll compress the foam and your lines will get wonky. A light touch will get you straight cuts.
The seat foams have recesses in them where the listing wire from the seat cover passes through in order to attach to the listing wire on the seat frames. You have to get creative with the cuts in order to leave a little material on the bottom so you can glue the foam together. Kind of like make a dado in the foam.
Using the various thicknesses of foam, the seat base was pieced together to match the original rough shape. Once all glued together, you can use the carving knife to finesse the shape. I also used a 3-inch, 80-grit disc to round the edges where needed. The key there is a light touch and higher rpm so you don't grab and rip the foam as you try and shape it. You don't have to get too, too critical with the final shape since cotton batting will overlay the foam to fill the voids and form the final shape that will be dictated by the seat cover shape. The seat cover shape is fixed; the foam and cotton will compress to fit inside as the covers are stretched over the assembly.
Strips of cotton batting are glued along the outside edge which will be used to secure the foam to the seat frame with hog rings. Strips are also applied over the recesses for the listing wire in order to reinforce the foam so the foam doesn't tear apart when the hog rings are clipped through the thin foam in those areas.
Side by side against the partial old seat foam.
And a view from the bottom once the foams are hog ringed in place along the cotton batting.
And the rear cover procedures are the same as the front seats. Once the cover is aligned, the listing wire from the middle inserts are attached first. Cotton batting is applied to the outside bolsters before stretching the rest of the cover over the sides and hog ringing the cover into place.
A little steam to get the wrinkles out and the seat bases are done!
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'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Great job.
I had to do the same on a 1965 Buick Special Convertible I did for a guy many moons ago. Not near the quality of your work but I do understand the time and money involved.
I had to do the same on a 1965 Buick Special Convertible I did for a guy many moons ago. Not near the quality of your work but I do understand the time and money involved.