1966 Mustang Coupe Restomod

Sprayed a little epoxy to keep it from getting any surface rust

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Brian is starting on the other side. Bolted on the stone guard and front valance to keep everything lined up.

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Left side

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Welds ground

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Looking good. Any smoothing out such as flushing lights not only looks good, but helps out whenever washing the completed project
 
The original front fender flare has to be cut out

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The fenders were sanded to bare metal and epoxy primed

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We did a little bodywork on the inside of the fenders and epoxy primed

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I have the second Rod & Custom rear suspension kit sold on my 1968 Coupe and it fit great. We can get the car real low if we want. The kit has been redesigned and it is a little harder to install and you cannot get it as low as my car.

The upper shock mount now has heim joints because I'm sure not all early Mustangs have the same distance between the frame rails. Tack welded in place

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Upper control arm crossmember and rear end brackets tack welded in place

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Installing the rear coilover shocks

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Everything was installed according to the directions and this is the lowest it would go.

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After talking to Rod & Custom they said to turn the lower shock mount over

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This is the ride height now with no weight in the car

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With weight in the car I think the ride height will be about right

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Welded the rear valance in place

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Welds ground

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We wanted to do something different for the exhaust. We cut the exhaust outlets from a 1967 valance but had to make it a little larger to fit our tail pipes

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Welds ground

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Hi Rusty, Is it possible to show some pictures of the work to the inner wheel wells after the guard flares. If no pictures perhaps descriptions.
Cheers..... Ray
 
Fixing the trunk gap

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The owner wanted a spoiler but did not like how tall it was so we lowered the Mustangs to Fear spoiler and end caps about 1". It will be straight with the top of the quarter

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Spoiler cut and test fitting

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The end caps were bolted, bonded and fiberglass mat added to the quarter panel

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The spoiler was bonded to the deck lid and fiberglass mat added

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Killer looking ride. I have a 1965 mustang my self, it had a 289 bored 60 over performer intake carb lots. Custom made by me rand and pinion steering. It even puts out full lock to lock travel. No kit for these cars do that at all except when you change to mustang ii front suspension. My car also has custom dual bowl power disc brakes and factory air conditioning. I was curious about two things one are you on MustangSteveis forum as well it's all about stangs. And did you flare the rear quarter wheel wells? Those look they have a ton more than my 65.
 
"And did you flare the rear quarter wheel wells? Those look they have a ton more than my 65."
They did, see page 3 of this thread.
 
I epoxy primed the body

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Block sanded and a little more bodywork

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One coat of SPI epoxy primer

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Two coats of SPI Turbo primer

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Looking slick! When you only spray one coat of epoxy is that because you have not cut through to bare metal in a large area?
 
We took the body off the rotisserie and mounted it on a cart so I could finish the taillight panel and rear valance. I block sanded one more time

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Epoxy primed

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We want to test fit everything before paint. Starting installing the Rod & Custom suspension

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Back on the ground

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Getting ready to install the 347 engine and TKO transmission. Those hoses got to go.

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Engine and trans installed

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Ididit steering column with a Billet Specialties wheel

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A few more photos

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Brian has the sheetmetal lined up.

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Test fitting the new Stang-Aholics front valance

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The gas filler will have to be moved down a little because the cap hits the deck lid.

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I have been busy working in the shop and I need to update

I block sanded the fiberglass hood

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Sprayed one coat of SPI black epoxy

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Two Coats of SPI Turbo primer

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Block sanded again

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Two coats of SPI epoxy

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The fiberglass bumper did not fit our car. The center section did not line up with the lower valance and the bumper was to narrow.
I cut the center out of the bumper and had to modify the holes in the taillight panel to get the bumper lowered.

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I used Duraglass to attach the brackets to the bumper. Later I added a couple layers of fiberglass to hold them in place

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This shows you have much I need to add to the left side

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I added fiberglass to the top to hold it in place

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I clamped it to a long piece of angle and added fiberglass on the back side.

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I removed the braces and clamps and finished adding fiberglass to both sides and this is how it looks now. I still have to work on the gaps.

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