1966 Valiant for the Other Daughter....

Just out of my own curiosity, and since 3M has a manufacturing plant in my state, I drove up there today to find an answer to the silicone paste question and how to remove it. Here is the email response I received when I got home.


Hi Mike,

I recommend using 3m General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, 08984, to remove your silicone paste.

If you have any further questions/concerns, please don't hesitate to contact us.

Thank you,

Jared S
3M Product Application Support

3M Center | Building 225-3S-05
St. Paul, MN 55144 | United States
1-877-666-2277 (1-877-MMM-CARS), opt. 3, 3
www.3M.com/Automotive



Case Reference: ref:_00Do0KvQR._5002Kuh6n0:ref
Wow thanks man!
 
So what do you guys think (@MP&C). Should I put this piece in first so I can get all the lines and trunk alignment correct then cut where Robert suggested for the lower half and do that separate or try to graft the two pieces to one and then install. I started out thinking the second but the first seems more manageable by myself or limited help.

I would personally add the good tops (from MI) to your sides first. This allows you to do planishing with better access to the back side over fighting inaccessibility with it welded in place. Plus the remaining welds once you have a good "one piece quarter" will largely be plug welds or spot welds, will they not?
 
I would personally add the good tops (from MI) to your sides first. This allows you to do planishing with better access to the back side over fighting inaccessibility with it welded in place. Plus the remaining welds once you have a good "one piece quarter" will largely be plug welds or spot welds, will they not?

yes they will all be spot/plug welds. Thanks Robert
 
Started for town to get more blasting media and gas for the welder but came upon a grass fire and the road was closed... turned around and got some ice cream at the corner shop and worked till I ran out of media....

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Needed to double up for the new sandblaster but she now will run until I want out from under the helmet. The perfect cocktail is 50/50 medium coal slag and Starblast. Trunk will be the most rust free of ALL the cars! The trunk pan will be here next week and my benefactor (@cosgig) has sent the quarter panel upper from the rusted out beast who was laid to rest this weekend. She gave till the end. Notice the ONLY way to eradicate the cancerous rust is to beat it all out with the media blaster, NOT cover it up with snake oil like POR-15...

Oh and why does this SOB have 1/2" of undercoating in the wheel wells..... I am dreading that job...

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If that undercoating is hard I usually go at it with an air chisel at a shallow angle and it almost falls off.

Don
 
@JimKueneman , there is also a rotary tool that Snap-On branded as the "Crud Thug," it's made to remove heavy undercoating. I think there are also knock offs that might not be as pricey.
 
SPI related. Got a new shipment and there is a paper that says NO induction is required for epoxy. What the h-e-double toothpicks is going on in this world today.

Interesting........ I know I read somewhere that the best UV protection for the epoxy primer is a 4 hour induction? I was planning to do this seeing as I have the time to do so.
 
Just make sure it's stirred very well. I always wait few minutes anyway. Gives me time to make sure everything else is ready before spraying.
 
Interesting........ I know I read somewhere that the best UV protection for the epoxy primer is a 4 hour induction? I was planning to do this seeing as I have the time to do so.

also in the paper. There were a few material that can be sprayed with no induction (metals mostly) the 30 minutes for anything and 4 hours for exposure to UV.
 
SPI related. Got a new shipment and there is a paper that says NO induction is required for epoxy. What the h-e-double toothpicks is going on in this world today.
I confess that in all the years I have been using SPI, I have hardly ever let epoxy induce for 30 minutes.

Generally, I mix the epoxy and then tack off the already cleaned panel, stir the epoxy again and spray it. There have even been times when I didn't mix enough to finish the job and mixed some up and sprayed it immediately. Never had a problem with it ever.
 
The wind was blowing so it was not too hot out so I attacked the Valiant... FINALLY I can see some FORWARD progress taking shape! Geoffrey Galliher sent me this patch panel in "The Box" and it is almost fitted! A bit of blasting and some epoxy primer and this side is going to start coming back together! And yes I sucked it up and did it the way @MP&C (Robert) suggested.... a crap load of prep work but man it will save a lot of time on the back end.... no butt welds at all..... just factory like spot welds....

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Two pieces makes one mostly complete quarter panel! I burned up the last tool I have of my late fathers so I had to stop for the day..... needed booze.... it got me through 3 cars though... he passed away a few months before the Coronet was ready to drive so he never got to see any of them...

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Looks great Jim. I like the profile templates you made, that is pretty clever. One suggestion, try to make sure you have good clean metal on both sides of both pieces when you butt weld. No paint or rust etc.

Don
 
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