JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
What's happening with the GTX!
1968 Plymouth GTX
- Thread starter '68 Coronet R/T
- Start date
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Life has gotten in the way.
I have a great big list of maintenance to be done on our house and property.
Two projects for other people going on with a third begging for a spot in line.
GTX is sitting in epoxy so not worried about rust. Hope to get back to it but it may be a couple of months.
I have a great big list of maintenance to be done on our house and property.
Two projects for other people going on with a third begging for a spot in line.
GTX is sitting in epoxy so not worried about rust. Hope to get back to it but it may be a couple of months.
How are you guys able to spray the first coat of epoxy that wet. If I tried that, I would have a swiss cheese mess. It seems I always have to spray a tack coat (very light) first. Then I can go after it with a nice wet coat. I have addressed cleanliness, clean air, etc. Results are the same every single time. Swiss cheese on bare metal if it's not super light. Very nice work BTW. I love GTXs.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Lots and lots of air pressure on the first coat has solved the dimpling issues with the epoxy for me.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I spray the epoxy primer like I would a base coat. Use a 1.4 tip and 50% overlap and do strive for full coverage on the first coat. The second coat is applied the same way and will usually produce a nice satin sheen to the black epoxy.
White epoxy is much more difficult to spray because of two reasons. First it doesn't cover as well as the black so you (I) tend to spray it too heavy instead of treating it like a base coat. Second, as the subsequent coat(s) begins to produce coverage it can be difficult to see because of the snow blind effect you get when spraying white.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Well I went ahead and ordered the new roof skin, drip rails, floor pan and trunk floor. These are AMD parts ordered through Summit Racing. Each one had an extra freight charge so I called and got them to drop ship everything from AMD to my house for one charge of $119.00.
Still have to finish the Dodge Dakota I have in my driveway (belongs to same guy that owns the freightliner) and then I can get back to my project.
Still have to finish the Dodge Dakota I have in my driveway (belongs to same guy that owns the freightliner) and then I can get back to my project.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
That may be because you live much closer than I do. Plus Summit had a sale going and knocked $100 off the package price.
Leonard1
Professional Amateur
You're probably right. All my parts were small enough to avoid truck freight...
Sparky
Promoted Users
Sweet Build 68!!
Man when you get going you sure get a lot done. I'm subb'ed up for the rest of this build. What kind of media do you shoot through your blaster? I think I saw someone comment that it is a HF blaster.
Before you Epoxy, do you clean with wax and grease remover after a part is media blasted? I've read conflicting opinions elsewhere.
I read your post regarding Wray Schelin and his DVD and tools. I love his videos on the Tube. His shop is in Chalton MA, about 40 minutes from me. I want to take one of his courses someday. Another sheet metal legend Fay Butler lives about 10 minutes from me in Wheelwright, MA. Jesse James and other celebrity motorheads have studied with him. He helped me understand what kind of vintage body tools to look for, and even dressed, tuned, and modified them when I brought them to his shop to show him what I had accumulated on the Bay. I took him and one of his students to dinner one night to show my appreciation.
Man when you get going you sure get a lot done. I'm subb'ed up for the rest of this build. What kind of media do you shoot through your blaster? I think I saw someone comment that it is a HF blaster.
Before you Epoxy, do you clean with wax and grease remover after a part is media blasted? I've read conflicting opinions elsewhere.
I read your post regarding Wray Schelin and his DVD and tools. I love his videos on the Tube. His shop is in Chalton MA, about 40 minutes from me. I want to take one of his courses someday. Another sheet metal legend Fay Butler lives about 10 minutes from me in Wheelwright, MA. Jesse James and other celebrity motorheads have studied with him. He helped me understand what kind of vintage body tools to look for, and even dressed, tuned, and modified them when I brought them to his shop to show him what I had accumulated on the Bay. I took him and one of his students to dinner one night to show my appreciation.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I use 40-70 grit crushed glass in the HF blaster (which someone gave me as I wouldn't give HF my hard earned money). Have a screen in a large funnels and reuse it as I go. It breaks down fairly quickly so I started with the heavily rusted areas first and the work may way to areas with just paint.
In the sandblast cabinet I use glass beads.
My intention is to get better at metal work so that I can do the GTX with epoxy primer only. No heavy filler or build primer if I can manage it.
In the sandblast cabinet I use glass beads.
My intention is to get better at metal work so that I can do the GTX with epoxy primer only. No heavy filler or build primer if I can manage it.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Sparky read this thread before you give Wray any of your hard earned money. https://ce8df029be3e-004671.vbulletin.net/forum/tutorials/videos-online/1967-new-video-by-our-friend
Read the thread and decide for yourself.
Fay Butler would be a far better source for learning. Kent White (https://www.tinmantech.com/) is an excellent and knowledgeable guy as well. He offers classes and DVD's. Peter Tommasini has a 10 DVD set out that will teach you the basics then in DVD 7,8,9 he builds a quarter panel in one piece using only the English wheel and hand tools! Peter has been a lifelong coachbuilder, he learned at Scaglietti in Italy (coachbuilders that did many of the most famous Ferrari's). He understands and is able to convey in a way that you can understand the principles of metalshaping.
Sparky
Promoted Users
Thanks for the heads up Chris. I read that whole thread you posted, and after spent the next 6 hours watching each video that was being discussed, and read all the comments. As a beginner in the autobody / sheet metal world, I have a very limited reference to what is correct and efficient techniques, and what is not. But today, now my point of reference has changed, and I can clearly see that the traditional techniques to shape metal that Pete and Geoff teach result in a cleaner finished product, and in less time. They control the metal all the way through.
I can see a my "How to" DVD collection will be growing soon!
thanks Bud!
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Stocking up!
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Couldn't take it anymore so I started working on my dash.
It is in pretty rough shape and like the rest of the car has rust in unusual places.
check out the mangled support brace.
I purchased a Tachometer to install in the gauge cluster. I'll post pictures of that when installed.
Dismantled everything and taped off VIN tag and the black insulation on wiring hold down tabs. Then started media blasting the rust. Ran out of media so had to stop.
It is in pretty rough shape and like the rest of the car has rust in unusual places.
check out the mangled support brace.
I purchased a Tachometer to install in the gauge cluster. I'll post pictures of that when installed.
Dismantled everything and taped off VIN tag and the black insulation on wiring hold down tabs. Then started media blasting the rust. Ran out of media so had to stop.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Yeah, I am thinking this car sat outside for a while without any windshield in it.
A lot of the cars I work on look like that under the dash, but not on top. It probably has a lot to do with the constant humidity down here. They never got anything more than overspray under there from the factory, then people forgot to roll their windows up and a rain storm came through, or they had a heater core or windshield leaking sometime in their life.