Leonard1
Professional Amateur
You can see it in this pic, on the driver's side of the trans. The steering wheel almost hides it in this pic.
1969 Chevy C10
- Thread starter '68 Coronet R/T
- Start date
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Got it! Thanks Leonard1 you saved me some time.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Installed the Tail light Trim and right bedside molding today.
Stripped the hood and began working the dented metal where it was hit in the front:
No access to the back side without serious dismantling. Used about 40 welding studs to pull it and then tried to get it back in shape.
Obviously more to do but the hood was completely detached from the support structure and oil canning like crazy.
I cleaned up the area where the 3M NVH Dampening material would go and there were spots where the hood was 3/4" away from the structures.
Ended up running a shrinking disc over the hood until I got an even 1/4" spacing along the structure. Of course the NVH material has a 24 hour cure time so no more work on the hood until tomorrow.
Stripped the hood and began working the dented metal where it was hit in the front:
No access to the back side without serious dismantling. Used about 40 welding studs to pull it and then tried to get it back in shape.
Obviously more to do but the hood was completely detached from the support structure and oil canning like crazy.
I cleaned up the area where the 3M NVH Dampening material would go and there were spots where the hood was 3/4" away from the structures.
Ended up running a shrinking disc over the hood until I got an even 1/4" spacing along the structure. Of course the NVH material has a 24 hour cure time so no more work on the hood until tomorrow.
MDPotter
Promoted Users
I cringe when thinking about working on that hood. The hood on our 69 had similar issues - it had a good hit on the front which was fixable, but it was oil canning/sunk in a couple spots and we just don't have the tools and/or skills to make that kind of repair so we ended up buying a new hood. These hoods are notorious for oil canning due to the lack of structure. Good work salvaging it!
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Just a general FYI for anyone who cares. From my experioence working on those hoods (and just in general experience) oil canning is a result of the metal being displaced in the damaged area. Oil canning can be the result of too much metal or stretched, it can also be the result of shrinkage like what occurs in welding. Up to the repairer to determine what it is. Generally though if you haven't welded anything and you have something oil canning it is because there is too much metal there. Get the damage out close to where it should be, and the oil canning will go away.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Got it painted yesterday.
You can see it still has a bit of waviness to it.
For you sharp eyed, detail guys, yes those are drips of clear coat along the bottom edge in the front. I always try to spray clear wet and sometimes little too much so. LOL
You can see it still has a bit of waviness to it.
For you sharp eyed, detail guys, yes those are drips of clear coat along the bottom edge in the front. I always try to spray clear wet and sometimes little too much so. LOL
Chad.S
Oldtimer
Doing hoods is the worst!!!
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
That seems to be the consensus of all you guys I consider pros.
I can say with all certainty that I have no desire to do another one of these.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Notice the line of drops on the floor beneath the hood?
MDPotter
Promoted Users
Well I'm glad I'm not the only one that has struggled with these hoods and has trouble spraying clear now and then.
The hood on my 68 was the original hood and thankfully it was in pretty good shape. Still shakes on the passenger side towards the rear, but what can you do.
The hood on my 68 was the original hood and thankfully it was in pretty good shape. Still shakes on the passenger side towards the rear, but what can you do.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Okay you Chevy professionals, I need some advice.
Got the hood installed today.
The front lines up real good but the back of the hood not so much.
I have lowered the hings as far as I can. Also rotated them to lower the back but this is as far as it will go.
Any suggestions as to how to remedy this would be greatly appreciated.
Here you can see the gap increasing from front to rear.
Got the hood installed today.
The front lines up real good but the back of the hood not so much.
I have lowered the hings as far as I can. Also rotated them to lower the back but this is as far as it will go.
Any suggestions as to how to remedy this would be greatly appreciated.
Here you can see the gap increasing from front to rear.
Just push it down before you deliver it Seriously, they all have a tendency to do that, with original parts or with new hinges and springs, and I don't know why. I would like to hear a remedy, as well. I can usually play with the hinges long enough to make it fit better, but have gone to extremes of slotting holes on some.
Seriously, they all have a tendency to do that, with original parts or with new hinges and springs, and I don't know why. I would like to hear a remedy, as well. I can usually play with the hinges long enough to make it fit better, but have gone to extremes of slotting holes on some.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Yeah, the slotting holes idea is what I am hoping to avoid.Just push it down before you deliver it
I put some lubricant on the hinges and that helped a lot to get them to move smoothly.
Tomorrow, I will loosen all the hinge to fender bolts and see if I can get it to drop some more. It's so close and very frustrating.
sprint_9
Rookie
I think this is right but cant remember for sure. With the hood open loosen the hinge to fender bolts enough that you can move it, then try to open the hood farther, rotating the hinges so the front comes up and the back goes or stays down. If you have them all bottomed rotating it like this might get you to satisfactory results.
Missed part of your reply, looks like you might have already tried this?
Oh well, nothing a set of $700 dollar billet hinges wont fix,. Then you can slot those when they dont fit either.
Missed part of your reply, looks like you might have already tried this?
Oh well, nothing a set of $700 dollar billet hinges wont fix,
. Then you can slot those when they dont fit either.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
The gaps are a little hard to address after paint. Test fitting is recommended. I've seen tight gaps on the front ends of these trucks many times, and there's no way to shim it without it being unsightly, though we did not think twice about that in the '80s. I've had to use blocks of wood and a Porto Power to open those up a bit. Doesn't take much, but it's a dicey proposition on a done rig.