Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Looks good 68!
You are making good time on it.
You are making good time on it.
1969 Chevy C10
- Thread starter '68 Coronet R/T
- Start date
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I want it gone so I can get the other project done, so I can get to MY car.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Got the right side done today as far as floor and rocker panel installation that is.
I'll reinstall the door just to keep it out of my way.
Cut the lower A-pillar rust off on the driver's side and everything looks familiar:
The cowl surround is rusted on this side too and had a nest of some sort in it.
It will all have to wait until Monday.
Also ordered a pint of the blue and white paint codes to see how close they are.
I'll reinstall the door just to keep it out of my way.
Cut the lower A-pillar rust off on the driver's side and everything looks familiar:
The cowl surround is rusted on this side too and had a nest of some sort in it.
It will all have to wait until Monday.
Also ordered a pint of the blue and white paint codes to see how close they are.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
The better the patch fits the easier it is to weld into place.
I struggle with getting the MIG welder set correctly. Welding the seams together is the most difficult for me. I seem to alternate between too much and not enough with the heat and wire feed settings.
My welder has a spot, stitch and continuous switch setting. Once I get the spot/plug weld setting right it's a piece of cake for that part. Just pull and hold the trigger until the welder stops.
I struggle with getting the MIG welder set correctly. Welding the seams together is the most difficult for me. I seem to alternate between too much and not enough with the heat and wire feed settings.
My welder has a spot, stitch and continuous switch setting. Once I get the spot/plug weld setting right it's a piece of cake for that part. Just pull and hold the trigger until the welder stops.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Removed the rusted portion of the kick panel:
Removed most of the rusted outer floor:
To give an idea of how much "fitting" is require on these patch panels. Notice that I have the holes slightly forward of the proper alignment with the holes on the floor support.
I expect the panel holes to be slightly high at this point because the panel is resting on the old metal. However notice that the indentation portion of the patch panels needs to go forward even farther to line up properly.
It is the same on the raised portion:
Once I get it all trimmed and aligned, I will replace the rusted portion of the floor support. And of course media blast the rusted areas.
Removed most of the rusted outer floor:
To give an idea of how much "fitting" is require on these patch panels. Notice that I have the holes slightly forward of the proper alignment with the holes on the floor support.
I expect the panel holes to be slightly high at this point because the panel is resting on the old metal. However notice that the indentation portion of the patch panels needs to go forward even farther to line up properly.
It is the same on the raised portion:
Once I get it all trimmed and aligned, I will replace the rusted portion of the floor support. And of course media blast the rusted areas.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Floor support and outer floor patch welded into place.
A-pillar patch and kick panel patch welded into place.
Rocker panel welded in place:
Installed door for test fit. This door is a replacement and doesn't match the other side. There were no holes for mounting the trim and the mirror mounting holes are not only incorrect, they don't match the passenger side either.
I marked out the trim hole locations and drilled the holes for the upper and lower trim panels.
Notice the mirror mounting holes on the passenger door, which I believe to be original.
Still have a couple of spots to cut rust out and weld patches in and then I can start some hammer and dolly work.
A-pillar patch and kick panel patch welded into place.
Rocker panel welded in place:
Installed door for test fit. This door is a replacement and doesn't match the other side. There were no holes for mounting the trim and the mirror mounting holes are not only incorrect, they don't match the passenger side either.
I marked out the trim hole locations and drilled the holes for the upper and lower trim panels.
Notice the mirror mounting holes on the passenger door, which I believe to be original.
Still have a couple of spots to cut rust out and weld patches in and then I can start some hammer and dolly work.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Cut out rusted area on front of cowl. You can see where I cut and then where the media began making holes:
Ended up cutting a bigger area for the patch:
Took a bit to make this patch due to the rounded corner with a flange edge but finally got it done. I forgot to take a picture of the patch tacked into place.
Here it is in epoxy:
I media blasted and coated the area around the vent as well:
I start working on the cowl vent patches next.
Ended up cutting a bigger area for the patch:
Took a bit to make this patch due to the rounded corner with a flange edge but finally got it done. I forgot to take a picture of the patch tacked into place.
Here it is in epoxy:
I media blasted and coated the area around the vent as well:
I start working on the cowl vent patches next.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I spot welded the overlapped areas at the A-pillar as well.
The rocker panels are a very poor fit. I had to make several cuts in the panels to allow for expansion and to conform to the existing profile.
The rocker panels are a very poor fit. I had to make several cuts in the panels to allow for expansion and to conform to the existing profile.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Fabricated and installed the lower portion of the cowl vent surround:
Brushed on two coat of epoxy and tomorrow I will seam seal the inner edge and fabricate the outer patch to close it all in.
Brushed on two coat of epoxy and tomorrow I will seam seal the inner edge and fabricate the outer patch to close it all in.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Outer patch installed. Couldn't put epoxy on as it was getting late and the temps here are in the mid teens at night.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I reinstalled the inner fender supports and then fenders to check alignment of the panels.
The driver's side looked good but the passenger side rocker panel did not. It seemed to be narrower at the front than the rear even though I had cheated the gap at the floor pan, where the door seal goes, a little already.
So I removed the door and made some cuts to increase the width by about 1/4" at the front portion.
Reassembled everything and and then started pulling dents on the front fender:
The wheel arch portion was really hammered from a previous accident. Caved in nearly 1/2" in places. I need to remove the fender to get access to the back side for final shaping.
Here's what it was like when I got it.
The driver's door is from a newer year model and therefore the mirror mounting holes are different than the stock passenger door.
Owner said he is going with the newer style mirrors and to just weld the holes shut.
The driver's side looked good but the passenger side rocker panel did not. It seemed to be narrower at the front than the rear even though I had cheated the gap at the floor pan, where the door seal goes, a little already.
So I removed the door and made some cuts to increase the width by about 1/4" at the front portion.
Reassembled everything and and then started pulling dents on the front fender:
The wheel arch portion was really hammered from a previous accident. Caved in nearly 1/2" in places. I need to remove the fender to get access to the back side for final shaping.
Here's what it was like when I got it.
The driver's door is from a newer year model and therefore the mirror mounting holes are different than the stock passenger door.
Owner said he is going with the newer style mirrors and to just weld the holes shut.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Media blasting makes all the difference:
Block sanding lightly over this surface will show imperfections that need more attention.
Block sanding lightly over this surface will show imperfections that need more attention.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Did some filler work and then shot two coats of epoxy.
This was the more damaged fender of the two. Still has a few issues but build primer should handle them.
Started working on the bed:
This was the more damaged fender of the two. Still has a few issues but build primer should handle them.
Started working on the bed:
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Spent some time on the wiring.
Put a new set of horns in because the originals were shot. Ran new wire and separate grounds for each of the horns, replaced the horn relay and everything works.
Also, wired in the missing side marker sockets. Found numerous bare spots in the wiring harnesses while getting the new stuff installed.
This was the lead wire for the horns. It was melted all the way across the front of the truck. The lead post on the relay was overheated as well.
Went back to work on the passenger side of the bed and found another rip in the metal inside wheel well.
Gonna have to work this one a little at a time.
Put a new set of horns in because the originals were shot. Ran new wire and separate grounds for each of the horns, replaced the horn relay and everything works.
Also, wired in the missing side marker sockets. Found numerous bare spots in the wiring harnesses while getting the new stuff installed.
This was the lead wire for the horns. It was melted all the way across the front of the truck. The lead post on the relay was overheated as well.
Went back to work on the passenger side of the bed and found another rip in the metal inside wheel well.
Gonna have to work this one a little at a time.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Okay, I got the right side of the bed semi-straightened out. It took a lot of pounding, twisting and pulling, followed by a bit of welding.
The lower portion behind the wheel well was in terrible condition as can be seen here:
I pounded as much out from behind as I possibly could. The bottom lip was dented upward so far that I had to use a crowbar to push it down. Then I used C-clamps to hold an 1 1/2" thick x 3" wide by 12" long piece of steel pressed up against the bottom to use as a dolly and hammered it straight (or close anyway).
Still need to media blast it, epoxy and then start the fine tuning.
I removed the rear bumper to gain some access to the tail light areas. This is the left side and you can see a major rip in the metal.
More indented metal:
Then we have these filling some trim holes:
All of the trim holes on the bed have been dented with a hammer and then filled with glazing putty or filler.
The top rail on the left side at the rear was bent downward and ripped the metal:
I used a pipe wrench to persuade it back into place:
Realigned and ready for welding.
Man, this truck is in rough shape. I tried to talk the owner into buying one already done (about 18k) and then selling this to recoup 8 grand but he likes this thing.
The lower portion behind the wheel well was in terrible condition as can be seen here:
I pounded as much out from behind as I possibly could. The bottom lip was dented upward so far that I had to use a crowbar to push it down. Then I used C-clamps to hold an 1 1/2" thick x 3" wide by 12" long piece of steel pressed up against the bottom to use as a dolly and hammered it straight (or close anyway).
Still need to media blast it, epoxy and then start the fine tuning.
I removed the rear bumper to gain some access to the tail light areas. This is the left side and you can see a major rip in the metal.
More indented metal:
Then we have these filling some trim holes:
All of the trim holes on the bed have been dented with a hammer and then filled with glazing putty or filler.
The top rail on the left side at the rear was bent downward and ripped the metal:
I used a pipe wrench to persuade it back into place:
Realigned and ready for welding.
Man, this truck is in rough shape. I tried to talk the owner into buying one already done (about 18k) and then selling this to recoup 8 grand but he likes this thing.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
I don't know if this will make you feel better or worse, but what you've shown is not too far out of the ordinary for that kind of truck. To me the worst parts are always the floor, floor braces, and rockers. They are almost always terrible.