1969 Plymouth Barracuda Restoration Thread

I agree with Mike. Actually I use my good gun with a 2.5mm tip and the ready to spray Weldwood Landau Top glue. It actually cleans up as easy as epoxy with acetone. Oh I threw the HF gun away BEFORE I was done spraying the glue and started using my regular gun.
 
Sprayed sealer and finished coat of paint on the brake/shear/roller tonight. I'll give it two days dry time and reassemble on Monday.

Sanded the old paint with 180 grit and ground down some casting flash. Ready for SPI epoxy.
IMG_20240330_164200_075.jpg


SPI epoxy primed
IMG_20240331_151221_347.jpg


Sprayed High Build primer, sanded and prepped for sealer
IMG_20240410_153211_485.jpg


2k Sealer sprayed
IMG_20240412_172901_657.jpg

IMG_20240412_172956_768.jpg


To be continued next reply......
 
Last edited:
metalman said:
Let me know how that hardener works. I think that Rust oleum is slow to harden by itself.
Click to expand...

You are absolutely correct about being slow to dry straight from the can with no added chemicals. Miss your re-coat window and it could be a week before re-coating. There is also the dreaded "wrinkles" that can happen from re-coating before it has dried when spraying an oil based enamel.

This is what I can tell you up to this point in time. The product has four claims.
1. Increases Gloss
2. Increases Hardness
3. Reduces Dry Time.
4. Compatible to use with oil based enamel paints,

The pictures above where taken 1 hour after spraying. The product was dry to the touch. I was able to re-coat after 1 hour with no wrinkling. I was a bit disappointed with the gloss level when taking the pictures, however, after four hours dry time the paint self leveled and produced a much deeper gloss. As far as Hardness, that's still to be seen.

I thought about adding a couple drops of "Japan Drier" into the paint but decided against it for two reasons.
1. Didn't want to make the paint so hard after curing it became prone to chipping due to having zero flexibility.

2. The color of the Japan Drier is a darkish Bourbon color. I didn't want it to change the color of the White enamel paint.

I give this product Five Stars as to what it says it does up to this point. Product was purchased from Tractor Supply.

IMG_20240413_125808_279.jpg
 
Last edited:
I haven't heard the term "Japan driers" in years. LOL. The Rustoleum aerosols are the same with recoat time. They are not kidding "second coat within 1 hour or after 48 hours". It can still raise up (wrinkle) at the 2 day mark, probably because there is more solvent in the aerosol.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MJM
MJM said:
Now I'm wondering if I should paint the Barracuda with Rust-Oleum? They do make a Gloss Black.

Is it worth the endorsement money....... decisions decisions.
Click to expand...

Don't laugh too much folks. There's a guy with a black El Camino with Rustoleum under 2K clear. It looks terrific and the paint job is about 20 years old. It must be enamel, not lacquer spray bombs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MJM
I have a friend who painted his blazer with rustoleum in black, came out well. Been using rustoleum satin black on many projects and parts for years on the undercarriage and under hood parts. I put a splash of enamel hardener and reduce with acetone. Dry to the touch next day.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MJM
123pugsy said:
Don't laugh too much folks. There's a guy with a black El Camino with Rustoleum under 2K clear. It looks terrific and the paint job is about 20 years old. It must be enamel, not lacquer spray bombs.
Click to expand...

There are a few guys on Youtube who paint cars with Rustoleum. It's been said that to make the Rustoleum last, it must be sprayed with a clear coat, otherwise over time the Rustoleum will chalk out from UV rays. I think those guys just enjoy spray painting and they found a way to do it for under $100 dollars. To each their own, I won't bash them but, I won't be spraying a vehicle using Rustoleum.

I have seen guys on Youtube like "My Friend Pete" He uses Rustoleum and endorses it for under chassis and engine compartment parts.

I've had a few responses about using Rustoleum to spray the Barracuda such as..........

Spray the Barracuda with Rustoleum and I'll come down there and kick your a$$.

Use Rustoleum to spray the Barracuda and I'll have you banned you from SPI.

This is my favorite one, Go for it !!!
 
Last edited:
Get you banned, eh? Ha....

Myself, I would never use it, I only like to see the facts spread rather than BS. It may or may not work, or last every time, to each their own. Why do guys get so upset? If it works, it works.

I spray painted my whole pick up truck with spray bombs, no clear coat. It looked great until it started wrinkling like the salt flats. This was when I just finished being a drunk and had nothing to work with or a place to do it. I probably sprayed it outside, can't remember.
 
MJM said:
You are absolutely correct about being slow to dry straight from the can with no added chemicals. Miss your re-coat window and it could be a week before re-coating. There is also the dreaded "wrinkles" that can happen from re-coating before it has dried when spraying an oil based enamel.

This is what I can tell you up to this point in time. The product has four claims.
1. Increases Gloss
2. Increases Hardness
3. Reduces Dry Time.
4. Compatible to use with oil based enamel paints,

The pictures above where taken 1 hour after spraying. The product was dry to the touch. I was able to re-coat after 1 hour with no wrinkling. I was a bit disappointed with the gloss level when taking the pictures, however, after four hours dry time the paint self leveled and produced a much deeper gloss. As far as Hardness, that's still to be seen.

I thought about adding a couple drops of "Japan Drier" into the paint but decided against it for two reasons.
1. Didn't want to make the paint so hard after curing it became prone to chipping due to having zero flexibility.

2. The color of the Japan Drier is a darkish Bourbon color. I didn't want it to change the color of the White enamel paint.

I give this product Five Stars as to what it says it does up to this point. Product was purchased from Tractor Supply.

View attachment 30695
Click to expand...
I've done something similar and used a catalyst hardener in Rustoleum but used 8 parts paint to 1 part hardener and cut it with xylene to about 21 seconds in a Ford # 4 cup. It will give you some better weathering, abrasion resistance, and gloss retention for outside exposure and film hardness for metal patio furniture, mail boxes, burn barrel covers, utility trailers and the like for a while. For machine parts that don't have a good edge radius, chipping can be bad with impacts if you use it on moving equipment. I thought it worked fine and easier for areas I want to wipe down more frequently to keep clean from grease and oils and pollens, algae and dirt. I used up all the oil based enamels I collected over the last couple of decades and mixed them together for that "custom color"--mid gray in my case.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MJM
Anymore, I don't know what anyone would concern themselves with what products they put on their own car. The cost of materials these days is absolutely retarded so if someone can use something like Rustoleum and get results that make themselves happy then BRAVO!!!

Not that you would actually do this, but I see some youtube content that is "spray can paint job" and to be honest, for what it is, it doesn't look half bad. Then you go to the comment section and my god.......my question is, why does anyone actually give a shit.
 
D.A.T. said:
I've done something similar and used a catalyst hardener in Rustoleum but used 8 parts paint to 1 part hardener and cut it with xylene to about 21 seconds in a Ford # 4 cup. It will give you some better weathering, abrasion resistance, and gloss retention for outside exposure and film hardness for metal patio furniture, mail boxes, burn barrel covers, utility trailers and the like for a while. For machine parts that don't have a good edge radius, chipping can be bad with impacts if you use it on moving equipment. I thought it worked fine and easier for areas I want to wipe down more frequently to keep clean from grease and oils and pollens, algae and dirt. I used up all the oil based enamels I collected over the last couple of decades and mixed them together for that "custom color"--mid gray in my case.
Click to expand...
That sounds like a pretty good formula for exterior use. I feel a bit better using Rust-Oleun now that I've read you use it for varies projects.
 
Last edited:
OJ86 said:
Anymore, I don't know what anyone would concern themselves with what products they put on their own car. The cost of materials these days is absolutely retarded so if someone can use something like Rustoleum and get results that make themselves happy then BRAVO!!!

Not that you would actually do this, but I see some youtube content that is "spray can paint job" and to be honest, for what it is, it doesn't look half bad. Then you go to the comment section and my god.......my question is, why does anyone actually give a shit.
Click to expand...

My father pounded it in my head at a young age to keep my opinions about others to myself, until they give me no choice but to voice my opinion.

I've decided to paint the Barracuda with "Testers" model car paint. I just order fifty thousand little bottles in Gloss Black.

Eat your heart out, haters !!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top