1973 Corvette , its time for Strip and paint

R

redvetttes

Resto done in 1998 with a lacquer paint, you know the old school paint you could put on with a mop, wet sand it and it look great
vette.jpg
 
let get to work, 3 gallons of striper later, Wife says it looks like shit, must be doing something right
vette strip1.jpg
 
You should never chemical strip fiberglass, the risk of soaking and not getting it completely washed off can be a real problem.
 
vette3.jpg

It's not my first rodeo ,
lot of paint on there, after striping a good pressure washing and hand washing twice with mean green, then a full out contract hit with 80 grit DA to knock the leftover off it
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You Guys going to love this,
Them a hand blocking with 80 grit, Got to make the old Girl Razor straight,
next is 3 Coats of Epoxy primer, 4 coats of 2K and blocking with 120
Then we can see where were at
vette4.jpg
 
Barry, wish we had these 25 years ago,
what did we do back then ? roll up sandpaper in a circle
blocks.jpg
 
All the old paint it gone,
are you saying I should block the Epoxy Primer ?
I thought that was a sealer and you don't block it ?
never shot epoxy
vette 5.jpg
vette6.jpg
 
Some of us on here only use epoxy and no 2k. Vettes especially. 3 coats with a 1.5 tip give decent fill. 2-3 blocking rounds of 3 coats should straighten it out.

I prefer blocking epoxy over 2k. No need for guide coat since it dries semi-gloss. The 2k is a good product also and I used it on the last 2 jobs to speed up the time. I'd just shy from putting 7 coats of product on at once.

I'd be worried about the primer that is left on the body. If any of the stripper is soaked into it then it might be a problem. Take it all off since your almost there.

If it's your first time shooting the epoxy then make sure your first coat is just wet enough to cover the body. Don't hose the first or you will have fisheye city. Once the first coat is down the next coats can be heavier.
 
once you use chemstrip you must go to clean glass. any old primer or filler will absorb the chemstrip and rinsing will not remove it.
 
thanks guys, fighting the Buffalo winter for a garage paint job. just want to get the primer down so Ican put some Bondo on some spots,
I always spay a light, tack and kinda dry coat 1st, Give it something to stick to.
I know I'm going to missed the 7 day primer window( ok to shoot over E Pox with sanding) so minght as well do the mud work and block the whole car with 120.
THEN SHOULD I RECOAT WITH EPOXY BEFOR 2K ?
 
I always spray 1 coat of epoxy over bodywork and let it sit 1 day before I put 2k on. I know production shops don't do this so it's not necessary but your not doing the best job if you don't.
 
BTW.... I think your asking for trouble not taking a little longer to get rid of the primer. I always lose when I gamble so I no longer do it.
 
That's an issue we see with stripper, any scrap of primer or paint left on the panel will lift up when hit with epoxy. Our stripping methods are media blasting and sanding only now, it's just too risky otherwise. But, there's always the possibility that someone can get away with it because they live a charmed life. That's not me, though.
 
It may not be your first rodeo and it surely would not be mine either, everyone is just wanting your job to go without a hitch. I hope you heed the warnings. Shine especially knows glass like the back of his hand and you can take his advice on it to the bank.
 
put down 1 light coat and 2 wet coats, left the heat on 75 for 2 days, its dry now
didn't look that heavy when I shot it, now that's its dry , looks a lot thicker , 120 or 150 block ?
( lots of 80 grit scratches to work thru)?
Have my spots bondo, that's what I wanted to get down, before I go back to work
also have a white guild spay on it


vette p.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top