2.5 tip for SPI 2K primer?

MJM

MJM

Promoted Users
My primer gun has a 2.5 tip. It this acceptable for SPI 2K primer, or should I go with a high build. To tell you the truth, I don't know what the difference is, and what should be used?

Thank you,
 
I have a 1.7 for epoxy and high build, and a 2.5 that I used for spraying Slick Sand. I can tell you that my 1.7 lays out epoxy hands down smoother than my 1.4 does. Get the right size for what you're spraying and you'll get better results.
 
Interesting because my go to epoxy gun has become my spare Iwata LPH400 with a 1.4 tip. It outperforms my Iwata primer gun with a 1.7 by a wide margin.

My Sata 2.5 poly gun lays down Turbo primer very nicely also. I just turn the fluid out 1.5 turns instead of 2 that I use for poly.

I guess my point is the OP has nothing to lose giving it a shot with a 2.5.

Turbo with a 2.5.
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Don
 
Interesting replies. I have my 1.4 tip gun for the spi epoxy primer, and I bought a 2.5 tip gun to spray thicker high build primer. I can get a 2.0 tip to replace the 2.5. So what I'm gathering from the replies is I can use the 2.5 but may need to cut back on the fluid delivery?
 
texasking said:
Do it all the time.
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Okay, ....should I be using a high build primer after the epoxy primer is complete. I mean I know a primer is needed but, when to use high build vs some other type of primer?.......or is 2K really high build and I'm getting terminology mixed up?
 
Never mind, I see spi 2k is high build. Yeah I know, stupid question but, it;s the quality achieved, not how stupid you look getting there.
 
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The condition of the surface after epoxy dictates the next step. It could need anything from filler to just a couple more coats of epoxy. My advice is do not spray a 2K product until the surface does not need any more filler work. In other words, all the low spots and pinholes are filled before 2K. SPI makes 3 different 2K primers. Regular build, high build and Turbo. I use Turbo myself because of the versatility, availability of white, faster through dry, and ease of sanding. It can be mixed 4:1 to 4:1:1 depending on the fill you need. I've sprayed it mixed 4:1:1 with a 1.3 tip, or even a 1.0 touch up gun on small spots. Mixed 4:1, it needs a 1.8 or bigger tip and fills similar to the high build.
 
Understood.....................Seriously Tex, thank you. That was a very detailed explanation that sunk in. I fully understand what you stated.
 
2.5 tip for 2k is great... once you get past the first couple of panels and realize that it isn't Slick Sand so you need to turn the fluid control in a bit and move the gun faster. Oops.

I use my Sata RP 2 1.3 for epoxy, comes out pretty smooth. Choosing between epoxy, 2K, or higher build primers depends on how flat/rough the surface you're spraying over is. I have gotten away with three coats of epoxy over bodywork, then blocking with 180, wetsanding with 4-500, then shooting paint without needing a high build.

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texasking said:
The condition of the surface after epoxy dictates the next step. It could need anything from filler to just a couple more coats of epoxy. My advice is do not spray a 2K product until the surface does not need any more filler work. In other words, all the low spots and pinholes are filled before 2K. SPI makes 3 different 2K primers. Regular build, high build and Turbo. I use Turbo myself because of the versatility, availability of white, faster through dry, and ease of sanding. It can be mixed 4:1 to 4:1:1 depending on the fill you need. I've sprayed it mixed 4:1:1 with a 1.3 tip, or even a 1.0 touch up gun on small spots. Mixed 4:1, it needs a 1.8 or bigger tip and fills similar to the high build.
Click to expand...
Just curious why you recommend not spraying 2k until filler work is done? Is it because its porous?
 
It is one of the most common mistakes made by someone without a lot of experience. They want to get to the primer stage way before it is ready in the name of progress. Filler is not made to go over 2K. Some polyester putties and glazes are ok, but they are made to be applied in small spots and very thin coats. 2K should not be used as filler, which is what happens a lot, if it is sprayed before the filler work is ready. What works well is spraying epoxy wet over filler and fixing all the imperfections before any 2K.
 
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texasking said:
It is one of the most common mistakes made by someone without a lot of experience. They want to get to the primer stage way before it is ready to feel like they are making progress. Filler is not made to go over 2K. Some polyester putties and glazes are ok, but they are made to be applied in small spots and very thin coats. 2K should not be used as filler, which is what happens a lot, if it is sprayed before the filler work is ready. What works well is spraying epoxy wet over filler and fixing all the imperfections before any 2K.
Click to expand...
Thanks
 
texasking said:
It is one of the most common mistakes made by someone without a lot of experience. They want to get to the primer stage way before it is ready to feel like they are making progress. Filler is not made to go over 2K. Some polyester putties and glazes are ok, but they are made to be applied in small spots and very thin coats. 2K should not be used as filler, which is what happens a lot, if it is sprayed before the filler work is ready. What works well is spraying epoxy wet over filler and fixing all the imperfections before any 2K.
Click to expand...

Here is something else to consider. Filler is less expensive than primer. So when you sand your filler your are putting less money in the floor so to speak. If filler work is done right it will be straight without any low places to fill in with primer. That way when primer is sanded it's ready for paint.
 
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