2001 CBR600F4i Restoration

V

VegasCBR

Hi All!

I'm beginning a restoration project on my 2001 CBR600F4i, including re-painting. I've read through the SPI website and the tech sheets, and I -think- this is what I'll need to repaint it, but wanted to check. The frame, gas tank, wheels, and all the bits and bobs are getting repainted (footpegs, kickstand, etc.) but not the fairings. I've rattle-canned my bike before, and have painted the interior of my house with an airless sprayer / roll on / brush on, but this will be my first time painting with an HVLP gun and compressor.

All the pieces will be stripped to bare metal using paint remover, walnut shell blasting, or both. I'm assuming I'll need about a quart of paint, primer, and clear based on my research, but am open to other thoughts.

Product List:
Prep: SPI 700 Wax/Grease Remover

Epoxy Primer: SPI 6700-1 (Activator) + SPI 6620 (Black Primer) - 1 Qt each

Build Primer: SPI 6520-4 (Primer) + SPI 6501-6 (Activator) + SPI 885-1 (Reducer) - 1 Qt Primer, 1/2 Pt Activator, 1 Unit Reducer

Basecoat: SPI 2010-4 (Black Basecoat) + SPI 885-1 (Reducer) - 1 Qt Base, Reducer from the primer

Clear Coat: SPI 4000-1 (Clear) + SPI 4001-4 (Activator) - Qt each

Does that all seem about right? I'm painting the brake calipers as well, but I think I'll need a different high-temp paint for that. I'd think the temp tolerances of the SPI paint should be fine for the frame, though.

Current "before" pics attached. I guess I didn't start taking photos until into the disassembly process.

Sorry if this thread is in the wrong place - I wasn't sure where to ask questions and it will be a restoration!
 

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looks about right. you dont need high temp for your calipers. if your just painting the frame and other metal parts then dont use base/clear. use the spi single stage. base clear would be good for your fairings but ss would be more durable on frame, foot pegs, etc
 
Jim C said:
looks about right. you dont need high temp for your calipers. if your just painting the frame and other metal parts then dont use base/clear. use the spi single stage. base clear would be good for your fairings but ss would be more durable on frame, foot pegs, etc
Click to expand...

Thanks, Jim.

If I can use regular paint, and not the high temp, for the calipers, I may do my gas tank and calipers with the SPI red. It's not the OEM red, but the fairings aren't OEM either so as long as the tank and Accent pieces match that should be ok. Would you recommend the SS on the gas tank, too? I was concerned about chemical durability (esp. gas) but if SS will hold up it would probably be easier.
 
I have painted a ton of calipers and even more tanks. I have used ss and b/c on both. Both will work. I prefer b/c on tanks and fairings but calipers and mechanical parts i always like ss if i can but b/c will work also
 
Dumb question, but Jim do you prep the calipers like anything else? Clean, rough up with 80, shoot epoxy then SS? Also does this apply to car/truck calipers as well?
 
A few more questions as I'm putting together an order sheet:

The SPI FAQ, and some of the threads, talk about frames being left in epoxy without a topcoat. Other portions of the FAQ talk about epoxy needing to be recoated in 2-5 years if it's "not garaged." Yet other threads talk about the black epoxy being used for flat/matte stripes on auto hoods, exposed to the elements, leading to Barry putting in a lot of UV protection. My assumption is that a motorcycle frame would be different to a car frame because of the exposure it gets, so the ss would end up being more durable whether the bike is garaged or not? Possibly it'd be even less durable than a hood stripe because I'm climbing on and off it and whatnot? Jim, what were you using on the motorcycle frames on your site (that weren't color matched to the fairings?)

I've been assuming about two quarts of paint/primer (not including reducers/activators) to paint basically everything but fairings - more or less one black and one red. Is that about right, or is a novice likely to need more? The red is basically just tank and calipers so I feel fairly comfortable with that. I'm more nervy about estimating the black. If I get the ss it only comes in a gallon, which seems like too much. I really don't want to run out, though. The primers are also tricky. The red paint seems best matched with a white primer. If I just epoxy the black parts, a gallon seems about right. If I get the ss, would it be fine over a white epoxy, or should I be getting black epoxy for the black parts regardless.

Any special considerations painting in Vegas? It was in the 70s until recently, but summer came up quick and it looks like it'll be 90+ (but dry) from here on out. I was planning on "very slow" activators wherever they're needed, but should I be thinking about very slow reducers, too? I won't be painting in direct sunlight, but it's likely to be very warm ambient temps.

Is there a benefit to the build primer if there aren't any significant body repairs that need done, or is shooting ss/base over epoxy about the same?

I've got a couple of order lists going, one about $700 and one about $425, and keep going back and forth on what to do. I'd rather do it right once than have to tear it apart in 5 years or so, but also don't want to spend a bunch extra because I'm ignorant ;)

Unrelated, but Jim, these wheels. Mwah!
 
Ok you arent going to want to leave anything in epoxy. Its ok for under hood or undercarriage parts on a car but it will never fly on a bike. The epoxy looks ok but will never look real nice like when its painted. Qts are fine. Even that is prob alot. I could do a sportbike fram, swingarm and all the small parts with prob a pint of ss. White or grey is better under red than black. Those wheels i the link were blasted, epoxy then all base clear.
 
Just a quick update - Still in the cleaning / repairing / parts phase. Bike is as apart as it can be unless I want to dig into the engine (I don't.) Some parts are on order, but I'm nearly at the point where I can start getting paint.
 

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