58 vette, epoxy only no 2k primer before base?

Zbc51

New Member
newbie here.

im working on a 58 vette. Is it possible to do all the body work and then spray spi epoxy. Could the spi epoxy be blocked all the way to 600 and then use reduced epoxy as a sealer before the bc is sparayed? Could you avoid the use of 2k urethane primer ?

thamks
 
If it’s outside of the redcoat window can you just appy an epoxy sealer coat over the 600 sanded primer and then go to base coat ?
 
If it’s outside of the redcoat window can you just appy an epoxy sealer coat over the 600 sanded primer and then go to base coat ?
 
Thanks Chris,
If you sand the cured epoxy to 180 and if you were happy with the blocking could you apply 2 coats of epoxy and then go directly to base coat ?

If the panels are blocked properly do you need the 2k primer coat ?
 
Thanks Chris,
If you sand the cured epoxy to 180 and if you were happy with the blocking could you apply 2 coats of epoxy and then go directly to base coat ?

If the panels are blocked properly do you need the 2k primer coat ?
No. You would need to sand the epoxy just applied. Like I said in the post above epoxy is solvent resistant when cured. So when you sand with 180 and reapply epoxy you are back in the "window" and can apply coatings over it and be ensured you have maximum adhesion. If you 180 then apply 2 more coats of epoxy you need to sand that to flatten and remove texture etc. Just like any other coating. 400 wet for a solid and 600 wet for a metallic are what I normally finish with. You have about 14 days from when you apply the epoxy to when you need to seal it and paint in order to ensure max adhesion.

The 2K urethane mentioned was offered as an option for someone who couldn't do everything in the window. Read that post again. It should become clear. Read the Tech Manual section covering epoxy also. It should become clear. Keep asking questions if you have them.:)
 
Thank you!
I’m just a beginner

Chris, so you prefer to do everything in epoxy and avoid 2k?

On a side note this is another project I’m working on (62 vette ) that I have in final prime. On that car I did the body work, then gel coat, then slick sand and then 2 k primed. I just learned about the spi epoxy and was hoping to save a couple of different layers of product .
 

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Just adding my $.02, having done 10+ c1 and c2 cars, I would suggest not using epoxy as a build layer on these cars unless you've done a magnificent job of skim coating and blocking the body first. The build with epoxy is too thin and the cars are too imperfect (ie wavy).
 
I’m working on my 62 right now . But planning my course of attack for the 58. I have most of the mechanicals done on the 58.
It is a restomod with a 427” ls3 /4l80e with a custom twin turbo system fabricated by a race shop. It sits on a Sriii frame. I lowered the floor 5” and stretched the firewall 3 “
 

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Just adding my $.02, having done 10+ c1 and c2 cars, I would suggest not using epoxy as a build layer on these cars unless you've done a magnificent job of skim coating and blocking the body first. The build with epoxy is too thin and the cars are too imperfect (ie wavy).
Ken do you use epoxy after your filler work and then use polyester primer and the 2k high build and then epoxy sealer ?
 
I've done many combination of many paints including SPI epoxy, turbo, 2k high build, clausen rust defender, clausen sandy, slicksand, featherfill, evercoat superbuild 4.1, USC eliminator and one of the Duratec primers. I'm doing the body work on a 58 and 61 now and intend to start with Clausen Sandy over the fiberglass (and filler) and will sand that through to 600, then use SPI epoxy as a sealer, then basecoat.

Here is the 58
And here is the recently completed 63 https://sricemedia.smugmug.com/Automotive-/Paint-Protection-Dallas-2025/63-Corvette-Restomod-11325
 
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