64 Pontiac GTO - Basket case to beautiful (I hope)

123pugsy said:
I'll take a stab at this.
I dabble in a bit of metal shaping.
I'll guess that he wants to planish the weld and get the panel into correct shape knocking on only the weld HAZ. (Heat affected zone). If he welded up the small holes, he wouldn't know which heat caused the shrinkage that was tugging on the panel causing any waves. Just a guess.
Then weld up the holes and if any waves occur in the panel, he will know they are from the new welds and not the main weld. He would then planish lightly on these new welds until the panel is back to perfection.

Does any of that even make sense? I'm having a hard time following it and I wrote it.
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That is a very astute observation with a high plausibility of accuracy. The answer was looking at me right in the face and I couldn't see it.

Thank you for your view point, I actually feel a bit smarter.
 
I see a metal craftsman (cam) performing a task to the highest level of craftsmanship and I'd like to learn as much as I can from his knowledge. I understand some are not willing to share that information, but some will share and I'm all ears (eyes) in this case, to learn.
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I told Cam I was going to give away his secrets...He said "spread the knowledge". So here we go...

How did he weld the quarter on TIG , oxy acet? beautiful work!
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Welded with a Lincoln Precision TIG 275 at 50 amps, pulsing the pedal...

Why is he not welding up the cam lock holes before he metal finishes the panel? He has a reason for his means and method for filling in the cam holes last and metal finishing the panel again. For my own edification, what is it?
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His reply in his own words: "As for the Cleco holes, there is a bit of a process...once the proper panel and joint fit up is achieved, the parts are tacked together at 3/4" intervals, generally starting from one end and working to the other. As the joint pulls together, as the tacks shrink, I hammer them back to bring the fit back to proper and continue tacking. Repeat as necessary until tacked across the joint. When finished, the joint usually takes just a quick pass to set the shape, if there are any discrepancies, which leaves it ready for welding.

At this point, with proper shape achieved and tension relieved, how the panel reacts to the weld is fairly predictable and minimal. As the heat is input into the panel only along the weld joint, the heat input and therefore the shrinking and distortion happen at a consistent rate, along the minimum area, without adding any peripheral distortion. Once the weld joint is finished, the Cleco holes are small and weld shut quickly with a blast from either MIG or TIG, and usually distort fairly lightly, needing only a couple of minutes each to correct. I have just found it easier and faster to do it this way as it allows work to be done one step at a time, eliminating variables that may interfere with each other, and give false or confusing info when reading the panel after it moved around from all the welding. They can also act as little windows to locate the dolly, if you're in a spot where locating your dolly be feel is being less than agreeable.

Simply put, it keeps distortion to a minimum during the weld of the joint, which makes finishing faster and easier on both steps. The usually distort very little when welded shut while in shape. Many times they will move like a B..tch if the rigidity is put back in the panel first."
 
1_Wild_Cat said:
I told Cam I was going to give away his secrets...He said "spread the knowledge". So here we go...


Welded with a Lincoln Precision TIG 275 at 50 amps, pulsing the pedal...



His reply in his own words: "As for the Cleco holes, there is a bit of a process...once the proper panel and joint fit up is achieved, the parts are tacked together at 3/4" intervals, generally starting from one end and working to the other. As the joint pulls together, as the tacks shrink, I hammer them back to bring the fit back to proper and continue tacking. Repeat as necessary until tacked across the joint. When finished, the joint usually takes just a quick pass to set the shape, if there are any discrepancies, which leaves it ready for welding.

At this point, with proper shape achieved and tension relieved, how the panel reacts to the weld is fairly predictable and minimal. As the heat is input into the panel only along the weld joint, the heat input and therefore the shrinking and distortion happen at a consistent rate, along the minimum area, without adding any peripheral distortion. Once the weld joint is finished, the Cleco holes are small and weld shut quickly with a blast from either MIG or TIG, and usually distort fairly lightly, needing only a couple of minutes each to correct. I have just found it easier and faster to do it this way as it allows work to be done one step at a time, eliminating variables that may interfere with each other, and give false or confusing info when reading the panel after it moved around from all the welding. They can also act as little windows to locate the dolly, if you're in a spot where locating your dolly be feel is being less than agreeable.

Simply put, it keeps distortion to a minimum during the weld of the joint, which makes finishing faster and easier on both steps. The usually distort very little when welded shut while in shape. Many times they will move like a B..tch if the rigidity is put back in the panel first."
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Thank you very much for the detailed reply. One thing I've noticed with the fellas who perform what appears to us mortals as flawless metal work, is the consistent methods used. They are very similar if not exactly the same. Pugsly was pretty spot on with his reply. He too is very proficient with metals.

I have a much better understanding how to work metal from reading here, and hands on experience over the last two years, mig welding and planishing.

Tig welding sheet metal is still kicking my ass, and it pisses me off I haven't got the hang of it. This winter I'm going to take a different approach to tig welding, and tig weld thicker material as practice. I'll use 1/16" material. I hoping the thicker material will help me learn puddle control, speed, adding filler and maintaining a consistent HAZ.

I'm going to be very disappointed in myself if I can't learn to tig sheet metal.

Thanks again for your time,
 
Yes, thicker is the key. Make sure that if you need glasses, wear them. I use 3.0 reading glasses to see the crack between the two sheets.
16 ga, go 60 amps, place a drop of small filler rod every 1/4" of 1/16 filler every 3/8" of travel. Check the back for penetration.
 
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Clecos welded up and the panel in final finish...Cam says "The last of the major body work is done!". I hope he hasn't jinxed us with his blanket statement (Haha).

QuarterFinal3.jpg

QuarterFinal2.jpg

QuarterFinal1.jpg
 
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