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65 Buick Gran Sport

#1
Hey all. First post. First time painting.

Used the 3M Accuspray gun with a 1.4 nozzle. Hard to get a good pic of black epoxy. To the naked eye the finish is a little grainy. Probably has something to do with the air or fluid adjustments but not sure which. Can see some sanding scratches which should go away with the 2K Primer. A couple areas will need a little filler. Also, had a heck of a time getting paint from the can to the pps cup and if you tilt the cup after the paint is in there you can't really read the level very well for mixing activator. Probably making many mistakes so any comments are more than welcome.

Dwaine
Black Epoxy 1.jpg Black Epoxy 2.jpg Black Epoxy 3.jpg Black Epoxy 4.jpg
 
#3
Did you peel out the strainer screen from the PPS cup lid? On epoxies and high build that can choke down the paint flowing through, looks like what you may have going on there.
 
#4
Did you peel out the strainer screen from the PPS cup lid? On epoxies and high build that can choke down the paint flowing through, looks like what you may have going on there.
Robert - Well, I did not peel the strainer screen out, but certainly will next time. I do think, as noted by El Toro, that it did seem to not be wet enough so perhaps this will help. Believe I was holding gun to far away as well. The door jamb areas which I had the gun closer to when spraying seem to be much smoother. Thanks.

Dwaine
 
#5
Looks thin to me, just not enough material, but did you reduce it also?
I haven't had a problem with the screen, actually like it. Make sure to hold the cup level, to reduce trapped air, when pulling the fluid up and collapsing the liner.
 

jlcustomz

evil painter
#6
Some screens work better than others, but if it is restricting the flow it will add to your problem. Spraying too far away definitely will. So will not having enough volume of airflow to the gun from too small a compressor or too long & thin of a hose for instance. If your gun seems to spray more volume the first second everytime you press the trigger than it does continuously, more air volume is in order. Spraying slower may help the finish as its coming out, but without enough volume it will seemingly take forever and not blend in as good when overlapping with the next spray pass.

You have to find the sweet spot between being too heavy with coating resulting in runs and getting too much orange peel effect.

Try using a paper or plastic cup to dip paint from the can & into your mixing cup.
 
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#8
2K 1.jpg 2K 2.jpg 2K 3.jpg 3 coats of 2K primer this morning. I am very pleased with how this turned out. Still need to tune the gun better. Also need to clean my camera lens.

Dwaine
 
#9
I put a piece of yellow masking tape inside the rim of the can then hold each end with my index finger as I'm poring. Its best the can is dry in that area so the tape sticks. The fuller the can the longer the tape needs to be to create a funnel that directs all the paint. You shouldn't loose more than a few drips. Only one hand on the can in the pic, needed the other to hold the camera.
 

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#10
I put a piece of yellow masking tape inside the rim of the can then hold each end with my index finger as I'm poring. Its best the can is dry in that area so the tape sticks. The fuller the can the longer the tape needs to be to create a funnel that directs all the paint. You shouldn't loose more than a few drips. Only one hand on the can in the pic, needed the other to hold the camera.
Thanks for that tip. Will give it a try.
 
#11
Have not posted in awhile but have been reading through many posts soaking in the info. Making slow progress as life and work get in the way.

Have the doors, hood, deck lid in 2K (over 2 to 3 coats of epoxy) and will be finally getting to the body with epoxy. Plan on completing this step over the next couple of weeks and then due to the Wyoming winter was going to wait until May for base. Now thinking I should either leave the body in epoxy and wait on the 2K or apply epoxy as a sealer. Because I use the garage for other work it seems that I should also go back and seal the before mentioned parts too. I know the timing is not ideal but are there any concerns (other than the extra effort) with scuffing the epoxy sealer and reshooting with epoxy when I am ready to go with the base?

Dwaine
 
#12
I would go with the epoxy until your ready. Not sure what the continuous temp in your shop will be.? I was always told (years and years ago) that primer absorbs moisture if left expose. Not sure how the newer 2k responds but you won’t go wrong with epoxy.
 
#14
I have my 70 chevelle in SPI epoxy (Shell, inner fenders, core support) (almost ready to shoot hood, fenders) , My doors have epoxy and 2 coats of 2K. Kind of bad pic, but just thought I'd share. Actually this pic is when it was in Epoxy. Seems we are near same stages,, at least I am past the rust removal process!!! Good luck
 

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