8 INCH DA RECOMMENDATIONS

Snap-On PS4809 (i think that's the number) or Dynabrade 10xxx series (several different part numbers). Also National-Detroit made a good one. All of those are going to be fairly expensive. On the lower end Viking made a decent one. Don't know if you can still get them new but they show up on Ebay.
I have a Snap on 4809 and find that is really comfortable to use. Dynabrade is pretty close (have one of those as well) Had a Viking years ago it was not real comfortable and the case shattered once when it fell to the ground. But it was cheaper and did the job.
I find I don't use mine too often anymore. Really good for stripping paint when you are doing a multi panel peeler, but I never really liked them for working body filler.
 
I don't even think they make the one I have anymore, it's a 30+ year old CP. It's a gear drive version that the guys used to call a "mud hog." In contrast to my esteemed colleague's experience, I used to use it a lot on big, uncomplicated repair areas, mostly to knock down the first coat. Most recently, it was handy on a big GTO roof that was completely covered in deep rust pits that needed filling. 3M even used to make an 8" 150 grit sticky disc, and we have still have a partial roll of that in a big ziploc. The mud hog doesn't get used a lot anymore, especially on everyday work, since repair areas that size usually call for panel replacements. It serves a slightly different function than an air file, and that's where mine lives most of the time, in the back room next to the air file, waiting for that occasional call to duty. My helper does use it like Chris does, but as a second step in stripping big panels, the first step being an air grinder fitted with a soft 8" pad for sticky discs.
 
I got the IR 328B a while ago when we had to sand those airport conveyor plates. Thing was a beast. Pretty upset they are now selling for like 90 on Amazon. I was happy to have found some replacement backing plates a few months ago to get that flat again and back in use. The thing is a beast. It would be nice to have found a hook and loop backing pad for it because if you use the PSA, you gotta remember to pull the paper off when you are done or it sticks paper on for the next time.
 
i have the same ir model as above. its inexpensive and like said...its a beast. i have had it for about 5 years. i dont use it alot but when i do it has never failed me. seems like its made really well especially for the price.
 
I will add that my experience is that the larger diameter units aren't as easy to handle and won't get into the tighter areas on some panels.
My air file sits next to the larger rotary sander/buffer in the cabinet. Occasionally they are exactly what I need but not very often.
 
I looked at the model number of my sander this morning, it's a CP 777, made in the USA. I don't think they make them anymore, certainly not here in the US. Too bad, it's proven to be pretty much indestructible.
 
@JC Daniel , They tried to sell me on hook and loop many years ago, but my opinion was that paying as much as twice as much per sheet did not add up, even though the hook and loop can be reused. It not a cut and dried issue, for shops doing lots of small jobs, hook and loop can make sense, but if you find yourself wearing out discs before needing to use another one or switching to another grit the majority of the time, sticky is probably fine. Also, sticky discs can be reused if handled carefully.
 
crashtech said:
@JC Daniel , They tried to sell me on hook and loop many years ago, but my opinion was that paying as much as twice as much per sheet did not add up, even though the hook and loop can be reused. It not a cut and dried issue, for shops doing lots of small jobs, hook and loop can make sense, but if you find yourself wearing out discs before needing to use another one or switching to another grit the majority of the time, sticky is probably fine. Also, sticky discs can be reused if handled carefully.
Click to expand...

My shop is cold cold in the winter. I had to put my Norton PSA pads under my IR warming light to even keep the paper stuck on the sander, they were just frisbeeing around the shop at 50 degrees. I got the 3M goo that is supposed to make them stick and that was what got the backing pad out of shape in the first place, actually bending the aluminum out of flat because I left the thing on overnight. It started to come off, but then started bending and what did not come off is all paper the next disc is now sticking to, not the pad itself anymore.

Yes, as usual, all my own fault for being an idiot, but temperature is playing a role in the hook and loop decision as well.
 
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