Advice: Switching to SPI after prepping for another product

Milligan

New Member
Hello, new to the site!

I am currently restoring a 73 Mustang. I’ve been slowly gathering information and figuring out my bodywork and painting process while I worked on the engine, driveline, suspension, and brakes. I’m to the point of doing the major body work. During my online lurking I kept seeing SPI products mentioned so I eventually came here and have uncovered a ton of great information. You guys are wonderful!

However, I already began using some advice from a mustang restoration forum. They seem to really like the Master Coat series of products. The product was recommeneded to me when I stripped the aging vinyl top off the car. The plan was to weld the trim holes up and go with a painted top. I followed the process and stripped the adhesive. Sanded to bare metal with an 80grit DA. I then applied their Metal Prep product which is a phosphoric acid cleaner that leaves a zinc film. That is currently where that project sits.

After reading this forum, I’m not so sure I want to spray Master Coat Silver on the top. I’m wanting to use SPI products now. I read that I have to be VERY careful if using an acid product so I‘m not sure what to do at this point. My plan was to use epoxy over the Silver as was recommended on another site but I’ve read that is not a good idea on this forum.

So my question is, how do I properly prep the top for the epoxy after I’ve already applied an acid product? Easy as soap and water or do I need to actually neutralize it with something like a baking soda scrub?

I appreciate any advice you guys have. I’m sure I’ll have a few more questions as the project continues!

Thanks!
 
Thank you very much. I will use the metal prep again then generously clean with water. Then I clean again with SPI Wax and Grease remover then follow SPI tech manual or is there anything else I need to do?

Thank you guys, you’ve been very helpful. Luckily I only bought a quart of Master Coat, so I didn’t go too far down the wrong path.
 
Yes, I noticed that. A local dealer would be nice if possible so I could pick up product on a whim. Never know when you may need a quick quart for a job.
Give SPI a call and they can check if they have a Jobber in your local area.
 
I was going down the exact path with my Karmann Ghia. The only difference is that I treated EVERY inch of the bare metal body and chassis with acid. Ask me how much fun it was to hand sand everything with 80 grit afterward.

The one note I want to add to the advice given above is to keep the acid re-application wet for about 5-10 minutes before you rinse. This will ensure the previous application is fully reactivated before neutralizing.

Cheers,
Emil
 
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