Another activator shelf life question

roger1

roger1

Member
I have a 3/4 full can of 2103-4 slow activator dated 1/2018.
I just opened and looked in the can with a small but powerful flashlight. It looks good to me. Totally clear all the way to the bottom. It's been stored in my shop which probably doesn't drop down any lower than 50-55 in the winter and stays below 90 in the summer.

I painted my El Camino with SPI SS white 2 years ago but got some hail damage on it yesterday evening. It was in my garage but with the door open when an unexpected storm hit while I was eating dinner. Quarter sized hail with 60-70 mph wind driving the hail straight sideways into the garage. It's a detached garage and I couldn't close it without getting hammered myself to go out there. I had my indoor cover on the car too and it still dinged it. I counted 16 dings on the tailgate, 1 on the stainless trim and 8 on the quarter panel. Put holes in my cover too and it was expensive one. I've got Grundy insurance and called in for a claim today. I'm hoping they will include my cover on the settlement.

I have enough left over paint to repaint the tailgate and entire quarter but need to know if I need to buy a new quart of activator or not.
 
Got ya. I need to buy some blending solvent and more epoxy primer too so I'll add a new quart of hardener to the list.
Later, I'll probably be asking a question or two about blending cured SS. This will be something new for me. I'll do that in a separate thread.
 
to test it, kick off a couple ounces of clear or ss with it and see if its hard in the cup the next sday. that will tell you right there. i have had activators be perfectly fine being opened that were alot older. it really comes down to how you used it the first time. if you mixed and left the cap off for an hr while you sprayed or if you poured and put the cap right back on. with all that said, if i was shooting something big like a car then i would buy new activator and use that stuff for small parts or activating base
 
If you decide to use it, pour it through a strainer and make sure there are no little
clear seeds or clumps in it, if there are, don't use it.
 
Thanks guys.
I agree it's probably good and probably is good enough if doing a small part where there's not much risk. But since this is going to be on both the tailgate and the quarter panel, probably is not good enough. Not for just an extra $37 bucks.

I've used old activator on several small parts through the years and never had a problem. But, there's always the first time and I don't want that to be for this repair job.

It will be interesting to see what my settlement from Grundy will be. I should make decent money on the deal since this is all hobby for me and I never count my labor.
 
I don't know if this is helpful but I have just done a gorilla test on Universal Clear and 4004-4 Activator. Both containers have been opened several times but each time I finish using them I put a generous shot of Bloxygen in the can and immediately seal it. The cans are stored in a cabinet in my garage, which has never fallen below 65 in those 10 years but has certainly gone above 85 almost daily. Two weeks ago I painted a PT Cruiiser bumper cover with Pro-Spray PS2 Bright Silver base and Universal Clear. The date tag on the bottom of the Clear is 3 31 10 and the activator is 5-25-18. It came out amazing, especially considering it was 93*F and 63% humidity and the whole thing was shot outside under a portable carport with no sides. Shot the mirrors at the same time.
Bumper Cover 25.jpg


Bumper Cover 23.jpg
 
Lol, that was one heck of a gamble, I mean test!
THE best I did was find an open activator in my basement that was eight years old and worked great.
But and but, I've seen them useless in a year as so many different factors involved.
A small test day before is an excellent idea.
 
Ive used old clear and activators more times than id like to admit. Painted a small project last week with 10 year old base coat and 5 or 6 year old clear/activator. The only thing ive noticed is that over time (opened) activator evaporates. So there would no longer be enough to match the container of opened clear.
 
I just used some bedliner that was 5 - 1/2 years old. Opened 3 years ago. Worked fine. Mixed a test batch first.
 
Bob Heine said:
I don't know if this is helpful but I have just done a gorilla test on Universal Clear and 4004-4 Activator. Both containers have been opened several times but each time I finish using them I put a generous shot of Bloxygen in the can and immediately seal it. The cans are stored in a cabinet in my garage, which has never fallen below 65 in those 10 years but has certainly gone above 85 almost daily. Two weeks ago I painted a PT Cruiiser bumper cover with Pro-Spray PS2 Bright Silver base and Universal Clear. The date tag on the bottom of the Clear is 3 31 10 and the activator is 5-25-18. It came out amazing, especially considering it was 93*F and 63% humidity and the whole thing was shot outside under a portable carport with no sides. Shot the mirrors at the same time.
View attachment 12776

View attachment 12777
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Bob, didn't notice your post until now. Great job! And good info. Never heard of Bloxygen before. Will have to get some.
 
EddieF said:
what other gases have been tested? Good job Bob.
Click to expand...
Sometimes I have the clear and activator around for longer than I would like due to many small intermittent jobs. When I'm done I put the nozzle of my tig torch in the can opening, hold my hand around to close it up best as possible and flood the inside with straight argon. I do 2 cycles of the post flow and put the top on as quick as possible. No scientific evidence to prove it works but I get to the bottom of clear and activator (Euro2020) with no problems. I figure it displaces the air with oxygen being the enemy. I works for welding by keeping the oxygen out of the melted puddle (basic explanation).
If anyone tries this make sure the work (ground) connection is no where near the can!
 
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