Anyone using these new linear blocking tools?

bill3337

Member
I've seen a lot of hype about these new linear blocking tools https://linearblockingtools.com/ and everyone is raving about them, but wondering if they are really as good as they say. They come in various lengths up to 32", but I'm not sure that's a big advantage or not. I've done fine up to now with my 16" longboard, but am curious as to whether these new tools might be worthwhile. Thanks, Bill
 
I've seen a lot of hype about these new linear blocking tools https://linearblockingtools.com/ and everyone is raving about them, but wondering if they are really as good as they say. They come in various lengths up to 32", but I'm not sure that's a big advantage or not. I've done fine up to now with my 16" longboard, but am curious as to whether these new tools might be worthwhile. Thanks, Bill
I asked a very similar question a while back and there was some great information in the responses. Here is the thread: http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/sanding-block-wisdom.8216/
My biggest takeaway was that the hands holding the blocks are the most important thing.
The linear blocks guy has some very helpful videos and tutorials. He is also an excellent marketer.
I passed on his $200 blocks and have gotten great results with my durablock set, trying to focus on technique, using guide coat and being willing to do it over, and over until results are good.
 
I asked a very similar question a while back and there was some great information in the responses. Here is the thread: http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/sanding-block-wisdom.8216/
My biggest takeaway was that the hands holding the blocks are the most important thing.
The linear blocks guy has some very helpful videos and tutorials. He is also an excellent marketer.
I passed on his $200 blocks and have gotten great results with my durablock set, trying to focus on technique, using guide coat and being willing to do it over, and over until results are good.
Yes, somewhat my feeling too. I've had pretty good results with my old methods, but always looking for something better.
 

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To show the importance of the long board..


We had done some blocking with the 27" AFS and seemed to have two high spots with a low in the middle of the door..

Note the high areas marked by the green tape...


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Now we can see that as the sander is moved to the left, the left portion of the AFS is over the high spot on the left, and a bit more movement and the right portion of the AFS will start dropping into the low void. Effectively, this is still cutting material out of the low, keeping it low.


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Looking at the next size up, a 36" AFS....


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Here we can see this one does a much better job of spanning the high spots and staying up on top of the high spots, for a more effective job of knocking down the highs and leaving the low in the center alone...


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SO the point of all this is that for long panels especially, use as long a block as you can stand. I have also found the Mirka Gold tends to load up rather quickly, I've had best luck with the 3M blue... When you have a 36" or longer block, you don't want to waste a bunch of time (and PSA paper) because it loads up too quickly...
 
Not my intention at all to rain on Robert's post, but want to emphasize to folks, especially those of you just getting into this that you really don't need blocks that long to do nice work. It's more about the correct technique, grit choice, and being able to read the panel and understand what is going on with it (with your hand) than it is the length of your block. Longer blocks can mask poor technique but most long long blocks are very hard to control what happens outside of where your two hands are. I don't know about the AFS blocks but it's a moot point with them as they are unobtainable nowadays. You really need 3 or 4 hands to control a 30"+ Dura block. With enough experience you can get nearly any panel straight with a paint stick. I've seen old timers do it.
With proper technique a 17" or at most 24" block is all you'll ever need. If anybody is interested I'll go into technique a little further in another post.
 
All these new blocks coming out really just seem to focus on comfort. It's all in what you believe in. I think the longest block I personally own is a 30" deal. I have a complete AFS setup and they are great. I use durablocks to rough in bodywork, when it comes to sanding primer its AFS or plexiglass blocks if its something I want perfect.

Again this is just my personal opinion, nothing compares to a hard block(ie plexi, steel, PVC pipe or wood), I've used plenty of paint sticks also!

It's really all into the eye of the beholder. Some might sand with a piece of paper in their hands and say "Damn that's laser straight" some guys I see on the ole youtube do everything with a DA sander and call it show quality!

I know what works for me and those blocks in the link you posted do look comfortable if that makes any sense. But don't get it twisted, you can easily make your own plexi blocks for much cheaper. I have chunks of it that I have cut up over the years to accommodate any given situation I needed them for.
 
Truing your blocks on a good,Flat piece of glass. Even these have issues. Lay out some strips and run the block with basically the pressure to keep it flat as possiable but not excessive enough to distort it and look for High spots.That is your problem.Low is usually a non issue unless it obviously is going to be a concern. ANY block needs to be FLAT or True as we Old timers say.Straight out of the box should be checked initially. Actually never had 1 Flat ever and taken several Durablocks back.The real Advantage with These is the flexibility and staying true when your getting to the end of the work. My Durablocks are the Grinders which have multiple edges on 1 block.Surprising how many users don't even LOOK at the block as a whole,just the 1 flat bottom.This type are for Finish work and only have the Flat side and conform nicely over most everything but the obvious for which they aren't intended. Great body to hold on to also.Sanding is an Art and a Learned process thru Performing It. Tutorials are a great help,but the More you Do IT,the Better you get.
We all have used pretty much about Anything in order to get the work done because WE Know IT's There. LOL....
And you Will see It later. Good or Bad.
Dry Guide coat helps too.
One other thing is to ALWAYS store your blocks FLAT. NEVER Over,Off 'something'. It will leave a 'mark' or 'conform' if left over time.
 
I've been making my own lexan/plexi blocks for awhile now since we have a lot of leftovers from when we did a lot of heavy equipment glass work at our shop. They're a big step ahead of Durablocks and AFS style blocks, I've previously used those almost exclusively before making acrylic blocks and now use acrylic almost exclusively. Acrylic blocks most important feature is that the face of the block is hard- soft blocks absorb high spots, even steel-faced AFS blocks flex over high spots because the steel layer is so thin and flexible. The hard face forces the block to cut only the high spots. The second most important feature is that they flex in a very even arc, so they shape curves really well. They also flatten texture and wave from clear better than softer blocks.
 
i'm still using a box full of old homemade blocks . the block robert is showing works real well on the old crowned panels of the 50's .
 
Something to remember:
If you use a real long block with your hands at each end, the ends cut faster and more
so it always looks like a low spot in the center.
If you can't keep equal pressure on the length of the block you'll do more harm than good.
I myself have never used a block longer than 14" in the last 40+ yrs.
 
Something to remember:
If you use a real long block with your hands at each end, the ends cut faster and more
so it always looks like a low spot in the center.
If you can't keep equal pressure on the length of the block you'll do more harm than good.
I myself have never used a block longer than 14" in the last 40+ yrs.

I prefer the longer blocks as I’m not a good enough body man to get these results otherwise.

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It has been a learning curve, just as it was on the door pictured in my earlier post, but I’ve found that not applying undue pressure both helps to keep the block flat as well as it now doesn’t load up as quickly. Let the sandpaper do the work, in other words. Don’t push in on it, just let it glide along.

Like so:




But anxiously awaiting Chris’ tutorial… learning curves are killer. ;)
 
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If you know how to use them, and it looks like you do, they can be great.
But I would be reluctant to recommend one to a new comer.
And yes, those results can be had from a shorter block,
the key is a coarse git and long strokes, especially on the clear.
If I want a show car finish like that, I sand the clear initially with 400,
But mostly my work is collision repair and starting with 1500 is more than enough
to get a good factory finish.
But I do admire a really straight finish. Good work!
 
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