Badging removal

Chevynutz

Slow old timer
How would you guys remove the letters from a body panel, heat gun and thin putty knife ?
 

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I'll post a pic later (away from my tools) but I've always used a thin knife edge tool. Looks similar to a putty knife but with the edge on the side. Don't know the proper name for it. Doing collision for a lot of years I've removed a lot of emblems with it. Including a lot of the one pictured. A sharp edge thin flexible putty knife works well too. A stiff but thin and stubby puttyknife like tool works too. Never used any wire so I can't comment. Only used any sort of wire with glass.

Thin sharp edge putty knife and your heat gun will remove them quickly. Make sure it's thin. Go slow and careful so you don't dig into the paint. Just warm it (panel and emblem area) a bit (not much) then work the knife down the backside staying close to the emblem side. Once you get a 1/3 of it loose it will pull off easily by hand. Best way to remove the adhesive and not damage the paint is to use an eraser wheel in your drill. I've also used a loose razor blade by hand in a pinch when something better wasn't available. Razor blade works well for the flexible style emblems. Thin putty knife would work better on those Silverado emblems.

Example of eraser wheels if interested.
 
I use a 2" thin flexible putty knife with all the edges rounded over especially the corners.
Any adhesive foam left over comes off with a 3M eraser wheel, keep the eraser moving don't concentrate in one spot or you can burn the clearcoat.
 
Are you going to be putting them back on after paint? That is if you are painting the part.
 
Ya, I was just going to say that if you are planning on putting them back on and either the customer is too cheap(my experience) or maybe they aren't available, I always make a template around them with lines where the letters so.

But new is always a blessing.
 
Cost on a new one is about $60, so it comes down to how one values time. For us, the labor to clean, retape, and properly position those letters would well exceed the cost of new. I've heard of places that sell precut double-sided tape for emblems, which I would highly recommend for shops trying to re-use these kinds of emblems, carving the tape to match all the letters is very time consuming.
 
Thanks gentlemen, greatly appreciated !
Are you going to be putting them back on after paint? That is if you are painting the part.
Going to paint the whole tailgate and probably leave them off, good to know though. When you say make a template do you lay tracing paper over the top and outline or ?
 
Huh, I wonder how they get away with that. I've never used a knock-off emblem before, but it's good to know they're out there.
 
I had no idea, either. I needed the silverado emblems. Customer wanted them in black, but OEM emblems were unavailable. Aftermarket was available, figured worth a shot. In black, 3 silverado emblems and LT emblem, $35. Literally identical, fit perfect.
 
Thanks gentlemen, greatly appreciated !

Going to paint the whole tailgate and probably leave them off, good to know though. When you say make a template do you lay tracing paper over the top and outline or ?
I just use masking tape, layer it up and make marks. Like previously said if the emblem is available and cheap. Better to buy it new.
 
The cool thing about the factory ones is that they come stuck to a clear plastic guide that has them aligned properly, this gets peeled off once the letters are stuck on. I've seen a lot of rigs where you can tell that work has been done because the spacing is off or the letters slightly crooked, it's a pretty big PIA to get them just right.
 
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