Base Recoat window

mike r

mike r

Promoted Users
Sprayed two coats of Black base. Waited till morning to spray clear. looking at my base I did not get full coverage in a particular area. How long can the base sit open before recoating is a No No.
 
Found some pinholes in my base that I did not see earlier. what is the best fix at this point? sand down fill with glazing putty, seal, shoot base again?
 
Barry has told me before that a good base (with good quality polyols), as long as it is not exposed to sunlight or UV (or otherwise cured), and as long as it stays clean, can sit for a very long time before clear. I want to say the word he used was 'indefinitely.' But maybe don't plan for indefinitely :) I can say on the Prospray base I used on my 67 Mustang (I painted in 2013-2014), the base was sitting for 1-2 weeks before it got clear and that car is still beautiful to this day.
 
mike r said:
Found some pinholes in my base that I did not see earlier. what is the best fix at this point? sand down fill with glazing putty, seal, shoot base again?
Click to expand...
No real easy fix. If you do it as you described, you need to be careful to not sand a low in the panel. Also it can be risky filling a pinhole when in anything but filler or epoxy. I've seen filler in pinholes that were filled late in the process let go after the paint is shot.
Have no idea idea of your process or what you used so I'll give you the safe way to do it. Sand lightly with 320 dry or 400 wet. Don't go crazy. Find something that fits into the pinholes. Like a sewing pin or similar. Scratch the inside of the pinhole. Blow off apply 2 part glaze thinly pressing down. Swipe it in two directions to ensure the pinhole gets filled. Sand and apply either 2k urethane or epoxy and sand with 320 dry or 400 wet. You do not want to apply the primer thick, just enough to fill the sanding you did. Then either spot seal the area or base directly over. If the color is metallic finish with 600.
Hope that makes sense.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
No real easy fix. If you do it as you described, you need to be careful to not sand a low in the panel. Also it can be risky filling a pinhole when in anything but filler or epoxy. I've seen filler in pinholes that were filled late in the process let go after the paint is shot.
Have no idea idea of your process or what you used so I'll give you the safe way to do it. Sand lightly with 320 dry or 400 wet. Don't go crazy. Find something that fits into the pinholes. Like a sewing pin or similar. Scratch the inside of the pinhole. Blow off apply 2 part glaze thinly pressing down. Swipe it in two directions to ensure the pinhole gets filled. Sand and apply either 2k urethane or epoxy and sand with 320 dry or 400 wet. You do not want to apply the primer thick, just enough to fill the sanding you did. Then either spot seal the area or base directly over. If the color is metallic finish with 600.
Hope that makes sense.
Click to expand...
I repaired a bad spot in a bedside that I painted last year, used filler, sanded, to 320 2 coats of epoxy, in the repair area, sanded to 600 to match unrepaired area, sealed with epoxy, 2 coats of black SPI base, found pin holes in filler where I didn't see before. Is it wise to sand that area glaze then thin coat of epoxy and re-base whole bedside.
 
Sand, glaze, sand the glaze, couple coats of epoxy, sand and proceed. Then blend the area or do the whole side. Whatever you are more comfortable with
Important to sand the primer, not just seal the glaze as you will have a low area that will be visible after clearing it if you don't prime and sand.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top