Best product to correct wavy corvette after SPI Epoxy

Ok, thanks...I haven't used the citristrip yet. Strange, the "other" forum always say liquid stripper is the best way to go....next to razor blade that is.
No way mine will razor blade...I'd be there forever. I've only got 1 very, very thin layer of blue paint that the sun didn't turn into chalk left on this body an it is hard as a moonrock.
Can I use a DA with a grit lower than 80? I have an 8in geared mudslinger....gonna try that with a 34 grit and hope I don't sand through to China....
 
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Also Bob, if your checking is in the old finish just sand it off. No orig paint left especially if checked or pinholes, you dont want to try to fill those. Your DA sander is your friend. Maybe, or prob 80grit and finesse.
 
Slofut....that red rag top of yours sure is purrrrrdy.....and the engine bay is awesome!! I am smack in the middle of doing my engine bay....I played around with thinning ratios on the SPI black epoxy for all my removed suspension parts. May I ask if you used SPI epoxy and at what ratio on your engine bay/cowl? Thank you.



bob
 
Thanks Bob. On the engine bay and all frame and later suspension parts that weren't powder coated I used black epoxy primer and AG111 urethane topcoat. It's my go to for frame bits because it's very tough and everything proof so brake fluid, carb cleaner etc... doesn't affect it and it has a very "factory" appearance and sheen. I also cleaned the underside body and firewall to bare glass, epoxy prime, and Lizard Skin heat barrier coating, then put Zero Clearance heat shield over that. Still hot as hell, even with side exhaust. Got an unfinished build link here... https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/threads/71-vert-ls1-t56-build-thread.164292/
 
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