Black Cherry recomendations

Bartman

Member
I've sprayed a lot of candy red, brandywine, and cobalt blue. I've also sprayed HOK black cherry pearl a number of times. I was watching the 1/28/17 edition of counting cars with a black cherry Chevy truck. If any of you saw or can find that episode, I'd like some input before experimenting. I've gotten close with a black metalic with candy brandywine over the top. But my side tones are not as glowing and burnt red as I would like.
 
Dont shoot the messenger, but you mix that candy or candy metallic pigment in the black and you will get something nobody else has in one step. I use paintwithpearl, look at this https://www.paintwithpearl.com/shop...ndy-pearl-paint-colors/dark-red-eggplant-red/ with their new night shade stuff. We just used the metallic blue in the black and got the deepest blue you will ever see and it still looks black at night. That mauve Rose will probably do it too. Some of their pearls have metallic, so you just use regular black, but if they dont then use the metallic black.

The only downside, buy enough. Its cheap enough to buy extra, but we ordered a year or two apart and got a different shade.
 
Dont shoot the messenger, but you mix that candy or candy metallic pigment in the black and you will get something nobody else has in one step. I use paintwithpearl, look at this https://www.paintwithpearl.com/shop...ndy-pearl-paint-colors/dark-red-eggplant-red/ with their new night shade stuff. We just used the metallic blue in the black and got the deepest blue you will ever see and it still looks black at night. That mauve Rose will probably do it too. Some of their pearls have metallic, so you just use regular black, but if they dont then use the metallic black.

The only downside, buy enough. Its cheap enough to buy extra, but we ordered a year or two apart and got a different shade.

Thanks for your input. Are you saying you spray this as a base/clear and not a tri-stage?
 
yes, base clear. When we metal flaked the Jeep, we flaked, then candied and then cleared and it was not as consistent as the camaro job with the blend. You would be surprised how light the mixed in color can be to make a little effect on the black. The only way I would candy in a second step is if you want to do the darker down low trick that Chip Foose uses, by layering more candy down low than up high. But you know how straight body work needs to be when you are going black. I bought an old digital scale to mix it, but have also used a little jewelry type scale to measure out the candy pearl adding to paint for the trial before mixing the entire gallon.

I know there are other candy and flake places out there, but for some reason the liquid candies they sell do not really tint the black as much, so this concentrated powder gets the job done fast. If you dont want to mess with the color, they sell the mixed paint as well, but I would rather control the quality of my basecoat we were using and be able to adjust accordingly.
 
I'm not sure if this is the color you are looking for, but here is Steve Meade's Tahoe. He's huge in the car audio world, pretty nice rig. Black base, candy red over top if I recall correctly.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ste...ff&tbm=isch&q=steve+meade+tahoe+black&imgrc=_

They have a torreador red that looks like that. Just saying there is a way a 500.00 paint job can look better than a 5000.00 or more paint job. Lay candy on candy and you also have hell to pay when you have to fix an area.
 
Not sure what you are talking about with candy on candy, or $500 vs $5000. Nobody said anything about budget, and on that note, it'd be ridiculous to go through all the work to get a body straight and cheap out on product. HOK kandy koncentrates are relatively inexpensive, as is SPI intercoat clear.

Also, from my understanding, candy is a dye, not a pigment, so I'm not sure how it could be sold as a powder. It also worries me that the site is selling it as candy pearl. Maybe it's possible, but it seems like they are just using popular words to sell product.

Lastly, I believe I was mistaken on Steve Meade's Tahoe. I think he has a red pearl, not a candy. Either way, it's a tri-coat.
 
I've sprayed a lot of candy red, brandywine, and cobalt blue. I've also sprayed HOK black cherry pearl a number of times. I was watching the 1/28/17 edition of counting cars with a black cherry Chevy truck. If any of you saw or can find that episode, I'd like some input before experimenting. I've gotten close with a black metalic with candy brandywine over the top. But my side tones are not as glowing and burnt red as I would like.
http://www.history.com/shows/counting-cars/season-6/episode-16
 
Not sure what you are talking about with candy on candy, or $500 vs $5000. Nobody said anything about budget, and on that note, it'd be ridiculous to go through all the work to get a body straight and cheap out on product. HOK kandy koncentrates are relatively inexpensive, as is SPI intercoat clear.

Also, from my understanding, candy is a dye, not a pigment, so I'm not sure how it could be sold as a powder. It also worries me that the site is selling it as candy pearl. Maybe it's possible, but it seems like they are just using popular words to sell product.

Lastly, I believe I was mistaken on Steve Meade's Tahoe. I think he has a red pearl, not a candy. Either way, it's a tri-coat.

Why does it always come to "cheaping" out on a product. What I said are the kandy concentrates from HOK are in no way as concentrated as a powder. You take intercoat clear and add about 10 grams of this powder and thats about the strength of HOK. And dont forget the concentrate you are buying is not in clear, its in solvent, like you should mix the powder before adding it to the paint. Don't get mesmerized by the HOK name and thinking you are getting top quality.

I did not know you were an expert painter like the others here since most of your posts claim you are learning and I am just telling you how you can get there faster and more consistent. If you make a mistake and one of your candy coats does not make it and your drip method of "dying" the intercoat clear is not exact you are going to keep spraying and spraying to make it uniform. I clearly said dont buy their basecoat system, since I dont know what it is, buy the good stuff. I dont know if I can say buy the SPI basecoat since they might not want you to mix pigments into it. I am just telling you what works.

And if you can let me know where all this liquid pools of candy are found, I would like to learn. Just about everything starts as a powder, I wouldn't doubt all candy concentrates do as well. They want you to think you are buying the real candy that they blend into paints, which is closer to mud. Just telling you what works, if you are too fixated on being "accepted" here and immediately want 25 years of experience, thats up to you. Maybe someone else will get a paint job that looks like it cost 5 grand.
 
1. Nope, I'm not an expert. I changed my status to learning because that's exactly what I come here for. Most of the time I'm just sitting back, reading posts of those who know what they are doing, and learning. Often times you learn more when you speak less. This is also why I said I'm not sure how it could be sold as a powder, or from my understanding, etc etc. It's my way of saying "Hey, if anyone knows otherwise, chime in". It has nothing to do with being "accepted" here, either. Not sure why you are jumping to all of these conclusions. It only makes sense that when you come on a forum based on a companies products, you take the advice of the people who use them, or those who are obviously experts from their own examples.

2. Since you decided to make this personal, I'd like to ask you if you consider yourself an expert? You seem to give advice almost nonstop, not always the best. I recently had a thread where I was trying to learn why my air pressure is changing at my gun. You said "try putting the regulator on the wall and run the hose straight to the gun to see if it changes. They all recommend that wall regulator over the gun." despite the fact that I had put in an earlier post that I had previously had a wall regulator, and your statement of "they all recommend wall regulator over the gun" is a blanket statement that isn't true, as many users here including PROVEN experts like Shine and Barry both regulate at the gun, not at the wall. That was just recently, I'm sure if I spent any time at all looking I could find multiple times of bad advice or instances where you start bringing up mil-spec coatings when people are talking about automotive coatings.

3. You did not say anything about kandy concentrates from HOK. Go ahead and hit control+f, type HOK. Also, I said HOK as a reference, as most other reputable companies also have dyes. Not sure why you seem to be out to slander HOK.

4. As to "cheaping out" on a product, it's pretty simple. Most people are not going to risk covering hundreds of hours of labor in a product that is not well proven, or commonly used. It just doesn't make sense. If I remember correctly, you had some similar issues when you first came here with a Camaro, multiple layers of poor product that you wanted to try to seal with epoxy and keep working over top of. Your less proven Custom Shop clear sent you an improperly labeled quart of hardener that was clear, according to you, not a problem that I've ever heard of with SPI or other commonly used brands. Was it worth saving the money to have to go back and re-do your work? Also, where in the heck are you claiming this $500 paint job? The cost of base and clear alone will exceed that. Assuming you use a gallon of epoxy, gallon of base, and gallon of clear, with no sandpaper, 2k, filler, etc, you will be at or over that cost. Quality companies stand behind there products, you are paying for the service as well as the product. The original poster could have an unlimited budget for all you know. Don't assume cost is an issue until it is stated.

5. Lastly, you did not explain why the product you linked is listed as a pearl and a kandy. Kandy paint is translucent and generally sprayed over a metallic base, pearls are a pigment that is generally used over a base. Why would they be combining 2 products into one?


If you would like to answer my questions with facts, proof, etc that'd be great. I'm open to learning, but I'm not going to change my mind because you start flipping out. You are going to need a hint of proof or examples. If you want to just keep trying to insult me by saying I'm just trying to be accepted and such, you might as well save your typing because this thread will just get locked and it'll be a step closer to both of us being banned.
 
I cannot control the tone you read in. I get it, I read Shines posts the same way, since I was not answering you anyway, but appreciate getting berated by a learner now as well.

Does it work? Yes. Our comments at local shows is who painted that car, where can I buy that color. Answer is, we did, you cant buy the color, its our custom blend. You can try to match it, but its not gonna end up the same and be bright in the sunlight and almost black at night. Watching the scripted reality restoration shows, its at least a 5000.00 paint job. Most I see are estimating at least that.

Maybe Bartman will splurge and spend 20 bucks on powder and shipping and spray out a panel and see what he is looking for. He sounds like he has sprayed enough to know it might be cool to save a step or twelve. When its time to repair a scratch or dent, you are not trying to blend coats of candy, because by coats and coats is you dont usually spray just one, you spray til you are happy with the depth..

I have painted enough to know, its not the thousand dollar paint gun, or the top quality of paints that make a job, its the guy with his hand on the trigger. You either have it or you dont. I can help you paint a car, I can help you blend paint to something unique, but dont ask me to help you paint your living room. Take it for what its worth.

Apologies to Bartman and some that may not want to chime in for more drama. Its time for another break.
 
If you weren't answering me, then why were you quoting my posts? Also, you keep trying to insult me by calling me a learner. I put that myself because of humility, I don't act like I know it all. Maybe you should have some as well.
 
Guys thanks for your input. I have been painting for many years and I have owned my shop for 25+ years, lost count. I have done cars that have won both on the regional and national level. I'm not bragging, I'm just saying I'm not new. I am a better painter this week than I was last week and hope to be better next week because I never think I know everything. I believe we must continue to grow in knowledge and technique or we become complacent. I appreciate the opinions and views.

I always thought the "candy look" was from the light passing thought the translucent dye layer of the candy, bouncing of the base and coming back through the candy. I never considered that effect might be had in other methods. It's food for thought. I have tried HOK "kandy basecoat" and it just looks like basecoat to me, that was the basis for my opinion. It's only 20 bucks and a little time, I may order the powder candy and play with it. I would assume, if I wanted to use it in a traditional tri-stage, I could dissolve in urethane thinner and then use that thinner 1:1 with intercoat clear. That way I control the strength of the candy AND the quality of the urethane reducer because I have always been skeptical of the quality of the solvents in candy concentrates.
 
I've never been overly impressed with the kandy basecoat myself. I like having the ability to control the exact look I'm looking for. I use the koncentrates in SPI intercoat clear over metallic basecoats. I tried the HOK metallic silver and gold bases and it looked alright. Recently I sprayed Ed Roth baby flake, then did candy over top and I loved that! It sparkled through the kandy so much more. I suppose it depends if you want the metallic shimmer or a smoother, almost pearl effect. Try messaging Jim C, he has helped me immensely and does this sort of work very often, definitely should be able to help.
 
Gentleman, this board has existed for years without pissing matches and name calling.

This is a great place to Discuss ideas products and techniques, there is no place here for childish behaviors.

I respectfully ask you all to refrain from those type of posts.

Thank you.
 
I've never been overly impressed with the kandy basecoat myself. I like having the ability to control the exact look I'm looking for. I use the koncentrates in SPI intercoat clear over metallic basecoats. I tried the HOK metallic silver and gold bases and it looked alright. Recently I sprayed Ed Roth baby flake, then did candy over top and I loved that! It sparkled through the kandy so much more. I suppose it depends if you want the metallic shimmer or a smoother, almost pearl effect. Try messaging Jim C, he has helped me immensely and does this sort of work very often, definitely should be able to help.

Jim C is an amazing custom painter! Has helped and taught me everything I know about Kandys etc. ( Which may not be much ) !
 
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