black single stage or base with clear for novice

slammed57

slammed57

Newbie
Ive been reading up for about the last 2 yrs (yes 2 years) I feel like I could have earned a master degree by now. As Iam getting closer to paint. And Iam still undermined which way i want to go. so maybe asking a few questions will help my decision. Iam building a resto mod 57 chevy truck and strongly considering single stage black. my thoughts was to lay down 3 coats of single stage , then block with 800 and lay down 3 coats of clear. would I run into a issue if mistakenly cut through the clear on sanding or buffing. Then i thought 3 coats of single stage, block and 2 more coats of single stage..... Or just do a base and clear? Iam not looking for the easiest way , but the best way to achieve show car quality. I will be doing this in my 3 car garage and plan on spraying the cab, fenders, hood etc at different times so I can give each item the attention to detail. any advice is appreciated
 
Some of the folks here have posted pictures and the SPI SS Black is unbelievable. I am on the fence between SPI black and SPI white for my Mustang when/if it ever gets done :)
 
Painted a '50 Lincoln many years ago with Concept 9300. Car got minor damage in rear and trunk lid and 1/4's were painted with DBC 9700 by another painter. He put color on the complete panels instead of blending (black is black, right?). Car looked like crap, in the sun especially. Color was off and it just didn't look as deep. As far as I'm concerned, nothing looks as good as black lacquer when it's fresh, but it goes downhill from there. SS urethane can be made to look similar and lasts MUCH longer.
 
I wish SPI made a single stage Ford/Bahama Blue for when I finally get around to the top coat on my F100.
Suggestions for paint manufacturer since I can’t get from Barry?
 
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I too believe single stage (urethane not lacquer) has a richer color than base coat.
I did my own car with single stage and I also cleared it.
Not only was the color more rich, but the paint is way more durable too.
If you get a chip in the clear there's no worry of delamination like with base coat
 
When i paint my "white" 86 caddy, i'd like to have spi white tinted local.
How close would it be? Doesn't have to be perfect, all over job.
 
My advice, not knowing how much spraying experience you have and since you plan to do parts individually, is pick the easiest part to sand to paint first. The amount of sanding is going to be based on the amount of orange peel you end up with and I am pretty sure knowing when to stop and sand is more important than sanding. If you have peel in your first coat, I am not sure its right to spray 2 more coats being that the paint will not fill, just continue on the high and low spots and loading up coats is not going to make sanding with 800 too much fun. It will get your technique down and reducer and pressures dialed in for your personal spraying.

Of course, if you can spray to gloss with no peel at all, then its going to be easier.

I have seen some car shows where the peel was just awful and they dont show you the days of cutting and buffing before its done. You are already starting with a color that is going to show every flaw, every defect with black. When my son was getting close to painting the Camaro, we stuck a jeep in so he could paint something before needing to be perfect. Getting some thin metal to practice on might save hours if not days. I say thin metal because cardboard soaks in paint so you wont see runs, and metal you can put over the edge of a table and bend and edge on it like the fender will be.
 
black is the easiest color to shoot . you can see just what is going on . get it covered with 3 coats . block to kill any wave or trash the shoot 2 glamour coats . reduce a little and put slow thin wet coats on . should only need to nib trash and polish .
never put heavy wet coats down to get it to flow because it wont . thin wet coats reduce peel or chances of runs .

good luck with it . it's not going to be as hard as you think .
 
Slammed, I also decided on SS black for my 57 pickup (Bigglass on the truck forum). I'm following Shine's advice. Hopefully I will be laying it down by the end of this month. I'll keep you posted..
 
shine said:
black is the easiest color to shoot . you can see just what is going on . get it covered with 3 coats . block to kill any wave or trash the shoot 2 glamour coats . reduce a little and put slow thin wet coats on . should only need to nib trash and polish .
never put heavy wet coats down to get it to flow because it wont . thin wet coats reduce peel or chances of runs .

good luck with it . it's not going to be as hard as you think .
Click to expand...

What should he block with after the first 3 coats? He says he's going with 800, but would a lower grit be better, say 400-600 if there's wave?

Then after the last 2 coats he would nib and polish?

Trying to get this, as I may be attempting SS rather than BC/CC, though I'm still not sure.
 
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