black single stage or base with clear for novice

Understand what you guys are saying and agree for the most part, but I will say that it's not as drastic a difference as this thread makes it seem. For example the 2015 Pebble Beach Concours winner was a BC/CC job finished with SPI Universal and it looks pretty darn good. Especially if it satisfied the snobs at Pebble Beach.:)
Scroll down and you'll see the car: https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/current-ad
Some more pics https://duckduckgo.com/?q=1924+Isotta+Fraschini+Tipo+8A+Named+“Best+of+Show”+at+Pebble+Beach&bext=wcr&atb=v149-5&iax=images&ia=images&iai=http://web-cars.com/images/pbeach_img/2015-Pebble-Beach-Concours-Elegance-winner-DSC_9528A_a.jpg
 
Since that car has an award winning SPI paint job, I thought it deserved a better look.

SPI%20bc%20cc%20black%202_zpsi884sev5.jpg
 
True it's not a drastic difference in most lighting conditions between ss & bc/cc as I have both on various sections of personal vehicle.
Either one in good quality paint isn't a wrong choice at all , but if being picky, us picky people will just be picky.
 
but the suggestion was after your color sanding to go 50/50 blend of single stage and clear on top of it, so what exactly is giving that paint job the depth?
 
depth is achieved by the clarity of the finish . has nothing to do with number of coats or mixing clear with color which i never do .
 
I've had a failure doing the 2 step job. I had to repaint the front clip on a 54' Porsche I was restoring. An assembly problem meant respraying. I 1000 grit sanded the nose, blended my standox base on my lower repairs, and sprayed 3 coats of universal on the front end. It looked great but when we were roping the windshield in (nightmare w/new glass and gasket) running the plastic tool around trying to get everything to lay down it delaminated in a small area where the tool was ran on a highpoint body line. Clear didn't fall off but it did lift in a small area. This showed me the adhesion isn't as good as my 5 coat method. Next time I'll do 800 grit and maybe adhesion is better.

This Delahaye was SPI black with univerasal. It won a finish award at the Concourse America in Michigan. It looks nice but the SS jobs look a little better. Untrained eye couldn't tell the difference.
 

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I just started sanding/buffing my chevelle.. This is 2 coats of UV over SPI Black base shot with (don't flame me) a HF purple gun. Blocked with 600 through 2500. I can't complain about the clarity and reflection. This is buffed with Menzerna 400 with a black pad, haven't used the 3800 yet.
 

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bswisher said:
I just started sanding/buffing my chevelle.. This is 2 coats of UV over SPI Black base shot with (don't flame me) a HF purple gun. Blocked with 600 through 2500. I can't complain about the clarity and reflection. This is buffed with Menzerna 400 with a black pad, haven't used the 3800 yet.
Click to expand...

You most definitely cannot call yourself a novice anymore, nope.

Looks really really good in that picture
 
bswisher said:
I just started sanding/buffing my chevelle.. This is 2 coats of UV over SPI Black base shot with (don't flame me) a HF purple gun. Blocked with 600 through 2500. I can't complain about the clarity and reflection. This is buffed with Menzerna 400 with a black pad, haven't used the 3800 yet.
Click to expand...

Looking good!:)
 
shine said:
2 coats is unbuffable imo . even if you get it polished it will have far too little mill thickness . clean it up and apply 3 coats then cut and buff .
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I agree as well, it was 2 heavy coats. I am knocking the doors back with 800 and flow coating 2-3 more on the whole car. The doors were basically just to see how straight I had it. Thanks for the tips.
 
I have a black BMW 635csi, as soon as I finish this corvette I'm painting that car black SPI SS!! I cant wait.
 
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