Can cut and buff finish come out as shiny as fresh sprayed uv clear?

D

Don Sweet

I noticed when doing a spot clear repair (now redoing whole panel) that the unsanded new uv clear had much more gloss that what was cut and buffed. I hard blocked runs with 600 then 800 followed by 1000 all over up through grits to 3000. I used a rotary buffer with wool pad and cg v32 which really brought out the color and shine. Next was da orange pad with cg v36 , cg v38. Looking at it in the sun looks great with no scratches. I usually make 3-4 passes at each step and with the buffer I am nervous about overdoing it. Should I work more on any step or?
Thanks, Don
 
don, cut and buffed uv clear will come out far deeper and glossier than just sprayed clear if done right. i think its impossible for anyone to say over the internet or from pictures what step you would need to do more or at which point your process is being rushed. thats really something that has to be seen in person to tell. i have never used the cg system so i cant really comment on their products. i would say though if you dont see any scratches in the finish when looking inside under flourescent lights or with a halogen worklight shining at an angle across the surface then you probably just need to run through the final polishes more
 
Yes I understand. Due to my inexperience I didn't know where to focus my efforts. I seen suggestions to work a small area going through the steps to see quicker better results. I will try this on a panel that I have done to check for any improvement.
Thanks, Don
 
If you can confirm you have all your sanding scratches out following the wool. The switch from V32 with wool on a rotary to V36 on a DA could cause problems.

Probably a next thing to try would be V36 with an orange pad on a rotary buffer. If that doesn't cut it, backstep to V32 on an orange pad with a rotary and then continue to V36 on an orange or white pad.

I always like buffing in my garage and using a work light and working back and forth on an angle like Jim mentioned.

20200222_162914.jpg 20200222_164237.jpg
 
Last edited:
I did work the 1200 a little more. When I got to 3000 I was seeing some shine even before buffing
 
sprint_9 said:
If you can confirm you have all your sanding scratches out following the wool. The switch from V32 with wool on a rotary to V36 on a DA could cause problems.

Probably a next thing to try would be V36 with an orange pad on a rotary buffer. If that doesn't cut it, backstep to V32 on an orange pad with a rotary and then continue to V36 on an orange or white pad.

I always like buffing in my garage and using a wirk light and working back and forth on an angle like Jim mentioned.

View attachment 11413 View attachment 11414
Click to expand...
 
I have 2 florescent lights on the area now. I will try y'all suggestions, thanks
 
Here's some shots I took when using a Halogen light for the first time to see my buffing progress.
My technique and compound materials have changed since then but it will give you a basic understanding of how to use the lights.

Notice the reflection of the light is somewhat blurred and lacks any real definition.

Megs 105 2nd app.JPG


The above picture was using a twisted wool pad and Megs 105. Megs M-100 would have produced much better results.
Now here is the next picture:
Intensive Polish CCS White.JPG

This was using Intensive Polish and a CCS white pad on rotary. I now use Chemical Guys V36 for this step and get much better results.
You can see the clarity is much better and the blurred look is gone.

Next picture is a close up of the reflection of the halogen light after using Menzerna 85R (now called Final Finish 3800) and a CCS black pad.
It shows the clarity and fine detail now visible. You can nearly read all the stamped print on the inside:
P1010016.JPG
 
That looks great '68. Since I'm new to this I didn't know if I was working the buffer and da enough to get the best results. I am especially fearful of the wool pad buffer. In reality any damage that was done was by over sanding to a burn thru. I am embarrassed to say this but when I first made this post in the back of my mind I wondered if I was doing cut and buff right and forgot that when I was looking at the shiney fresh clear that it was on a panel that was sanded with 800 grit. So I put my finger to post before I put my brain in gear. Sometimes I really confuse myself. I will work to improve my results with everyone's suggestions. I attached a couple of pics of where I am now.
Thanks,
Don
 

Attachments

  • KIMG1305.JPG
    KIMG1305.JPG
    105 KB · Views: 247
  • KIMG1299.JPG
    KIMG1299.JPG
    107 KB · Views: 238
The trick with using a rotary buffer with twisted wool pad is to never allow the pad to approach a body line or edge when spinning into it. In other words, when you reach the edge of a panel make sure the contact area is rotating away from the edge so there is no chance of it "catching" the edge and burning through.

You are making progress and everything takes time and practice.
The lack of clarity in your reflection is due to scratches still remaining.
 
I know to be fearful of edges and always buff off of edges, but I'm not sure of how long to buff in one section to get it right without burning through. Doyou have a feel for how many passes need to be done before moving to a da? I have been going through the grits from 800 to 3000. I know that there are a ton variables involved.
 
'68 seeing your comment and going back and rereading sprints comment it sounds like you guys use rotary with wool then move to rotary with various foam pads. That's something I haven't had time to try yet. Is there a point were you would us a da and foam pad?
 
Thanks to all for input, I really started going down the wrong cut/buff road. At least no damage done.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
The trick with using a rotary buffer with twisted wool pad is to never allow the pad to approach a body line or edge when spinning into it. In other words, when you reach the edge of a panel make sure the contact area is rotating away from the edge so there is no chance of it "catching" the edge and burning through.
Click to expand...


also, ya dont have to start out at max rpms. you can start at a low rpm to get the feel of it. use the back of your hand to feel the panel.heat is the enemy.think of ashphalt- when cold its pretty hard .add enough heat and it turns to goo. .too much pressure, moving too slow,and tilting the buffer to use the edge of the pad all create heat
let the machine do the work. only use your hands to control the rotary.
 
All good info, I spread compound at 1000 and buff at 1500 not going any faster. What what about your speed for wool pad and foam pads? I need to get some pads to fit the rotary.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top