Cannot buff to good gloss

shine said:
perfect it is junk . all filler car lot polish .
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It does a better job on junk clear than the chemical guys stuff. Went all the grades, 32,34,36, 38, bought the 200.00 random orbit polisher they recommend, their foams, all of it. Ended up getting halfway decent gloss with perfect it.

Thats the one thing you probably have little experience in is working cheap clears.
 
"Thats the one thing you probably have little experience in is working cheap clears. "
seriously dude ? you do know i am 68 years old and have been painting for 50 year right ? i've used every junk clear thats come down the pike . when urethanes first hit the scene they were all junk. kicked off in 2 days rock hard and damn near impossible to buff. some were thick as molasses others were piss water thin . impossible to repair or recoat .
but one thing i do know is cheap junk polishes. 3m has never made a polish that was not full of fillers. polish to glass , deliver , first time washed it looks like shit . in the 70's we used mud in a bucket for polishing lacquers and enamels . worked ok on the urethanes but they just did not want to clear up .

your right . chemical guys doesn't work . dont waste your money on it . use 3m . after all they sponsor nascar , gotta be the best .
 
I've been wanting to try chemical guys, I found Wizards and that system is hands down better than 3m.
 
The only "cheap" clear I will use in a total pinch, and that means someone needs it by Sunday and its Friday afternoon and I have nothing on the shelf to use and that's Sherwin FC720.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
I've been wanting to try chemical guys, I found Wizards and that system is hands down better than 3m.
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Wizards is okay but not nearly as good as the M-100 followed by the Chemical guys as I outlined earlier in this thread.
These pics are without the Menzerna 3800 final polish applied.
Back of Cab.jpg

Tailgate.JPG
 
There are so many products out there I tend to get blurry eyed just looking at the numbers. Ill have to go back and read your post.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
There are so many products out there I tend to get blurry eyed just looking at the numbers. Ill have to go back and read your post.
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Next thing you know you'll end up like me. 4 different cutting compounds, 3 different polishes. All for one vehicle, oh well, I kind of use each one in a specific circumstance because they are all different in small ways. Seeing 68 talk about the new M-100 makes me want to try that but I think I have enough to last me a while, lol.
 
shine said:
"Thats the one thing you probably have little experience in is working cheap clears. "
seriously dude ? you do know i am 68 years old and have been painting for 50 year right ? i've used every junk clear thats come down the pike . when urethanes first hit the scene they were all junk. kicked off in 2 days rock hard and damn near impossible to buff. some were thick as molasses others were piss water thin . impossible to repair or recoat .
but one thing i do know is cheap junk polishes. 3m has never made a polish that was not full of fillers. polish to glass , deliver , first time washed it looks like shit . in the 70's we used mud in a bucket for polishing lacquers and enamels . worked ok on the urethanes but they just did not want to clear up .

your right . chemical guys doesn't work . dont waste your money on it . use 3m . after all they sponsor nascar , gotta be the best .
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I dont care how impotent you may think I am as far as painting, but don't tie me in with being a nascar fan, that crosses the line.

The point was that we all know you do not use junk anymore, and the ones that use them are hacks. Are you saying you think chemical guys polish would have worked on those impossible to buff clears?

I guess in a way you helped make my point, there are clears that get so hard you cant do anything with them. I guess the best thing would be put some slick ceramic on top.
 
For those that don't want to use a bunch of different products, there still are diminishing type compounds such as Meguiars diamond cut that start out course & wear into a polishing compound. Still really need to switch from coarse to finer foam pads for best results though. Can get a good result sometimes quicker, but like with any all in one type product, not as great of a result as full effort from multiple dedicated products. Can be great for small area quick touch ups after sanding a light scratch or what not.

PS, think the 3-m Perfect It is probably a good match for Nascar paint. The fillers in it to covers the scratches it doesn't buff out won't last the number of hours it takes to put 200 to 500 miles on a daily driver, but I guess it'll hold for a few hours.:rolleyes:
 
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Not sure, that was a joke about the time frame 3-m compounds can hide small , not buffed out, scratches with filler. I also frequently make right turns.:p
 
When you guys buff are you wiping the panel off with 710 to clean off any fillers? I find most compounds have some just to help making buffing easier.
 
AAE said:
When you guys buff are you wiping the panel off with 710 to clean off any fillers? I find most compounds have some just to help making buffing easier.
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When I used to use 3M the fillers would come off when you washed the vehicle. Then you'd see the scratches, cuss and go back to buffing. Not to mention the way the 3M Machine Polish would be absolute hell to get off if it dried completely. Spatter was terrible to try and remove.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
When I used to use 3M the fillers would come off when you washed the vehicle. Then you'd see the scratches, cuss and go back to buffing. Not to mention the way the 3M Machine Polish would be absolute hell to get off if it dried completely. Spatter was terrible to try and remove.
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That's why I clean it between passes. Buff then wipe compound off then clean with 700 to check progress. Do that, and you'll know how you're doing.
 
So when you decide you have worked too many hours and need to reclear anything, what is the step.

I call myself an idiot for a reason, but how much of the "good" compounds actually stay on the vehicle? Part of me thought they were just there to lubricate the foam or the wool and not leaving anything behind.
 
If you are wiping the panel clean then nothing should be left behind.

As to the re-clearing a panel are you talking about a sand through or just adding more clear?
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
If you are wiping the panel clean then nothing should be left behind.

As to the re-clearing a panel are you talking about a sand through or just adding more clear?
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The question that started this is we used a cheap clear, it got too hard and wont buff to gloss, you have buffed for days, it wont come back, kind of what the original poster is going thru. It sounds like only the 3m stuff is being blamed to stay on the car, so I would assume you are wax and grease removing and scuffing, like a maroon or gray pad at minimum or are you scuffing the whole car. I always see like the sail panel between the quarters that have that gap painted that you usually cannot get into very well and going too coarse you have a chance to take the base off the edges.
 
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