Chemical Guys & Sanding

I'm a rank amateur, this is my second paint and polish and there are lots of expert opinions about sand and polishing on here, but I followed Shine's recommendations, starting with 800......I used 800 wet myself and worked through all the grits up to 1500 by hand, then 2000 and 3000 with my trizact wet and then did three stages of polishing.........worked great for me.
 

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When I get to that stage on this truck I'm doing sprint, I'll video a fender start to finish and post it on youtube if you want. I won't be using any wool. Don't even own a wool pad.:)
As for when to change grits, look at the scratches as you are doing it. It's subtle but you'll see the scratches change as you are sanding with a particular grit. That and just doing it long enough you start to get a sense of when it's time to switch.
Judging from those pics you posted you have a pretty good grasp on it though. I thought that the inside of your bed looked terrific.

If you take the time to make a video I would definitely watch it. All I have for hands on color sanding experience is what Ive done thus far on my truck, so I have alot to learn. Thanks for the compliment on my bed, on the inside I used only 2000 grit and then buffed. I used fine grits on most of my inside panels to just clean them up a little. On the outside its nice to work through more grits for a better overall finish, but that can be much more challenging.
 
When I get to that stage on this truck I'm doing sprint, I'll video a fender start to finish and post it on youtube if you want. I won't be using any wool. Don't even own a wool pad.:)
As for when to change grits, look at the scratches as you are doing it. It's subtle but you'll see the scratches change as you are sanding with a particular grit. That and just doing it long enough you start to get a sense of when it's time to switch.
Judging from those pics you posted you have a pretty good grasp on it though. I thought that the inside of your bed looked terrific.

Yes, please do post a video when you get there. Sprint is being modest, his finish looks perfect to me.

Thank you everyone for the feedback. I will have to do some trials and see what works for me.
 
I'm a rank amateur, this is my second paint and polish and there are lots of expert opinions about sand and polishing on here, but I followed Shine's recommendations, starting with 800......I used 800 wet myself and worked through all the grits up to 1500 by hand, then 2000 and 3000 with my trizact wet and then did three stages of polishing.........worked great for me.

the metal work and fit/finish on this car is outstanding !
 
I'm a rank amateur, this is my second paint and polish and there are lots of expert opinions about sand and polishing on here, but I followed Shine's recommendations, starting with 800......I used 800 wet myself and worked through all the grits up to 1500 by hand, then 2000 and 3000 with my trizact wet and then did three stages of polishing.........worked great for me.

First off, beautiful work! Second, how did you like the 2000 trizact? any pigtail issues?
 
al lot of pig tails problems are created by heat. running the da too fast can melt removed paint into small balls . you can see them on the paper . how many of you have stopped and picked them off :) over the years i have learned to run my da at about 45-50 lbs of pressure . easier to control and paper last twice as long .
 
There's a lot less heat with a random orbital, especially when run at a low speed.
I get a lot less pig tails than using a DA.
 
I've been searching around and haven't found a thread that addresses my particular situation:

I just bought the CG V32, 34, 36, 38 kit along with the orange, white, and black hexalogic pads. I have a 6" RO sander as well.

From what I've read, for the best finish, I should sand with 1000/1200/1500/2000/2500/3000 (all wet).

Here are my questions:

1) Where can I buy this sandpaper? I would like it to all be the same manuf and purchased from the same source, but if not that's okay too. I also
don't want to buy a huge quantity as I don't sand and polish hardly ever.
2) Which of these grits should be done by hand and which with an interface pad on an RO?
3) After finishing with 3000, should I use the orange pad with 32 or 34?
4) After the orange pad with 32 or 34, go to 36 with white pad?
5) Final step 38 with black pad?
1) Try eagle abrasives, available on Amazon. They have "job packs" that are small quantities. Most jobbers also have wet or dry job packs in 3M 2} I personally like the 1000 or 1200 dry DA as a first step. Much easier to see when the texture and trash is gone. After that you're just refining scratches, and that is usually done wet, either by hand or DA, both work fine. 3) Depending how well you refined each grit will determine what you will have to use for the initial cut. I had problems when skipping from 1000 to 1500 with the 1000 scratches showing when I started buffing. Sanding with 1200 after the 1000 took care of the problem, but don't be surprised if your initial buffing doesn't remove all the scratches. In theory, you should be able to start with an orange pad and 32, but it doesn't always work that way. 4) After the orange pad with 32, I have had good luck with an orange pad and 36.
5) Yes. I would suggest doing 1 panel at a time to help refine your system before doing the whole vehicle.
 
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First off, beautiful work! Second, how did you like the 2000 trizact? any pigtail issues?
The Trizact sanding discs aren't paper exactly, they're more like a mesh fabric. As with anything you have to keep an eye on things and keep the pads clean. I rinse mine often. I have an electric 3M trizact sander and I use it on the lowest speed only.
 
I like the 3000 trizact. Didnt care much for the 1500 trizact though. never tried the 5000 or 8000, maybe on this next project.
 
I like the 3000 trizact. Didnt care much for the 1500 trizact though. never tried the 5000 or 8000, maybe on this next project.

Using the 3000 then 5000 Trizact (or now 8000 Trizact) pretty much eliminates the heavy compounding step. After 5000 the paint has a sheen to it. I'll never go back , it cuts out a lot of work and cleanup mess, with the buffer.
 
i love all this 3k-5k-8k stuff. i've been telling people for 30 years to spend time sanding instead of buffing. i actually kept worn out paper in the old days plus made da disc from denim . damn b/d buffers weighed 15 lbs back then . lacquer wasn't bad but when urethane hit the market it was like buffing concrete .
 
800-1000-1200-1500-2000-3000 is my normal method.

but ill be quite honest, after 1200 im over it and i know I miss scratches going through the rest of the grits. which in the end up costing me more time in the long run chasing scratches.
 
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