Clausen All-U-Need vs Slick Sand?

if I go Bare metal -> SPI epoxy -> filler -> epoxy -> Slick-Sand -> epoxy, does it matter that the Slick-Sand has the moisture and solvent susceptibility? Doesn't encapsulating it between layers of epoxy overcome the issue? Or does Clausen offer greater benefits to Justify the price?

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Emil
 
Evil_Fiz said:
if I go Bare metal -> SPI epoxy -> filler -> epoxy -> Slick-Sand -> epoxy, does it matter that the Slick-Sand has the moisture and solvent susceptibility? Doesn't encapsulating it between layers of epoxy overcome the issue? Or does Clausen offer greater benefits to Justify the price?

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Emil
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That should be fine imho.

Don
 
This may be sac religious on this site but for a newbie like me, the thing that is appealing about all u need or rust defender is that you can actually spray over bare metal. When I cut through epoxy to metal it would be really convenient to have something I could spray and be back to blocking in an hour…. I know epoxy over bare metal is ideal. I’ve heard the smell is almost unbearable though, personally I think slick sand smells horrible too.
 
50Shep said:
This may be sac religious on this site but for a newbie like me, the thing that is appealing about all u need or rust defender is that you can actually spray over bare metal. When I cut through epoxy to metal it would be really convenient to have something I could spray and be back to blocking in an hour…. I know epoxy over bare metal is ideal. I’ve heard the smell is almost unbearable though, personally I think slick sand smells horrible too.
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My personal opinion is the rust defender ok on bare metal is mostly marketing hype for production shops. Always epoxy over bare metal for quality restoration work imho.

Don
 
Evil_Fiz said:
if I go Bare metal -> SPI epoxy -> filler -> epoxy -> Slick-Sand -> epoxy, does it matter that the Slick-Sand has the moisture and solvent susceptibility? Doesn't encapsulating it between layers of epoxy overcome the issue? Or does Clausen offer greater benefits to Justify the price?

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Emil
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Thats why I wanted to get away from Slick Sand, it's not water/solvent proof so any damage down the road can absorb moisture. After trying out All-U-Need on the firewall of the F100 I'll probably just start using SPI epoxy as a build primer, three coats of overnight induced epoxy then spray another three coats a few days later. Kinda hard to justify the price difference of All-U-Need over Slick Sand, it sands easier but not as easy as epoxy.
 
I ran out of slick sand so I bought some all u need to try. Would you guys be nervous spraying all u need on top of slick sand? The tech guide says bare metal and filler are suitable substrates. The surface is a mix of slick sand, glaze, and epoxy all blocked with 180.

I’m blocking the inside bed panel on a 1950 Chevy truck. Very big, flat (warped) surface.
 
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I was trying to stir this stuff, the can got away from me and I spilled about an 8th of it onto my shoes…..I didn’t cry but I wanted to.
 
dhutton01 said:
It is really tough to stir. I use steel pry bar to get it going.

Don
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Same issue with SPI epoxy. The day before I'm going to use it, I flip it upside down and give it a shake. Every time I walk by it, I flip the can and give it a shake. By the time I'm ready to use it, very easy to stir.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
Same issue with SPI epoxy. The day before I'm going to use it, I flip it upside down and give it a shake. Every time I walk by it, I flip the can and give it a shake. By the time I'm ready to use it, very easy to stir.
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That won’t work with Clausen poly primer imho. The bottom sets up much harder than SPI epoxy.

Don
 
get an old mixer blade and weld an old screwdriver on it to extend it . cut the handle off and then use your drill to mix . nothing to it .
no spills or bent stir sticks .
also works great to mix bed liner .
 
I used a mortar mixer type of thing in my drill. It was very effective but somehow caught the can and sloshed 16 oz onto my shoes…. Threw away the shoes and $30 worth of all u need….. o’well, time for new shoes anyways.

And Don is right, the stuff that settles in all u need is like concrete compared to epoxy.
 
The instructions for all u need says that one medium wet coat is equal to three slow passes with the sprayer. Is my gun just not adjusted correctly? If I try even 1 slow pass the stuff puddles and runs on the ground. Im using 3m performance gun
 
50Shep said:
The instructions for all u need says that one medium wet coat is equal to three slow passes with the sprayer. Is my gun just not adjusted correctly? If I try even 1 slow pass the stuff puddles and runs on the ground. Im using 3m performance gun
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How cold is it? I find it can run if it’s cold. I use a Sata poly gun with a 2.5 tip and have to move fairly quick. One pass per coat. I usually apply two coats.

Don
 
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