Clear coating polished aluminum

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My head is starting to spin from all of the things I've been reading on protecting polished aluminum. I thought I'd ask here if anyone has ever tried Universal Clear on their polished aluminum grille (or any other bare polished metal surface)

I've read that it depends on grade of aluminum, that some are optimized for clearcoating while others aren't and if it was originally clearcoated or clear anodized, it's probably a good alloy.

My grill in from a 72 Chevy truck, which was anodized, should be a good canidate then? I read about using oven cleaner to remove anodizing, then just use different sanding grits to polish. That part isn't my problem though. I tried a small section on the back of the grill and wet sanded from 800 up to 2000 and then polished and it looks great, but I need to protect it.

I've found products like POR-15 Glisten PC, Permalac, and even Eastwoods Diamond Clear for bare metal. Just wondering if anyone has any input on using one of the SPI clear coats

Bill
 
i have done it plenty of times. you need to use the spi adhesion promoter (activated) then the universal clear. its good and it holds up really well. i would consider that to be the second best option. the best route is alsa's clear 4 chrome. its a clear specifically for that. i have used it and it bonds like crazy to chrome and polished metals. its not like all the above ones you mentioned. they are all junky. only issue with alsa's stuff is its really expensive.
 
Yes, thanks for that info, and the link to the Alsa products. I wish they sold that stuff in half pints though, or even pints. Not sure I want to spend $120 for a quart and another $35 for the catalyst. I may try the SPI Universal clear. I just don't have any of the adhesion promoter. I just ordered over $600 worth of SPI products and my local distributor is delivering tomorrow. Maybe he'll have some extra adhesion promoter with him
 
the universal or any of the spi clears work just fine but the spi adhesion promoter is a must and you must catalyze it for it to bond well. i quit buying the alsa as well. i just dont have enough of a call for it to order that stuff a qt at a time. the cat always goes bad on me.
 
I'm going to hopefully be able to get a quart of the plastic adhesion promoter today. There is no problem using this on a freshly polished piece of aluminum? The instructions say to use a gray scuff pad along with a sanding paste and it also has no mention of using it on metal. I certainly don't want to scuff up the polished surface, that would kind of defeat the purpose
 
leave the metal polished but it needs to be clean. metal polishes have grease in them so be sure its totally clean. activate the adpro and do one nice coat over it. let dry 20 min then clearcoat it.
 
the adpro uses the reg 2k activator. i believe its a 5:1 mix but look in the tech manual. i think it say in there.
 
Jim C;n76504 said:
the adpro uses the reg 2k activator. i believe its a 5:1 mix but look in the tech manual. i think it say in there.


You are so correct sir :
 
Sounds like you have it under control.

I've had good luck with www.sharkhide.com

I use it on a lot of parts during my builds. Trans cases, aluminum brackets, all plated hardware. I usually spray it throught a touch up gun.

The smell during application will knock your socks off though.
 
Brad, have you used it on polished metal? I saw this in their FAQ

Q: Can you see SHARKHIDE once it's applied?
A: SHARKHIDE is virtually invisible on any metal surface other than a high polished surface. On a high polish finish,
SHARKHIDE when wiped on, can sometimes leave a slight rainbow sheen, like on a soap bubble. This will some what
lessen with a second coat and it also tends to diminish with time.
 
It's never been proven to my satisfaction that clearing polished metal will be OK in the long term. For now, my solution to keeping polished metal nice is... more polish (and carnuba wax).
 
I've never used it on polished metal. I've finished alumimun down to 3000 trizact for a slight sheen and I couldn't see it.

They recommend a cotton rag or cloth diaper to wipe it. On plated fasteners I roll the parts around on a soaked cloth. I like to spray anything larger as I think it dissapears when sprayed. Sometimes when wiping you could see a streak if your didn't keep it wet. It dries almost instantly and will eat rubber gloves in seconds.

It's not cheap either, seems like $120 for a quart. Lasts forever though, my quart is probably 5 years old and I use a little on each build.
 
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