Clearcoat boiling/solvent trapping/micro bubbles?

Sanded with 600 and 800 grit, scuffed with mirka grey
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Unfortunately I don't have production since I moved to euro. Mixing 4:1:1 medium hardener and medium spi reducer
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After 20 mins of waiting I noticed some Bubles/ craters. It's hard to see. And I was realy tired and went home so you all will have to wait until tomorrow to see the final result.
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serjik in your test did you adjust any other settings, or only air? Did you adjust accordingly for the drop in air or keep everything else at your normal settings?
 
sprint_9 said:
serjik in your test did you adjust any other settings, or only air? Did you adjust accordingly for the drop in air or keep everything else at your normal settings?
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Everything else full open, fan full open, fluid full open.dont remember main post did drop in air adjustement
 
I may have missed it, but everyone also needs to be careful about trusting any one gauge. Always check against another gauge, and if there is disagreement, you might have a problem. I had gauges in the junk pile and no two read the same. I tend to trust the digital ones now more than the mechanical ones. generally.
 
crashtech said:
I may have missed it, but everyone also needs to be careful about trusting any one gauge. Always check against another gauge, and if there is disagreement, you might have a problem. I had gauges in the junk pile and no two read the same. I tend to trust the digital ones now more than the mechanical ones. generally.
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Yes. I have 2 iwata gauges, one of them is really beautiful, also got digital from devilbiss , digital from walcom(100$+) and just got adam2 for my sata. All of them are within couple psi range.
 
Still never sprayed clear with my turbine, but most anything I've done with it is usually cranked all the way. May give it a another try later as slower will not atomize as well.
 
jlcustomz said:
Still never sprayed clear with my turbine, but most anything I've done with it is usually cranked all the way. May give it a another try later as slower will not atomize as well.
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Checkout this video. Guy got sent a 5 stage turbine system which is Apollo rebranded as Eastwood to do a review on it. He painted and when you look at final product he reveals it looks exactly like my issue dieback.

 
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At 11:20 what he thinks is orange peel is actually dieback. Goes on smooth as glass and diesback with a consistent texture and loss of gloss.

I also noticed he got the craters which he thought was solvent pop from not waiting long enough with basecoat...
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
None of that makes sense to me. I don't understand how it's possible to trap solvents in the clear in a single coat. @Barry could you explain this? I have never encountered this in my 30 years of spraying.
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You can't, as I posted earlier, if poping happened in first coat, it eliminates about 20 other causes, and now you have a simple choice.
Co2 gassing, undried wax and grease remover or water in lines.
 
texasking said:
Manufacturers post recommended maximum PSI to get 10 PSI at the cap, so they are legal. A piss thin, low solid clear, will spray fine at lower pressures. The high solid stuff is a different story.
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With all respect, strongly disagree. Sata sprays hs and uhs great at manufacturers recommend. Same as devilbiss. As walcom.
 
ebaypdllc said:
At 11:20 what he thinks is orange peel is actually dieback. Goes on smooth as glass and diesback with a consistent texture and loss of gloss.

I also noticed he got the craters which he thought was solvent pop from not waiting long enough with basecoat...
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His dieback would come from one of many variables. Most likely hammering on the basecoat and not waiting long enough before clearing, that is the number one cause of dieback. #2 would be not waiting long enough with the sealer before base, then too much airflow, low quality reducer, too fast an activator for the conditions, too fast a reducer for the conditions, any number of things. Craters are probably from contamination. Fisheyes. When you have solvent pop you know it. It literally pops out almost immediately as you are spraying. It doesn't happen later always in the first few minutes. At least that has been my experience over the years. It also doesn't happen in normal conditions. Only in extreme heat. Trying to deduce anything from an amateur spraying clear isn't going to tell you anything. Re-read what Barry said above. Your issues were not solvent pop.
 
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