color sanding

The Assilex cuts great but I just can't get used to the wafer thinness of the sheets.
 
i kinda like it. you of course always use it on a soft interface pad. any of the eagles discs that are the thin cloth type are not made for cutting things flat. dont expect to cut out orange peel with it. thats not what its for. its for refining scratches or if you paint a panel the bufflex is made to cut the dust nibs out without removing the peel. this way your new panel matches the oem finish.
 
i kinda like it. you of course always use it on a soft interface pad. any of the eagles discs that are the thin cloth type are not made for cutting things flat. dont expect to cut out orange peel with it. thats not what its for. its for refining scratches or if you paint a panel the bufflex is made to cut the dust nibs out without removing the peel. this way your new panel matches the oem finish.
Wow. Didn't know any of that. I use them on a 3m Clean sanding soft disc pads for initial cuts then finish with an interface pad.
Thanks for the insight!
 
another trick is when they start to wear out and cut slow, pull the disc off and reattach it. it will cut like almost new again. because they are so flexible they are only cutting on the hard points of the velcro pad. reattaching relocates those points onto less used abrasive. eagle makes special interface pads for the bufflex which is essentially a soft fuzzy side similar to the disc so the whole disc is cutting but i cant figure them out because the disc doesnt attach to it. it just sits between the panel and the sander. in any case i dont like it. i would rather pull off and reattach.
 
another trick is when they start to wear out and cut slow, pull the disc off and reattach it. it will cut like almost new again. because they are so flexible they are only cutting on the hard points of the velcro pad. reattaching relocates those points onto less used abrasive. eagle makes special interface pads for the bufflex which is essentially a soft fuzzy side similar to the disc so the whole disc is cutting but i cant figure them out because the disc doesnt attach to it. it just sits between the panel and the sander. in any case i dont like it. i would rather pull off and reattach.
What other pearls of wisdom do you have?
 
This is a great thread! Need to summarize all the wisdom onto a page similar the the "Perfect Paint Job" page.
I wish this had started just a few weeks earlier.
Based on previous threads I bought the 3M Trizact "system," 1500, 3000, 8000, before the info about the Buffex and Assilex . Nearly $200 worth of material so I'm using it.
Have 3 panels done so far and it is working well.
I saw Jim's comment about doing a quick pass with cutting compound before polishing and it really made a difference, even after the Trizact 8000.
 
Nothing wrong with the 3000 then 8000. It works fine. You just need to watch Your not overusing the 3000 discs. Youll be sanding away and that stuff will have stopped working but you cant really tell. You end up with areas that are still 1500 scratches without realizing it.
 
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Nothing wrong with the 3000 then 8000. It works fine. You just need to watch Your not overusing the 3000 discs. Youll be sanding away and that stuff will have stopped working but you cant really tell. You end up with arwas that are still 1500 scratches without realizing it.
Truth
 
This is a great post, and thank you, Shine!
I spend a lot of time helping newbies and people with minimal experience trying to better themselves, and in the last 40 years, here are a few facts that I have learned.
Newbies dont sand body filler enough.
Newbies dont sand primer enough.
Newbies dont sand clear enough.
Newbies dont buff enough.

With all the high-end painters that have responded here, I will stay out of this conversation as they are more qualified to answer the different questions.
Im impressed with this whole post, and thanks to all of you as this has been very helpful to many people!.

One thing I would like to point out for newbies is the lack of sanding.
I have this goal on every car I restore; I take pride when four hours after clearing, taking the wife to the garage and say if this was a factory warranty redo, the chev dealer would never buff this car.
I will not paint orange peel and can get cars cleaner than most paint booths. Even with these results, the last 4 or 5 vehicles, I grab 400 or 600 wet and a hand pad, and it takes me about 10 to 13 hours to sand outside of car, than maybe an hour less to convert with 1000 wet and about the same to convert with 1500 wet.
Newbees, this is extreme but pay attention to the hours involved
 
Jim, I was using the pink Assilex with a 3m interface on an OEM black. Man, it pigtailed horribly. Is there a chance that the Velcro on the pad transferred through the thin sheet? I just don't understand what's going on.
 
Only thing that i have caused a pigtail is when you get dirt trapped under the disc. Other than that, all the eagle soft discs i never have an issue with pigtailing. They are all done wet so dirt will be the main culprit, not leaving marks from a clogged or loaded disc. How fresh is the clear? 24hrs or more?
 
Only thing that i have caused a pigtail is when you get dirt trapped under the disc. Other than that, all the eagle soft discs i never have an issue with pigtailing. They are all done wet so dirt will be the main culprit, not leaving marks from a clogged or loaded disc. How fresh is the clear? 24hrs or more?
OEM. The disc was new. It's not the first time. The consistency of the marks is what made me question the interface.
 
all i can say is no i have never had any unusual pigtail issue with the discs. you should be able to to go right from that to blue or 3m trizact 3000 without issue. the assilex discs have some holes in them so be sure you dont have dirt coming out of the velcro on the interface pad. that pad should be clean. i have a dedicated sander i use for wet sanding as well. that sander will never get used for any other work
 
all i can say is no i have never had any unusual pigtail issue with the discs. you should be able to to go right from that to blue or 3m trizact 3000 without issue. the assilex discs have some holes in them so be sure you dont have dirt coming out of the velcro on the interface pad. that pad should be clean. i have a dedicated sander i use for wet sanding as well. that sander will never get used for any other work
Thank you for your time Jim
 
Man I gotta try some of this paper. Pricey but time is money. And good results are worth more money lol. I see they make some starter kits maybe I’ll try one of them. I have a 3/32 that is still new in the box actually. I could dedicate that for strictly cutting clear. I’m sure most of you guys are back to using 3/8 da’s but it should be fine correct? Just slower?
 
I have a 3/32 that is still new in the box actually. I could dedicate that for strictly cutting clear. I’m sure most of you guys are back to using 3/8 da’s but it should be fine correct? Just slower?

Jim corrected me on this some years ago. 3/16 is the way to go. 3/32 will work but it takes a lot longer and you use more paper as well. 3/8 would be way too aggressive. Good for cutting body filler but not color sanding.
 
Ah yeah i had a brain fart I meant most people using 3/16 lol. But I do have the new 3/32 sitting doing nothing. Never even tried it. Back when I bought it that’s what everyone was saying you needed to cut clear lol.
 
Anyone ever use the High Teck foam discs?


I am just curious on them. I imagine they are just a re-labled type deal.

I've used the SMART brand abrasives but IMO they wear out so fast so you end up using more.
 
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@Whitesnake the eagle paper is way cheaper than 3m. remember with any product its not the cost to buy it, its the cost to use it. i find eagle to be about 60-70% cheaper than using 3m.

@orangejuiced86 highteck is like 5star. they are just a private label company who make nothing. the abrasives will be made by some other econo mfg and stuffed in a highteck box. who knows what it is or if its good or not. it may be good, it may be crap. i wouldnt expect much.
 
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