Compressor recomendation

CJK440

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In my garage I currently have a Rand 4000 60 gal single stage compressor. The tank is dated 1991. It has a 5hp motor. It is rated 11.0 CFM @ 90PSI and 12.5 @ 40 and a max pressure of 125. I'm looking to go newer/better.

I came across a 2 stage Kobalt (allegedly made by CH) 60 gallon that has a 3.7hp motor and is rated 11 @ 90, 10.8 @ 100 & 10.7 @ 175, max pressure 175. Most bad reviews on the Kobalt were for issues out of the gate, like leaks, but those who didn't suffer those issues seem pleased.

I will use it for my upcoming vehicle body and paint project, then some air tool use and mostly blast cabinet. I imagine that CFM specs cannot be directly compared considering the significant difference in max pressure between the two. Are specs like these to be believable? Will a lesser HP 2 stage Kobalt disappoint me compared to my almost 30 y/o 5HP single stage IR?
 
In my garage I currently have a Rand 4000 60 gal single stage compressor. The tank is dated 1991. It has a 5hp motor. It is rated 11.0 CFM @ 90PSI and 12.5 @ 40 and a max pressure of 125. I'm looking to go newer/better.
IR?
A true 5hp compressor will usually put out around 15 to 17 CFM @ 90psi.
Compare the amps the motor can draw, it's on the motor plate, that's the true
indication of the motor size. It's the only way to compare motors these days.
You can figure almost 10 amps a HP.
Compressor makers are known for putting little motors on big tanks, watch for that too.
I have a 5hp Eaton that pulls 23 amp a leg for a total of 46 amps.
It puts out 17 cfm @ 90 psi with a 1750 rpm motor. (a slower 1750 motor is better too)
It out performs a lot of 7.5 hp units like the ones Home Depot sells.
So compare everything carefully, and you'll see why some are cheaper.
 
@CJK440 Compressor you are looking at, is at best, a sideways move. No real difference. It's just box store junk. You need CFM. Like JC said above around 17-18 CFM @ 90 psi with an 80 gallon tank is really the minimum. Quality compressor is not going to be cheap but it is essential. Count on spending 2K minimum. Quincy and Champion are good brands. New Ingersoll-Rand are not up to the quality of old but still are pretty good. Don't forget to factor in the cost of wiring it to your box. Depending on how far you are from it that can add some cost and complexity to the install. Buy a brand name, the best you can afford. In the long run you won;t be sorry you did.
 
I agree with JC and Chris .
I tried going with a smaller 60 gallon unit at first but it was a totally frustrating experience. DA wouldn't run more than a couple of minutes and never at full power, the spray guns couldn't atomize correctly, the compressor worked over time and produce a lot of water in the lines, etc.
My current compressor is a 6hp two-stage Porter-Cable that I have had for over a decade. I believe it to be the smallest you can get away with.

Air Compressor 3.JPG
 
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the one pictured is a 3hp . find a compressor rebuild shop . i bought my 5 hp champion in 82 as a rebuilt . i am debating on rebuilding the pump again . was still going strong but i feared it might start making oil . i redid all my lines and installed a dryer so i opted for a new one .
 
@jcclark , my current IR is 15 amp.

Does the extra 50psi of a 2 stage amount to anything all else being equal?

Well, it does make for more stored air but once the compressor kicks on it won't matter.
The make up air volume is what is important.
The higher pressure does cause more water and I guess wear and tear on the pump but
it's usually not a big enough problem to worry about.
The make up air at 175 psi will be a lot lower than at 150 psi so
a lot of people readjust the switch to stop filling at 150 psi.
This will reduce the heat and water too.
My Eaton is on at 120 and off at 150 and only a 60 gallon tank and
it does just fine, even for sanders.
But it does have 2 inner coolers that really help a lot.
It also has a continuous run feature I really like.
When switched to on, it keeps the motor running and kicks the pump on and off as needed.
This is easier on the motor and keeps everything cooler.
I do wish mine was a 80 gallon, I spray a lot of panels with the stored air and leave the compressor
off since it is where I'm spraying. For just a panel or two it's enough.
I turn it back on once done and air is clear again.
 
I've used my old one to restore a couple cars in the past and it seemed to keep up. I'm just a shade tree painter and probably have 1 or 2 jobs at the most in the future. I don't want to invest a ton in a killer compressor that will be underutilized.

There is a Kobalt 80 gallon 2 stage w 15.8 CFM @ 90, 15.7 @100 & 15.6 @ 175. It appears to be this rebadged CH compressor (specs and photos other than paint are identical). https://www.campbellhausfeld.com/80-gallon-2-stage-air-compressor-ce5003-.html
 
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I've used my old one to restore a couple cars in the past and it seemed to keep up. I'm just a shade tree painter and probably have 1 or 2 jobs at the most in the future. I don't want to invest a ton in a killer compressor that will be underutilized.

There is a Kobalt 80 gallon 2 stage w 15.8 CFM @ 90, 15.7 @100 & 15.6 @ 175. It appears to be this rebadged CH compressor (specs and photos (other than paint are identical). https://www.campbellhausfeld.com/80-gallon-2-stage-air-compressor-ce5003-.html
That looks very similar to mine. It meets all of my needs and has for over 10 years. Sees daily use.

Don
 
Does that Kobalt 80 gallon 2 stage seem like a good step up to my old rand?


its only a hair more cfm. 15cfm is a minimum to run most autobody tools, spraygun, sander, etc. if you ok with making just a marginal jump then its probably ok. ch/kobalt isnt going to be a high grade industrial compressor either. while im sure it will work fine for some years, it aint no quincy, saylor beall or anything like that. those are a higher price tag also. i would consider or atleast look into an eaton before you decide. better than ch but not as good as a quincy. good company to deal with also.
 
After this project now, there will be times it won't turn on for weeks or more, definately don't need an industrial unit. If 15 is minimum, then I should expect a difference going from an 11 @ 90 to 15.8@ 90 no?
 
you will see a difference if you were having trouble with your ir not keeping up. if you are just squeaking by with the ir then yes the kobalt will be slightly better......assuming their cfm ratings are not inflated. if the ir is working for you and you paint very infrequently then im not sure i would shell out the money to make such a small cfm jump in the kobalt...but thats me. if the ir isnt getting the job done then yes you need to do something and upgrade.
 
The only task where I find it doesn't keep up is sandblasting.

Assuming specs aren't inflated, is 40%+ cfm not a considerable increase in flow?
 
your answering your own question here. so if the ir does everything you need then it seems you really just want to buy a new compressor just to have a new compressor. lol. nothing wrong with that. cant factor in sandblasting because you can never have a big enough compressor for that task.
 
my blasting rig is diesel powered 185 cfm . thing will wear you out .

sounds to me that he just needs a new pump . but that 3.7 is never going to supply enough cfm .
 
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