Did 700 formula change?

I was using up some older 700 (2 years old), this stuff is great! I clean just about everything with it. Then I switched over to a brand new gallon of 700. First thing I noticed was it smelled different. Was getting a headache, so I put on a VOC cartridge mask. The next day, there was flash rust on the areas that I MIG welded. Not a big deal, it still gets the job done.
 
I was using up some older 700 (2 years old), this stuff is great! I clean just about everything with it. Then I switched over to a brand new gallon of 700. First thing I noticed was it smelled different. Was getting a headache, so I put on a VOC cartridge mask. The next day, there was flash rust on the areas that I MIG welded. Not a big deal, it still gets the job done.

I used it last week on some small bare metal parts and later on an OEM plastic bumper. It seemed to wipe off easier than before, like the lint free towels would be less grabby. And as usual it kills the static on plastic pretty good.
 
i used to mix 10% slow reducer into my 700 to make it a little stronger. i cant do that anymore. it actually separates now. wont mix in. seems like the water content of the 700 went way up. to be honest, i like the way it used to be alot better.
 
Water is 5% less and the formula is stronger by about 7%, bare metal and the different Galva-coats are what we are concerned about.
The testing shows we have a better winner than even before.
 
i used to mix 10% slow reducer into my 700 to make it a little stronger. i cant do that anymore. it actually separates now. wont mix in. seems like the water content of the 700 went way up. to be honest, i like the way it used to be alot better.

Never had tried this before but just mixed 870 with the 700 and mixed by itself.
I did not have any very slow or slow open and I could see where the tail solvents in the slow or very slow might not like certain things in the 700.
By the way, if you were to continue doing this the 860 would be my first choice and 870 second choice as faster reducers are more aggressive than the slower ones but do create other risks by mixing.
I would also go to an additional step of cleaning the metal after with plain 700 or 710 to take care of anything that flashed out just to be safe.
 
I wasn't really sure what happened, whether the 700 changed, or the wipes we used changed, but for us, there seems to be more friction between surfaces and the wipes now. Before we could hang on to the wipes just by pinching one between the thumb and forefinger, now it takes more of a grip or they get stuck to the surface and pulled out of the hand.

Like I said, it could be that our wipes (MDI 93139) changed, too, but it would be nice to find a solution to the problem. MDI does have a wipe one step above what we use, but it's even more $$$ of course.
 
Barry, I trust you that it is better. When I was using it I noticed it doesn't sheet as well when sprayed. It balls up into droplets. Yesterday, I used it to clean a brand new piece of sheet metal. When sprayed, the droplets all pull together into a tight puddle. I thought that was strange...
 
I wasn't really sure what happened, whether the 700 changed, or the wipes we used changed, but for us, there seems to be more friction between surfaces and the wipes now. Before we could hang on to the wipes just by pinching one between the thumb and forefinger, now it takes more of a grip or they get stuck to the surface and pulled out of the hand.

Like I said, it could be that our wipes (MDI 93139) changed, too, but it would be nice to find a solution to the problem. MDI does have a wipe one step above what we use, but it's even more $$$ of course.

I would not blame that on the wipes, I take full credit for that and noticed it change the feel of metal more than before and that was a good thing from my point as far as cleaning.
You always could tell the difference in feel with 700 vs 710 cleaning bare metal.
Saying this I have not noticed our wipes not working, so who knows.

Edit:
I just looked whether this makes a difference or not but at plant, we have the Tork 52-03-37
and we go through about a pallet every 2 months, seem to work well but I don't know whats best or not.
 
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Barry, I trust you that it is better. When I was using it I noticed it doesn't sheet as well when sprayed. It balls up into droplets. Yesterday, I used it to clean a brand new piece of sheet metal. When sprayed, the droplets all pull together into a tight puddle. I thought that was strange...

I hate to say this but I have never sprayed out of a spray bottle to even know.
 
...we have the Tork 52-03-37...
I want to ask my jobber about trying some Tork wipes, but not sure about which ones to try. In other brands, any color in the wipe would bleed out using 700, so we always try to get white wipes. I am guessing the ones you guys use are for wiping up spills more than they are for final prepping, but it's so hard to know for sure.

Anybody else use Tork wipes? What number?
 
I think and let me underline think, we been buying these for 10Years plus and I have a dispenser at home that I use for wiping down parts to changing the oil. At the plant, we have a dispenser in Kitchen, bath, and one about every 25 feet.
I think they are a medium base rag but I do know never have had a lint problem and they don't fall apart when soaked.
Not sure cost but we do buy directly from Tork.
 
I've used the blue Tork wipes. They are supposed to be the low-lint ones, 19-24-79. The grey that we use for wiping our hands in the mechanic shop worked well, except on blasted or little edges they would fuzz. I'm far from an expert, but I haven't noticed any color bleeding.
 
interesting. i have noticed when i spray on the 700, no reducer added, it likes to bead on the surface like there is alot more water in it. it used to sheet across a surface. your saying there is less. very strange. i almost wonder if i got the first few gal in a batch that wasnt totally mixed right. i noticed that the few gallons i got last time was way more yellow/orange. it has always been fairly clear in the past. its yellow enough where it has stained the inside of the plastic jug to a rust color. no biggie really. whatever it is, it does work and do its job. ill find out next time i order it. ill compare and see if its the same.
 
interesting. i have noticed when i spray on the 700, no reducer added, it likes to bead on the surface like there is alot more water in it. it used to sheet across a surface. your saying there is less. very strange. i almost wonder if i got the first few gal in a batch that wasnt totally mixed right. i noticed that the few gallons i got last time was way more yellow/orange. it has always been fairly clear in the past. its yellow enough where it has stained the inside of the plastic jug to a rust color. no biggie really. whatever it is, it does work and do its job. ill find out next time i order it. ill compare and see if its the same.
OK, I confess, LOL.
Jim, you got you the right stuff and now for the confession.
We sell a ton of this and some shops buy case or cases at a time so we were at the 1200 gallon mark and the tech line caught on fire, I swear I had 200-300 calls asking if this was bad due to the color from shops that had used it for years calling just to make sure it was good.
At that point, I lowered the one additive a few points of kill the color and it weakened it a little but still a big improvement for some metals.
So the color over the last couple of thousand is not as amber and it freed up the tech line but this is why I love the tech line.
Although the color made no difference to me, I found out it should have and I understand why now.
 
barry, i had a spare minute in the shop this morning to do a test. you said you mixed 870 into the 700 and it mixed right in. i just tried that with 860 and 870 on the batch i have and it was like pouring oil in water. you cant get the two to mix together at all. i have been mixing 10% slow reducer into the 700 for probably 7-8 years to make it a little stronger. all of a sudden that doesnt work anymore. figured it out when the o-rings in my pump sprayer turned to mush. i guess because they were in contact with pure reducer that didnt mix in.
 
Makes no sense, nothing in either to chemically to react, Not sure why it worked here?
I have no answer???
 
not saying there is anything wrong with the stuff i have here. im sure its perfectly fine. like i said, it works like 700 should. i know you didnt make the stuff with the intention that the end user will put reducer in it. its just something i have always done and now noticed i cant do that anymore so when the op posted this thread i figured i would chime in on my noticed change. when you said it mixed into it for you then that left me scratching my head so i needed further investigation lol.
 
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